Gas shut-off leaks-I think

Russell Reay

Well-known member
My shutoff valve looks like all the ones in the catalogs, so I assume it is a late model replacement for the original. I shut it off faithfully after each trip (in and out of the garage) but the carb is still covered with gas, and it drips on the floor. I am inclined to get a hardware store ball valve with brass fittings to the flared gas line. Les Andrews says the valve is 1/2" NPT, but mine measures about 0.550" male thread OD, or closer to 3/8" NPT. Do I have an oddball or is Les wrong? I prefer to have the correct replacement in hand before removing the leaker.
 
Russell to be sure it is the shutoff that leaks disconnect the gas line at the carburetor and put a can under it and test it.
 
My shutoff valve looks like all the ones in the catalogs, so I assume it is a late model replacement for the original. I shut it off faithfully after each trip (in and out of the garage) but the carb is still covered with gas, and it drips on the floor. I am inclined to get a hardware store ball valve with brass fittings to the flared gas line. Les Andrews says the valve is 1/2" NPT, but mine measures about 0.550" male thread OD, or closer to 3/8" NPT. Do I have an oddball or is Les wrong? I prefer to have the correct replacement in hand before removing the leaker.
Try tightening the nut a bit behind the on off handle! Test as stated above first. or remove carb and check that all jets etc are tight along with the float adjustment.
 
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I have replaced my shutoff valve twice over the last few years due to internal leakage when closed. $25 in fittings and a ball valve from Ace hardware installed on an extra fuel line equals no more shutoff valve issues. I did buy a flair kit from HF for $10...


I leave the tank fuel valve open and use the ball valve as the main shutoff. I also run the carb "dry" when parked inside the garage.
 

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Great photo. Per Joop's suggestion I discovered that the valve does, in fact, leak. I think I will use your suggestion, and I already have a flaring tool.
 
Great photo. Per Joop's suggestion I discovered that the valve does, in fact, leak. I think I will use your suggestion, and I already have a flaring tool.


Good luck measure twice then one more time before you cut the line because it has to fit spot on as there is no way to manipulate the distance. I cut the line on the curved side (where I wanted the valve located) and then measured the distance to the factory valve (straight line = easy measuring) but also visually checked the distance before cutting the second time (the ball valve displaced pipe) I installed the valve to rotate towards the direction of flow when on.



Works good and you can only see the valve if you look under the dash.
 
I have replaced my shutoff valve twice over the last few years due to internal leakage when closed. $25 in fittings and a ball valve from Ace hardware installed on an extra fuel line equals no more shutoff valve issues. I did buy a flair kit from HF for $10...


I leave the tank fuel valve open and use the ball valve as the main shutoff. I also run the carb "dry" when parked inside the garage.

I did similar, I got tired of replacng the leak proof valves the vendors sell.

527786
 

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If you mean the part of the valve that screws into the tank? Les is
wrong. Not 1/2" npt. It's either 3/8" or 1/4"
 
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