Model A Wheel Alignment

Sector......not sure what I was thinking lol Regardless you have a very tight 7 tooth. I have looked at several seven toot cars from fellow club members and I can say yours is tighter than any I have seen.

Ron
 
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I installed a rebuilt F-100 steering box a few hundred miles ago. Since then the steering degenerated some, so I checked and adjusted the toe-in to spec. It helped the wandering but I still had too much steering wheel play. So...I pulled the cotter key from the pitman arm bolt and forced the castle nut down to the next hole. I was surprised at being able to do that since I had torqued that puppy pretty well the first time. The thing is, there is some tooth set-in at that connection and as such, even if it is just a tiny amount (un-discernible by feel) it is magnified by the steering link geometry. Heavily tightening that clamp provided the most change and brought the steering-wheel play into a normal range.
 
A bent axle will cause your car to pull left or right just how much depends on how much the axle is bent. Check your castor at each king pin. You can find info on how to do this on this sight.one side may be spot on but the other slightly off. Slightly is enough for the car to pull. If that’s the problem straighten the axle or replace it.
 
When checking toe in, I prefer to check the front, 6 inches up, and then roll the car so that point is 6 inches up at the rear. This will take slightly out of true wheels out of the equation, since you are measuring at the same points. If not rolling the car, you really need to jack the car up first and scribe a centerline on each tire, to measure from.
 
A saying that comes to mind often: "The devil is in the details, guyz".

Our coupe rolls straight and steers and stops as it should. Yet, there is what appears to the eye as about 3/4" play in the steering wheel when the car is on the ground. If I jack the car up, with a careful eye, I can see the wheels move a bit with less than the 3/4" movement, probably half that much. Once I caught on to this, (when I worked on the front end) I can also see it when traveling down a smooth road.

I can only hypothesize a reason, and that is that the tires give a little more as the turn is initiated???

I'm not familiar with the 7 tooth box, but if one can see play when looking at the sector and worm and cannot adjust that out, I doubt you'll get down to the amount of play that a professional's overhaul would achieve. I have read that the worm is intentionally designed with increasing gap in the worm gear as it leaves dead center and approaches the worm's ends. This is to prevent binding when at maximum turning radii???
 
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