Brake drum turning question

ChicagoBob

ChicagoBob

Senior Member
I have a '30 with cast iron drums. When I had one of my front hubs replaced (by mail), the swaging of the wheel studs apparently warped the drum. When the brakes are cold, there is quite a pulse as the car is slowed, but once they warm up, the pulse almost disappears. I have two questions: Would having the drum machined improve this situation? Also, are modern shops equipped to turn drums with the hubs attached?
 
ChicagoBob said:
... Would having the drum machined improve this situation? Also, are modern shops equipped to turn drums with the hubs attached?
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I'm in the middle of installing cast iron drums too. I'm told that all new drums should be turned after attachment to the hubs, since, even if the drums are not warped, they are not necessarily exactly concentric on with the bearing races after swaging. I've also heard that the fronts are fairly standard, but that you'll have a harder time finding a shop that can handle model A rear hubs.
 
I believe on the rears if you can find a shop equipped with tooling to machine early VW's they will be able to turn the rears. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Paul in CT
 
A warped wheel can push a drum out of round also, on my brothers car too much powdercoating in 1 area of wheel to drum contact changed the drum when the wheel was bolted up
 
Kurt in NJ said:
A warped wheel can push a drum out of round also, on my brothers car too much powdercoating in 1 area of wheel to drum contact changed the drum when the wheel was bolted up
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Kurt, you have posted about this in the past. First time I read it, I checked my wheels and sanded the coating off the mating surfaces. This fixed the pulsation I was feeling. I felt that only one wheel was probably the culprit, but did them all anyway.

Thanks.

Joe
 
Luckily I had a spare rear axle in car when bought.

I was able to bolt drum to axle and mount it in a normal centre lathe.
 
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