valve seats revisited

ole39

ole39

Senior Member
well, learned the hard war that all 49-53's didnt have valve seats. in my case intakes. took my block to a local machinist, and he said the 2 seats in the pix are not fixable, therefore, the block is scrap. i'm hoping to get a few opinions on this to see if there's someway it can be saved. i really hate to scrap it as its ported, bored 3.5/16, and lightly relieved. also, it never ran hot
as for the flywheel, i know it needs a ring gear, but was concerned about the rust. btw, forgive the pix, my grandkids weren't here to help
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It can definitely be welded and saved, BUT, it will be far cheaper to start from scratch with a different block.

It is not a safe practice to use a cast iron flywheel in a performance engine.
 
PETE: Please explain why "It is not a safe practice to use a cast iron flywheel in a performance engine."

Also: Is it ok to use an aluminum flywheel in a stock 1953 Ford/Merc flathead?
 
19Fordy said:
PETE: Please explain why "It is not a safe practice to use a cast iron flywheel in a performance engine."

Also: Is it ok to use an aluminum flywheel in a stock 1953 Ford/Merc flathead?
Click to expand...

Performance engines are usually turned to relatively high RPM's. 5000 or more.
Cast iron is very porous and rusts easily. It frequently has internal cracks and cavities from the manufacturing process. These can go for years undetected.
The friction surfaces can easily get heat cracked.
Some excess RPM and it explodes.
If you want some real excitement, try being in a car when a flywheel or clutch explodes.

Aluminum flywheels and clutches will work fine in stock applications.
Modern ones have a steel insert in the friction area and will last almost forever.
 
I witnessed a cast flywheel explosion on a 302 GMC six on a gear change at about 300' down a 1/4 mile dragstrip. Approx 6000 rpm, broke pressure plate,flywheel,disc, and a 1/4" scatter shield and buried pices 6" into the asphalt. A piece went into the spectators area, missed a guy by 2" and severely bent the A pillar on a late model pickup he was leaning on. Lots of energy there. :eek:
 
While I agree a cast iron flywheel in a performance situation is dangerous (from my days drag racing), in a stock engine it will last almost forever. Resurfacing should be ok to be used again. I didn't see the op was going racing with the car.


Aluminum flywheels are not the optimum thing for a street car (especially a heavy car) as the heavy flywheel provides the inertia for moving from a stop.
 
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i am not building a race car, just a slightly warmed over engine. my main reason for this post was to see if and how to repair this block
 
ole39 said:
i am not building a race car, just a slightly warmed over engine. my main reason for this post was to see if and how to repair this block
Click to expand...


Agree about the flywheel...street and modest rpm no sweat. The block? Sure it can be repaired but if another block can be found that's the way I'd go....and I work in an engine machine shop.



Terry
 
Find a Laserwelder. He can weld with the correct material and as the temperature is only where the laser points there is no extra stress generated in the material, no hard and brittle spots. Saves a lot of time and a good block as well. It will be much less work than start all over on another block.
 
I repaired the 8BA for my 1952 F1 four years ago (Jan. 2019) with Irontite pins. This was discussed in my thread (Eagle43) named "Hairline Crack". I bought a box of 100 Irontite A-235 plugs, a tapered tap and a drill bit from eBay for $183 CAD including shipping at the time. I'm sure they're a lot more now like everything else. The motor runs with no leaks thus far and sounds fine. I'm almost ready for the road with this truck and just got it appraised for insurance.
 
Worked at Motor City Flatheads for years! Word of advice find a new block that way you are never worrying about the block. You wouldn't buy a house with a cracked foundation.
 
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