56 Victoria brake upgrade HELP PLZ

G

gpezon

Junior Member
Im new to the group and have a 56 Farilane Vic. It has sloppy factory power steering, unit was rebuilt. A way to get it to stop well, also getting rid of the single master cyl. Car has factory 15 with hubcaps and we love that look.

1.My ideas are the power boosted dual cyl, and front 11" discs with GM caliper kits you see out there. They do not list a proportioning valve. Why, or what are you using? It also states it moves the wheel out a 1/2 inch ea side, problem for anyone?
2. Do granada spindles really cause bump steer?
3. Slickest not cheapest way to get rid of the sloppy steering
Thanks so much
Gary
 
If your scroll down a bit in this forum you’ll find a couple current discussions on both brakes and steering. Some of it might be helpful.

For the steering, properly rebuilt it should be fine. That’s pretty much everything in the steering system. Some of the rebuilt parts are not what they should be. Lares Corporation comes up as a company people have had good reports on. Red Head steering has a good reputation on the steering boxes.

Brake conversions are all over the board. Some seem to work fine, others are questionable. Some are just a big question mark. The best recommendation I’ve seen for brakes is Prestige Thunderbird. Another gentleman I know has those on his 56. He lives close, went over and saw them, and has been happy with the results. Very experienced car guy and racer who knows the difference.

Got a picture? We all like pictures.
 
As far as the Granada spindles, I did the conversion on my 54 and no bump steer. Very happy with the conversion (I did it myself)
 
One thing to check on the power steering: Is there a cotter pin through the drag-link assembly (near the PS control-valve)?
If that cotter pin is missing, someone may have screwed the control valve sleeve onto the drag rod at the wrong spot allowing too big of a gap between the end of the drag rod and valve-spool stop. You'll never get the slop out until you find the hole thru the drag rod and screw the control-valve sleeve in enough to mate with that hole. (there is a mating hole for that thru the control-valve sleeve). When you get them mated, put a cotter pin thru it and tighten the control-valve sleeve end clamp.
Lube the heck out of that control valve sleeve with an axle-grease pressure gun till the grease oozes out of the cover. There should be a factory grease fitting at the top of that control-valve sleeve.
 
KULTULZ said:
Is the car manual brake or power assist?
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Manual single master(scary) original drums, ha s had new wheel cylinders, shoe, and machined drums.
Also I think I know where you are going with the steering, The hydraulics are just an assist and the play or slop could be in the gear box. is that what you were thinking? Does it adjust from the top with the bigger nut?
Thanks again Gary
 
Got a picture? We all like pictures.[/QUOTE]
It must be because I'm new I do not have image permissions, so cannot put an album or profile pic up. If you know a moderator have them flip it on for me and I would put some pics of my black/white 56 up.
 
Well ...

Yes, the box is adjustable but has to be disconnected from the linkage(s) before attempting. This will prevent a false reading.

There can also be a lot of slop in the linkages. You really need the SHOP MANUAL to go through the process if you have never done it before (can be purchased reasonably on CD).

How far do you want to go into detail ($$$) on a FRT DISC CONV.?

Power assist with a dualing MC? Are you concerned with the appearance or GM and/or off-shore parts will suffice? There are kits to allow the use of the stock spindles and not go through the GRANADA SPINDLE drill
 
KULTULZ said:
Well ...

Yes, the box is adjustable but has to be disconnected from the linkage(s) before attempting. This will prevent a false reading.

There can also be a lot of slop in the linkages. You really need the SHOP MANUAL to go through the process if you have never done it before (can be purchased reasonably on CD).

How far do you want to go into detail ($$$) on a FRT DISC CONV.?

Power assist with a dualing MC? Are you concerned with the appearance or GM and/or off-shore parts will suffice? There are kits to allow the use of the stock spindles and not go through the GRANADA SPINDLE drill
Car linkage has been done with ball joints and bushings, the gear box was overlooked. I will investigate that further. The rag joint has also been overlooked, I assume it could be pretty tired.
On the brakes saving money is not a big concern. I love quality stuff and hate China, haha. My goals are a booster that fits a 56 Fairlane Vic with little hassle. Also not moving the wheels outward. These kits claim it moves the hub face out 1/2 inch per side. I like the idea of keeping a stock spindle.
Click to expand...
 
The rag joint has also been overlooked, I assume it could be pretty tired.
Click to expand...

Your steering has a rag joint (coupler)?

Are you able to take photos and post?

The slight movement outwards of the rotor in necessary for the caliper to fit within the stock wheel (offset). I don't think it would be noticeable.

It would not affect the rear wheels.
 
