Anyone running an aluminum radiator?

removing the tank and rodding the tubes is not that big of a job if you can solder. i did the rad on my pickup a few years ago and it turned out fine. un fortunately i just tried to do one for the speedster i'm building but the tubes were stopped up so solidly i damaged the tubes trying to clean them. i don't have the facility to hot tank as was done in the old shops that have closed up. that would probably have softened the gunk in the tubes.
 
I was surprised at how quickly the propane heated iron would heat the metal and melt the solder. I have tried soldering the lapped corners of a galvanized pan with a propane torch and even that material conducted the heat away and required a lot of heating. Maybe it was modern no-lead solder at fault and that is why the guy saved the old solder?
 
mcorrell said:
Thanks. I was hoping the quality and fit might have improved over the past few years. Guess I'll keep my driving to cool days and/or nights. While I usually don't treat my old cars as investments, it is hard to drop a lot of money into an "A" these days. I could easily spend $1500 on her for a new radiator and steering box rebuild just in parts and not have a car worth much more and only be just a bit of a better driver. I'd rather spend that on engine work to pick up power to keep up with traffic, which would only exacerbate poor cooling and steering. Maybe my '64 Buick convertible won't eat up my old car budget next year?
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Again, it is your car and your money but IMO what you are describing is difficult for me to understand. You state that you want to make your MOdel-A safe & reliable so you can pass this vehicle on to your daughter, ...yet you are concerned that spending $1,500.00 to repair a poorly 'restored' vehicle is not a value to you. From my vantage point, I would think you WOULD want to give your daughter the best, -and make the vehicle as safe as possible, ...and as reliable as possible just as these cars were when new. The idea that a dad gave their daughter some POS unreliable Model-A with the expectation that she should embrace it in that condition does not appear to me to be what an heirloom is about. Maybe I am wrong though??
 
BRENT in 10-uh-C said:
Again, it is your car and your money but IMO what you are describing is difficult for me to understand. You state that you want to make your MOdel-A safe & reliable so you can pass this vehicle on to your daughter, ...yet you are concerned that spending $1,500.00 to repair a poorly 'restored' vehicle is not a value to you. From my vantage point, I would think you WOULD want to give your daughter the best, -and make the vehicle as safe as possible, ...and as reliable as possible just as these cars were when new. The idea that a dad gave their daughter some POS unreliable Model-A with the expectation that she should embrace it in that condition does not appear to me to be what an heirloom is about. Maybe I am wrong though??
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Brent, you make some good points. The car is safe, though the steering has about 4" of play at the steering wheel. That will be fixed soon as it appears the culprit is worn bushings in the steering housing. The overheating occurs only in very specific instances (ambient temps over 80° and on long grades), which can be avoided. This was my grandfather's car which he bought "restored" in the late 1980s. The restorer took many shortcuts, including the 2 core radiator which has about 1/2 gallon less capacity than stock. After my grandfather passed, my dad put it in his barn for 10 years and then sent it to me in mechanically rough condition (barn find). The 40 year old tires at the time were all flat by the time it arrived and it didn't run due to a cracked head and stuck rings. I've had to put about $3000-$3500 in it to get it safe and reliable (within the limits of temperature) and also dropped $1000 in the shipping and $8000 in a new garage to house it. The car starts/drives/stops well.
I guess I am to that point were I've got 90% of the way there mechanically but the last 10% is going to cost half of what the first 90% cost.
 
I’ve been involved with A’s for over 60 years…since 14.
First of all, in today’s environment there is NO way to make a Model A safe for any sort of normal travel. The world has passed this design by, imho. 9 gallons of gas in your lap, windshield 12” away….They are acceptable for local, slow traffic, driving, group convoys, parades and special events. Plus, other drivers have just become attackers!
But giving someone a car with sure steering problems (4” play), overheating, all the other stuff. With that going on, what about brakes, et al?
Fix it or park it. Or, just admire it!!
Ok have at me…I’m sure many will
 
Mcorrell, I have a pressurized radiator that you can have if you want to go that route. I live in Wilkesboro and you would have to pick it up. I think it has a small leak that would have to be repaired but would do a good job of cooling. I bought a Berts radiator before he stopped making them and I am very glad I did. I wanted the atmospheric radiator for authenticity.

I think the radiator could be modified to run at atmospheric pressure by adding a top filler neck.
 
nkaminar said:
Mcorrell, I have a pressurized radiator that you can have if you want to go that route. I live in Wilkesboro and you would have to pick it up. I think it has a small leak that would have to be repaired but would do a good job of cooling. I bought a Berts radiator before he stopped making them and I am very glad I did. I wanted the atmospheric radiator for authenticity.

I think the radiator could be modified to run at atmospheric pressure by adding a top filler neck.
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Thank you nkaminar. I'm sure I can make it work out. I'll PM you.
 
Oldbluoval said:
I’ve been involved with A’s for over 60 years…since 14.
First of all, in today’s environment there is NO way to make a Model A safe for any sort of normal travel. The world has passed this design by, imho. 9 gallons of gas in your lap, windshield 12” away….They are acceptable for local, slow traffic, driving, group convoys, parades and special events. Plus, other drivers have just become attackers!
But giving someone a car with sure steering problems (4” play), overheating, all the other stuff. With that going on, what about brakes, et al?
Fix it or park it. Or, just admire it!!
Ok have at me…I’m sure many will
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I agree that making a Model A "safe" for today's roads is a hard task. The car is driven on 35-45 mph roads 90% of the time....not to say that many drivers adhere to the speed limit. I've added LED lights to the single OE tail light and added a second LED tail light on top of the spare where modern "3rd" lights are located. Also, I always drive with the cowl and tail lights on for visibility. We had a local couple rear ended in their '37 Ford pickup, killing them both.
 
Sorry Mark, My brain was in neutral. My radiator is a 1930-31. You can still have it and maybe trade if for a 28-29 radiator.
 
I purchased a Fordor that had a new ali radiator and it boiled 6 times on the ride home, first job was to replace it with an A rad no more probs.
Cheers Tanglfoot
 
There are several aluminum radiators out there that DO fit the original shell. With a dusting of radiator black paint they look pretty good. There was a thread on fordbarn a few years ago talking about this same subject. Some sellers are willing to stand behind the fit of their radiators, buy from them. About $250 last time I looked.
 
the cheap radiators but for a guy with young children and tight budget, it’s awesome. It keeps the car cool and cost me 1/6th other brands.



this is the one point "many" on here miss. Everyone isnt over 70 with a large budget.
or under 70 with a large budget............


diff times of life bring diff outcomes.
 
katy said:
I'll second that.
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Snyders and the like could gather 100 radiators, put them in a container and get them shipped to india. It can be organized it's just a question of 'is it worth it'.


By the way, i am pretty sure there's people like this indian guy in Cuba. Much closer to the US american border than india...
 
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