88 Ford Ranger

Was sent some photos to try and find out how and hopefully why an IAC MOTOR is remote mounted. I have never seen this ... :confused:

After my OLD GUY HAPPY HOUR (zzz), I will try and discover how this works ...
 
KULTULZ said:
Was sent some photos to try and find out how and hopefully why an IAC MOTOR is remote mounted. I have never seen this ... :confused:

After my OLD GUY HAPPY HOUR (zzz), I will try and discover how this works ...
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I worked at Ford Powertrain Engineering engine calibration for Ranger, Bronco II and Aerostar in '88.
That's the way they did it on the 2.3L Ranger EFI. It's the only one I've seen like that in all my years at Ford.

Sal
 
scicala said:
I worked at Ford Powertrain Engineering engine calibration for Ranger, Bronco II and Aerostar in '88.

That's the way they did it on the 2.3L Ranger EFI. It's the only one I've seen like that in all my years at Ford.

Sal
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THANX! for that Sal ...

Trying to figure out how and why ... :confused:
 

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KULTULZ said:
It sounds to me ... :rolleyes: ... as once it comes off the enrichment circuit (cold start), she goes lean.

I am a$$-u-me(ing) it is an EFI SYSTEM with a SGL THROAT THROTTLE BODY. It is EEC-IV OBD-II. The ECM needs to be scanned for any possible code(s).
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:eek:​

OBD-I dumba$$ ... :rolleyes:

Getting hard to find qualified help ...

The only thing I know is to scan the ECM. At least that should give you some indication as to where to start.

I have an early scanner but it hasn't seen day-lite for twenty years (similar to my sex life).

FORD SERVICE LITERATURE is $$$, even used. I don't know if a HAYNES MANUAL would help you through diagnostics. Being off-road and if near a salvage yard, you could convert it back to carb.

Maybe browse through this site - https://www.therangerstation.com/

I am still trying to figure out why for the offset IAC. Must have been in the drunk tank during that period ...
 
KULTULZ said:
:eek:​

OBD-I dumba$$ ... :rolleyes:

Getting hard to find qualified help ...

The only thing I know is to scan the ECM. At least that should give you some indication as to where to start.

I have an early scanner but it hasn't seen day-lite for twenty years (similar to my sex life).

FORD SERVICE LITERATURE is $$$, even used. I don't know if a HAYNES MANUAL would help you through diagnostics. Being off-road and if near a salvage yard, you could convert it back to carb.

Maybe browse through this site - https://www.therangerstation.com/

I am still trying to figure out why for the offset IAC. Must have been in the drunk tank during that period ...
Click to expand...

Thanks Kultulz, that ranger site has a lot of info. If i could find a used 1987 carb i would do that in a minute. Thinking it would need the manifold also.
 
I don't have the design progress sequence for light truck.

Pre-1988 may be a throttle body (CFI/TBI) or possibly a feedback carb. I don't know off-hand how far you would have to go back for true carbureted fuel and ignition.

Have you thought of trying to pull codes with that other page I posted?
 
I noticed on that ranger site that 87 had a 2bb carb I may keep my eyes open at the local yards for prospects. I have a code reader for later vehicles but am in the dark for those early ones. thanks for all the codes and everything, if i find someone local who will check for me, that will be great. Not looking to spend much on "old rusty"
 
To convert to a carburetor will be quite ivolved, work and money wise. You will need a a pre- EFI distributor along with a carburetor and manifold. You'll also have to take the ECM out of the picture and eliminate the high pressure fuel pump and use an electric pump with regulator to get the correct pressure for a carburetor. Among other things I'm sure.
Just my opinion, but it's best to repair the problem with your current set up. There should be a garage around that can pull codes from an OBD I system.
There is a way to get codes without a scan tool, but I forgot how to hook it up. It involves using an analog volt meter and counting the number of times the needle sweeps the scale. Sorry I can't remember the details.
Also, might try checking the fuel pressure at the shrader valve on the fuel rail, or checking out the MAP sensor system. I have seen the vacuum line to the MAP sensor plugged with carbon before, where it attaches to the intake manifold.

Sal
 
scicala said:
To convert to a carburetor will be quite ivolved, work and money wise. You will need a a pre- EFI distributor along with a carburetor and manifold. You'll also have to take the ECM out of the picture and eliminate the high pressure fuel pump and use an electric pump with regulator to get the correct pressure for a carburetor. Among other things I'm sure.

Just my opinion, but it's best to repair the problem with your current set up.
Click to expand...

Also my thoughts exactly. The only way I would attempt it is to have a correct donor(s).

There is a way to get codes without a scan tool, but I forgot how to hook it up. It involves using an analog volt meter and counting the number of times the needle sweeps the scale. Sorry I can't remember the details.
Click to expand...

Here is a TECH ARTICLE to guide you - https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/testing-eec-iv-equipped-engines/
 
:confused:

531263

This is driving me nuts ...

The IAC on the air box ...

There is a smaller hose that runs to the TB in some way?
 
oldbugger said:
I noticed on that ranger site that 87 had a 2bb carb I may keep my eyes open at the local yards for prospects. I have a code reader for later vehicles but am in the dark for those early ones. thanks for all the codes and everything, if i find someone local who will check for me, that will be great. Not looking to spend much on "old rusty"
Click to expand...

Read thru this thread- https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/88-2-3l-wont-idle.113090/

Maybe it will help in some way. It has to be scanned for codes, ain't no way around it. You are working blind without a scanner.

Ford Ranger 4-Cylinder Engines -

https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/ford-ranger-4-cylinder-engines/
 
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"Here is a TECH ARTICLE to guide you - https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...ipped-engines/"

That's the analog volt meter method I was talking about. Thank you KULTULZ !

Sal
 
I think it would be much simpler to diagnose and repair (modify) what you have as to go to a swap. You would need a 1974 donor (carb - points) at the least.

Keep us posted.
 
warmed old rusty up today, after checking the vacuum on the top of the throttle body, which was normal. Also cleaned some of the throttle body by opening it wide and spraying what i could. it seemed to run a bit better but still acts like it would if it was a carb with a bad accelerator pump. I will keep digging, maybe take off the throttle body and give it a proper cleaning
 
oldbugger said:
warmed old rusty up today, after checking the vacuum on the top of the throttle body, which was normal. Also cleaned some of the throttle body by opening it wide and spraying what i could. it seemed to run a bit better but still acts like it would if it was a carb with a bad accelerator pump. I will keep digging, maybe take off the throttle body and give it a proper cleaning
Click to expand...

You know you are beating yourself to death, don't you?

$33.00 - https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3145-Ford-Digital-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW?tag=atomicindus08-20

A whole lot cheaper than a parts cannon ...
 
Thanks, yes I am probably beating myself to death, but me and technology rarely can get along. I will take your advice once I'm black and blue. Thanks again
 
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