Front wheel bearing packing
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Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
I use a solvent or gasoline and compressed air to thoroughly clean ALL the old grease out of the bearing and hub. Then inspect each roller and the race for any sign of damage. I then use Mystik JT-6 high temp grease to repack the bearings, and coat the inside of the hub and spindle so there is no bare metal to rust.
I put a glob of grease in my palm and keep cupping the edge of the bearing into it to fill every bit of air space around each roller, until the grease comes out the other end of the roller. BTW, I save old bread and Subway bags just for this reason. I put the Subway bags over each hand, then put the glob of Mystik JT-6 high temp grease into the left hand and hold the bearing with the bag over my right hand. This way I can pack the bearings and get no grease on my hands. If the bearing is for future use, or a spare for stock, I just turn the left bag inside out with the bearing inside. That way it's protected from dirt and water and neatly wrapped away.
Assemble the hub and bearings, then spin the brake drum while using a 10" or 12" adjustable wrench to snug the nut, then back off and let the weight of the wrench at the 3 o'clock position be the tightness needed for the nut. Install the cotter. If the cotter hole doesn't line up, then back off to the first notch that lines up.
I put a glob of grease in my palm and keep cupping the edge of the bearing into it to fill every bit of air space around each roller, until the grease comes out the other end of the roller. BTW, I save old bread and Subway bags just for this reason. I put the Subway bags over each hand, then put the glob of Mystik JT-6 high temp grease into the left hand and hold the bearing with the bag over my right hand. This way I can pack the bearings and get no grease on my hands. If the bearing is for future use, or a spare for stock, I just turn the left bag inside out with the bearing inside. That way it's protected from dirt and water and neatly wrapped away.
Assemble the hub and bearings, then spin the brake drum while using a 10" or 12" adjustable wrench to snug the nut, then back off and let the weight of the wrench at the 3 o'clock position be the tightness needed for the nut. Install the cotter. If the cotter hole doesn't line up, then back off to the first notch that lines up.
glenn in camino
Well-known member
Better a little loose than too tight. Don't torque.
Kurt in NJ
Well-known member
If the nut turns freely on the threads ---tighten with wrench while spinning, loosen, tighten as tight as 2 fingers can, put cotter pin in in that position or loosen just enough for pin.
When taking apart look at grease between rollers without disturbing --look for silver flakes --if flakes are found no need to clean, replace with good bearing.
Here is a you tube that is pretty good,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQYiA53vcxA&feature=related I have only 2 issues, one--I have more obsession with avoiding any chance of "dirt" in the bearing --I don't work on the ground, I set everything on a clean piece of paper or cardboard, and after the wrench tightening I do the final with finger tightness only ( nut needs to turn easy on the threads) no tools, in shop manuals that have fancy methods using torque wrenches the final tightening with a torque wrench equals as tight as 2 fingers can tighten.
the school I went to the teacher would take your freshly cleaned bearing and roll it across your white paper--if it left marks you started over.
when I clean a bearing it gets washed, blown out, then washed again
Tom's method with a wrench is reasonable also, the weight of the wrench is close to as tight as fingers can get. ---never tighten more, even if it is "just a little bit".
When taking apart look at grease between rollers without disturbing --look for silver flakes --if flakes are found no need to clean, replace with good bearing.
Here is a you tube that is pretty good,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQYiA53vcxA&feature=related I have only 2 issues, one--I have more obsession with avoiding any chance of "dirt" in the bearing --I don't work on the ground, I set everything on a clean piece of paper or cardboard, and after the wrench tightening I do the final with finger tightness only ( nut needs to turn easy on the threads) no tools, in shop manuals that have fancy methods using torque wrenches the final tightening with a torque wrench equals as tight as 2 fingers can tighten.
the school I went to the teacher would take your freshly cleaned bearing and roll it across your white paper--if it left marks you started over.
when I clean a bearing it gets washed, blown out, then washed again
Tom's method with a wrench is reasonable also, the weight of the wrench is close to as tight as fingers can get. ---never tighten more, even if it is "just a little bit".
BILL WILLIAMSON
Well-known member
If I don't know the proper torque on a certain car, I just torque them to 120 inch pounds, (10 foot pounds) while rotating drum slowly. Has always worked for me.
Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
That's tight and I guess you've been lucky to have not burned out a wheel bearing so far.
If you grab the nut with a pair of pliers, held in line with the spindle, and very lightly snug the nut, that's as tight as it should be. If the cotter holes don't line up then back off to the first hole that lines up.
Bill Steiner
Senior Member
I don't think it's normal to need a puller for the front hubs. They should come off easy. double ck that the brakes are backed off good. Bill
BILL WILLIAMSON
Well-known member
I worked on Jaguar for many years, and that was their specified torque, and the bearings were common Timken bearings, same design as Model A's and a similar size.
Torque IS necessary because of expansion and contraction due to heat and I feel that a preloaded bearing does a better job of circulating the grease around the races and the rollers. Just imagine the weight of the car supported on these bearings, any Timken bearing MUST be pre-loaded by torqueing in order for the rollers to be seated solidly to the angles of the bearing races. These bearings are very durable and safe when adjusted properly. This bearing design is still in use on many modern cars! I feel that most bearing failures are caused by inferior grease, and/or improper adjustment. Use a good proven grease, and one that is rated for disc brakes. Genuine Timken grease is good, don't use McKay, or "Acme" or "Joes Super Goo" or any unproven Bull Sh---t labels.
Just concerned about keeping my Model A compadres SAFE!
My new Rat Terrier, "BUSTER T. BROWN" ALSO AGREES WITH ALL THE ABOVE!!
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supergnat
Senior Member
cars56,
The KR Wilson reporduction hub puller was out of reach for me due to the cost $135 I think). I opted for a puller from Brattons. See page 156: #6150 for 28-31 (Protruding ring hubs) or #6160 for 28-31 (Recess hub ring style). Check the catalog photos for hub style $27 each plus shipping. Mine worked great. I agree with mst of the others, the front bearing should not be torqued, just two finger snugged. The rears must be torqued.
Supergnat
The KR Wilson reporduction hub puller was out of reach for me due to the cost $135 I think). I opted for a puller from Brattons. See page 156: #6150 for 28-31 (Protruding ring hubs) or #6160 for 28-31 (Recess hub ring style). Check the catalog photos for hub style $27 each plus shipping. Mine worked great. I agree with mst of the others, the front bearing should not be torqued, just two finger snugged. The rears must be torqued.
Supergnat
Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
I helped a guy move his just purchased Model A last summer. Had to drive it 20 miles through downtown Minneapolis and St Paul and the steering was sloppy. When I got it to his house I jacked up the front end and found the left wheel bearing 3 turns too loose and the right bearing 2 turns too loose.
Yep, that'll make for some slop!
Yep, that'll make for some slop!