The kit I put on my ‘bird years ago only moved the wheel out maybe 1/8”. I’m sure the 55-57 Thunderbird suppliers still use it. It used a Granada rotor with the hub turned down so the early wheels with the small center opening would fit. A small tapered sleeve on the spindle, the Granada rotor with the correct bearings. Custom brackets bolted on, early Fairlane calipers. It’s still on after 23 years. It’s one of the reasons I recommended Prestige above. If money isn’t a big concern, step up for the Wilwood brakes, both rotors a calipers.

Last month I went thru a rebuild on a friends 56 Nomad with the GM metric calipers. I wasn’t impressed with that kit when I put it on, and I wasn’t any more impressed when we rebuilt it. And you can bet they sell a lot more Tri-5 Chevy kits than 56 Fords. The supplied combination valve was what led to the total rebuild, and the damage caused by the dragging brakes when it failed. Not surprisingly the replacement unit was different from the original one. I guess they learned. Anyway, adding really good balanced front disc is a lot more than just throwing parts in a box and shipping them. Those GM calipers were widely used and are readily available. That probably has more to do with them being in the kits than them being the best answer for a different application.

56 Fords didn’t use a rag joint. So don’t be surprised you can’t find it, and be more surprised if you can.
 
56 Fords didn’t use a rag joint. So don’t be surprised you can’t find it, and be more surprised if you can.
Click to expand...

I surely hope someone didn't perform a CHI-COM integral steering box mod.

On a CHERRY SURVIVOR ... :(

PRESTIGE conversion kit? You got the website? Is it a 4-piston caliper?
 
KULTULZ said:
Your steering has a rag joint (coupler)?

Are you able to take photos and post?

The slight movement outwards of the rotor in necessary for the caliper to fit within the stock wheel (offset). I don't think it would be noticeable.

It would not affect the rear wheels.

I'm a dumb Chevy guy, Haha. I have to look into this and was just assuming it used a rag joint.

The reason i was concerned on moving tops of front wheels out is the car is lowered a bit. The car is in my building and i plan on jacking it up and digging into it more.

Also for some reason the moderator did not give me permission on my acct to post pics... so if u know him maybe he can fix that for me. I would be happy to share car pics, and detail stuff which allows for better input by all
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Nothing wrong with being a Chevy guy, I’ve got one of those too. And I’ve spent as much time on that 56 Nomad as I’ve spent on my cars. Once sorted out, the Ford will drive very similar to a tri 5 chev. And you already know how to work under the hood with the distributor at the back.

https://prestigethunderbird.com/

I had one of the Prestige Thunderbird soft tops, but that’s my only personal experiences with them. They are well regarded in the Thunderbird community. My acquaintance with their brake kit stepped up for the Wilwood disc and calipers. Whether that was an option or his doing I don’t know. His involvement goes way back, and even though he doesn’t use brakes much at Bonneville or on dirt tracks, he has access to all the necessary knowledge.
 
gpezon said:
I'm a dumb Chevy guy, Haha. I have to look into this and was just assuming it used a rag joint.
Click to expand...

Atually, the steering system is GM (BENDIX). It was sold for most car lines.

So if you look under a same period CHEBY, you will see it also.

The reason i was concerned on moving tops of front wheels out is the car is lowered a bit. The car is in my building and i plan on jacking it up and digging into it more.
Click to expand...

Well then, you definitely don't want the GRANADA SWAP as the spindle will lower it another two inches. Is it actually lowered or are the springs sagging?

Also for some reason the moderator did not give me permission on my acct to post pics... so if u know him maybe he can fix that for me. I would be happy to share car pics, and detail stuff which allows for better input by all
Click to expand...

You have to have a minimum number of posts to be BONAFIDE here. Send them to me - KULTULZ@ yahoo.com - and I will post them for you.

OH! -

If you are suffering from the dreaded BOWTIE FEVER there are counseling and treatment plans here to help you with withdrawal ...
 
Mike ... er ... Mr. Mike ...

I don't see a conversion kit in his catalog. It uses the K-H designed changeover, correct?
 
Now this is just me as I am special ... :rolleyes: ... and very particular ...

This would be the ultimate (not really) front disc foundation brake conversion -

https://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/B...ear=1956&make=Ford&model=Fairlane&option=Base

The ultimate would be to find a pair of original calipers off a FORD with the correct casting nos. on them. K-H sold this system to FORD-GM-MOPAR and AMC.

I would think most of these other changeover kits use off-shore parts.

The advantage is the 4-piston calipers will perform much nicer than either a sliding or floating caliper. Kits using GM calipers also may use the metric design (low drag) which requires a quick take-up MC which either they do not tell you or supply a STD MC which will give you a low pedal and stretched seat covers.

GM, MOPAR and AMC made some great cars (muscle car days) but they are to be admired at a distance as they are the competition.
 
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