Simple Wiring Question

Ok I got it running on 12 volts but now I'm trying to bring my generator into the picture. I have converted the generator over to 12 volts with new 12 volt field coils and I have a 12 volt voltage regulator, the one that is built into the cutout. How is this wired up with my current setup?

Here's what I have. Yellow wire from starter post to right junction box post. Red wire from that same junction box post to key switch. One red wire from positive coil to other side of key switch. One blue wire from negative side of coil to distributor. It runs like this.

On the ampmeter I have a yellow wire and a yellow wire with the black tracer. The yellow wire with the black tracer goes to the generator cutout. Now which side of the junction box should the other yellow wire go to? On the ampmeter I just need to switch my wires around the other way from the old 6 volt wiring correct?

With the old 6 volt wiring Ford had a short black wire that ran to the coil. I'm not using that now and that's what's throwing me off.

Any help would be appreciated. I hate to burn another set of points up. lol :D
 
A simple way to get your car running is to locate a cut off ignition cable. You need the end that screws into the distributor. Put a clip lead on the end of the wire. Clip it to one of the primary connections on the coil. Connect the other primary connection on the coil direct to battery power. If all else is well the car should start. In order to shut the engine off disconnect the clip lead.

This is a handy tool to carry with you on the road. If there is an electrical fault in the wiring, especially in the ignition key and pop-out cable you can use this tool to bypass everything.

Tom Endy
 
I have a different distributor, can't use the ignition cable that screws into the old distributor.
 
Ok here's what I did. It still runs like this but showing discharge on the ampmeter when its running. I did adjust the third brush on the generator. If I switch my wires on the ampmeter and turn the key on its showing almost a full charge before I even hit my starter. Here's a diagram of how its wired. The only thing I didn't include in the diagram is the electric fuel pump but that's working fine. This is a 12 volt voltage regulator built into the cutout.

12voltwiring.jpg


What am I doing wrong or need to check to get it charging correctly?
 
I'm thinking now that my problem might be that I didn't polarize the generator after converting it over to 12 volt. That's the only thing I can come up with as of now. Will check into that tomorrow.

If that is the case all I should have to do is unhook the voltage regulator and touch the hot wire to the post coming out of the generator case for a second or two and it should be polarized correctly?
 
LeroyM said:
I'm thinking now that my problem might be that I didn't polarize the generator after converting it over to 12 volt. That's the only thing I can come up with as of now. Will check into that tomorrow.

If that is the case all I should have to do is unhook the voltage regulator and touch the hot wire to the post coming out of the generator case for a second or two and it should be polarized correctly?
Click to expand...

Correct.
 
Still no luck. I went out and tried to polarize the generator. It still shows discharge when running or it shows full charge when I switch the wires on the ampmeter and turn the key on.

Is there anything I'm missing in my wiring diagram? This is a 12 volt voltage regulator built into the cutout, the one from funprojects. The coil I'm using has a built in resistor.

Any ideas?
 
Engine OFF, lights ON, what does the meter show? Then start the engine and turn on the lights, ANY CHANGE in the meter reading?
 
I haven't even wired the lights in or changed the bulbs yet to 12 volt. The only thing I got drawing from the battery is the electric fuel pump. With the key off and everything wired the ampmeter shows 0. If i turn the key on it shows +15 when it should be showing discharge. If I change the wires on the ampmeter it shows discharge when the key is on or when running.
 
Is the new EVR cutout labeled for 12 volts negative ground?

If you remove the output wire from the cutout, what does the meter show when the key is on, but the engine is OFF?
 
Key off wire hooked or unhooked to voltage regulator, ampmeter shows 0.

Key on wire hooked or unhooked to voltage regulator, ampmeter shows discharge -15.

Key on and motor running with wire hooked or unhooked to voltage regulator, ampmeter shows discharge -15.
 
If you have the switch turning the power off and on, I'd start there. From what you say as soon as the key is on even with no lights/horn connected it draws 15 amps. That's much more than the coil should draw, so there may be a short, like the switch terminal touching the gas tank? Unhook the power wire to the coil and turn the key on and see what it reads. Actuall if you just slip a piece of paper in the points you can read the meter. No need to unhook the coil power wire first.
 
The only thing drawing when I turn the key on is the electric fuel pump. On one side of the key switch I have a hot wire by its self that comes from the outgoing ampmeter wire. On the other post of the key switch I have one hot wire that runs to the fuel pump, and one wire that runs to the positive side of the coil.
 
I went back out and unhooked the hot wire going from the fuel pump to the key switch. With the key on it shows 0 on the ampmeter. With the key on and running it still shows 0 on the ampmeter. I also tried putting the hot wire from the fuel pump on the same side as the hot wire from the outgoing ampmeter but that makes the fuel pump run with the key off or on so I know that's not right.

On the ampmeter I assume the left side is negative and the right side is positive correct?

I'm all out of ideas. Only thing I'm thinking now is take the generator and voltage regulator and have them tested. Any thoughts?
 
I am running 12 volt with original generator. I use the Fun Projects cut out style regulator and it has been trouble free for four years .Other than the light bulbs and horn I changed the coil for a high performance coil. NO changes were necessary to the wiring. It looks perfectly original and I think its the way to go. Fun Projects sells the regulator in positive or negative ground. I am using the positive ground version.
 
FUEL PUMP what else non standard do you have in there?

Take out the regulator and put back in the cut out to see if the regulator is bad.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top