I bought this at a swap meet and the fellow thought his dad used it on flatheads to remove valves. The feet have what look like the ends of the flathead spring compressors. When the slide is pulled back, the feet can touch. When moved forward the feet are forced apart. I can't tell what use the small flat piece even does. Has anyone used this tool? I would think one has to press the valve guide down to remove the keeper before forcing the guides up.
Valve removal slide hammer?
- Thread starter Juergen
- Start date
Yes, I also have this tool and I've used it a few times. Once you remove the horse shoe clip holding the guide in place, you use the forks in the closed position on the guide.
It's been years since I've used it, but if I recall correctly, the bottom fork rest on the top of the lifter boss and the top fork goes between the spring and catches on of the ridges of the valve guide.
When the forks are "closed", that round-ish metal ram on the end of the rod slams into the bottom portion of the forks, forcing the forks open and pushing the guide assembly out the top of the block.
It takes a few whacks with the weight, put the tool works quite well. If I recall, it was made by All-Power. All-Power also made a Chinese-finger type of tool that used gripping power and brute force to pull the horse clips out really easily. I'd assume these tools were sold as a set. I also have that tool and it works very well.
Juergen, I re-read your post. Are you talking about the small flat area on top of the forks? I've used that to help position the forks and using a hard rubber mallet, drive them onto the guide.
Be mindful where you are using it. A few times, the valve assembly came shooting out of the block with some force. You don't want to cause any dings in any sheet metal near by.
It's been years since I've used it, but if I recall correctly, the bottom fork rest on the top of the lifter boss and the top fork goes between the spring and catches on of the ridges of the valve guide.
When the forks are "closed", that round-ish metal ram on the end of the rod slams into the bottom portion of the forks, forcing the forks open and pushing the guide assembly out the top of the block.
It takes a few whacks with the weight, put the tool works quite well. If I recall, it was made by All-Power. All-Power also made a Chinese-finger type of tool that used gripping power and brute force to pull the horse clips out really easily. I'd assume these tools were sold as a set. I also have that tool and it works very well.
Juergen, I re-read your post. Are you talking about the small flat area on top of the forks? I've used that to help position the forks and using a hard rubber mallet, drive them onto the guide.
Be mindful where you are using it. A few times, the valve assembly came shooting out of the block with some force. You don't want to cause any dings in any sheet metal near by.
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petehoovie
Well-known member
Ken/Alabama
Well-known member
I have a couple of those TCM jacks. They work great.
Jack E/NJ
Well-known member
No specials tools needed. Once the guide clip is removed in valve closed position, you can also start slipping metal spacers or shims between the lifter & base of the whole valve assembly.
Then turn the crankshaft to use the cam lobe to push the assembly out. Place a coffee can or pillow over the valve head just in case the assembly suddenly lets loose and shoots out the bore like a cannon. .
Then turn the crankshaft to use the cam lobe to push the assembly out. Place a coffee can or pillow over the valve head just in case the assembly suddenly lets loose and shoots out the bore like a cannon. .
No specials tools needed. Once the guide clip is removed in valve closed position, you can also start slipping metal spacers or shims between the lifter & base of the whole valve assembly.
Then turn the crankshaft to use the cam lobe to push the assembly out. Place a coffee can or pillow over the valve head just in case the assembly suddenly lets loose and shoots out the bore like a cannon. .
I guess it depends on the condition on the motor you are tearing down. If it's rusted or seized solid, your shim plan won't work.
Also, as we do this as a hobby, but just like today, mechanics were always looking for the fastest way to do things. If a tool shaved an 1 hour off a job, heck yeah it was worth it.