Joe,
one sure way to identify between a casting and a forging is that the casting will have a parting line like this part. A forging will not, and edges will be rounded instead of sharp like a casting. Raw castings will often have visible pattern draft on unmachined areas of the part also. Like all manufactured parts they have manufacturing tolerances. The shank that engages the hole on mine were .563" the decimal reamer that I used bored a .5625" bore (9/16") and like I said had a .0005" interference fit that pressed in nicely both parts being at room temperature.
The counter bore that I cut was with a 60 degree chamfering bit which would facilitate in access to the back of the part and allow easy welding to the parent metal. I used a dept micrometer to measure the hole depth in the casting. Then measured the overall length of the part minus the 1.060 desired installed height, then simply subtracted .125" from the measured hole depth of the part. It came to removing .250" from the O.A.L, once pressed in then they were where they needed to be and ready to weld.
I have two mills, an newer 1.5 H.P. import, and a series 1 J head Bridgeport (my favorite), neither mill would accommodate these housings in a vertical plane which would have been much easier, as can be seen by the horizontal milling position employed to square the face of the part in preparation for boring. The problem is that the housings taper out towards the flange that bolts to the banjo and would not provide the needed clearance to the power head on the mill. What I ended up doing was remove the belt guard from my 16" Craftsman drill press, and it then just barely provided the necessary clearance needed.
Any way this process would produce a weldment that would resemble a tapered head rivet and have exceptional penetration to the part and the parent metal around the weld..... Those balls will not be going anywhere, as the joint is probably stronger than the metal is in the casting itself....
Thank you for the compliment on the job done.
