Replacing clutch in 1950 Shoebox Convertible

S

Shoebox on Whidbey

Junior Member
I just brought home a beautifully restored 1950 Shoebox Convertible, that recently had a new disk, pressure plate andTO brg installed. This is a flathead 8 with overdrive and has a large shutter when engaging the clutch. I believe it is a bad disk and need to pull the 3 spd trans out.

I am not as familiar with this vehicle as the people on the forum. Is it possible to remove the transmission without removing the engine?

Thanks in advance for tapping into your vast knowledge.
 
Shoebox on Whidbey said:
Is it possible to remove the transmission without removing the engine?
Click to expand...

Yes, but you shouldn't need to remove the transmission, just slide it back enough to access the clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing. You will be able to do this after removing the drive shaft. Having done this job lying on my back, I recommend you get access to a lift. You should also purchase a shop manual, AKA Green Bible, for this car. Since you have a convertible, you will need to contend with the X-frame rather than the ladder frame, which raises the degree of difficulty slightly. If the car has overdrive, the attached solenoid will also present a bit more of a challenge in maneuvering and aligning the ******. Finally, the job can be done solo, but is easier with a buddy, if you're willing to risk your friendship (slight exaggeration).

Those are some of the logistics. Now the big question: Why do you ascribe your problem to a newly installed clutch disk? I would definitely do a great deal more troubleshooting before taking things apart. Consult the Green Bible for more details.
 
The X-member frame of the convertibles does make it a bit more difficult but should still be doable. The 8BA Ford cars all had the same 9.5 inch clutch with the stamped steel bell. The transmissions with OD usually have a rocker type actuator housing so that the operating solenoid could be relocated down underneath the transmission due to interference of the X-frame member with the overdrive solenoid. The other Ford bodies with the standard frame didn't require that part.
 
Thank you everyone for your great comments. I do have the Ford green shop manual for 49-50-51, and have been referencing the the Chapter 2a regarding removal, but have been unclear about the differences between the ladder and x-frame that the convertible has.

I appreciate the years of experience this forum provides.
 
russonator said:
Yes, but you shouldn't need to remove the transmission, just slide it back enough to access the clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing. You will be able to do this after removing the drive shaft. Having done this job lying on my back, I recommend you get access to a lift. You should also purchase a shop manual, AKA Green Bible, for this car. Since you have a convertible, you will need to contend with the X-frame rather than the ladder frame, which raises the degree of difficulty slightly. If the car has overdrive, the attached solenoid will also present a bit more of a challenge in maneuvering and aligning the ******. Finally, the job can be done solo, but is easier with a buddy, if you're willing to risk your friendship (slight exaggeration).

Those are some of the logistics. Now the big question: Why do you ascribe your problem to a newly installed clutch disk? I would definitely do a great deal more troubleshooting before taking things apart. Consult the Green Bible for more details.
Click to expand...
From my experience, a defective clutch disc is the most logical culprit in causing a severe shudder when engaging the clutch. I don't know if the flywheel was turned when the replaced the clutch or where they sourced the parts.

Besides for the motor and transmission mounts, are there other key areas I should look at carefully?
 
Just so you know, I spent a lot of time and money replacing the disc and pressure plate on my '51. I also had the flywheel replaced. It didn't help at all.

After doing some research, and Q&A on this forum, I replaced the oil-soaked front motor mounts.

Problem solved.:)
 
That's interesting Tubman. I've got a 52 Customline with a T5 behind it. I get a bit of shudder only reversing and I've never been too fussed about it.
I might just look at my engine mounts sometime when I've nothing better to do. Pretty sure I've got at least one good mount among my bits & pieces.

Cheers

Mick
 
i also had a vibration on my 50 cpe fought with that problem for a year or so changing different pieces along the way then after replacing motor mnts which did help i took the fly wheel to a machine shop and they resurfaced it on a milling machine bingo it worked perfect the fellow that worked on it told me it was shaped like a bowl i would never take one apart again with out that being done it’s a big job to do especially when your up in age on your back hope this helps
 
Your original post sounds exactly like my '49 coupe when I got it.
All the tips given are very valid and had been done to my car by the PO.
I found it to be the TO bearing wasn't seated completely on it's hub.
I ordered a new assembly and, though not as bad, it too was at an angle.

I found original Ford parts on the internet worked perfectly and my clutch is perfectly smooth now. Have driven it about 3,000 miles with no issues.

Good luck with your repair!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2559.JPG
    IMG_2559.JPG
    85.2 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG_2561.JPG
    IMG_2561.JPG
    89.2 KB · Views: 18
  • IMG_2562.JPG
    IMG_2562.JPG
    91.5 KB · Views: 16
When we removed the tran. and OD> from my l949 convertible we had to remove the steel panel under the hump under floor mat. The top, LH bolt was the problem with X frame.
 
D-Roadster that’s what i had done when i first started putting in a new clutch and plate a good friend of mine had a small shop with a surface grinder but i didn’t mention that because the outcome in the end was the flywheel maybe his machine didn’t have a level table hope this helps
 
Gently push the clutch pedal down with your fingers until it just barely contacts the clutch, it should not want to push the pedal back "at all" if the pressure plates' fingers are all even. If they are not, you will it in the pedal. When you remove the trans and before you touch the clutch bolts check the finger heights on the clutch plate to make sure they are the same height. Check the pressure plate and flywheel for blue hot spots. Put a dial indicator on the flywheel and check the runout while turning it with a flywheel wrench. Have it surfaces ground. Cheak the clutch discs' springs. Put the disc on the trans input shaft and rotate it to see if it is warped. I always install a new throw-out bearing when I have a trans out. You might want to replace the pilot bearing too. Make sure the new ones fit the trans before you install them, the clutch disc too.

Pace the car not pointing at anything you care about Stand off to the side. Have someone put the parking brake on, chock block the wheels and have them let the clutch out a little while giving it a little gas and see how much that engine is moving. Some movement is normal.
 
 
For what it's worth. When I adapted the T5 behind my 52, I used Falcon pressure plate and disc. Same diameter (9" or 9 1/2"?) as the original except I had to get the flywheel redrilled to take the falcon pressure plate. The clutch is a lot lighter than the original now and if I'm not wrong, I'm pretty sure the spline is the same as the original Customline. Not that it matters because as I say, I used the Falcon pressure plate and disc.

Actually, it was pretty easy to adapt the T5 behnd the 8BA. If anybody wants the the detail on how to do it, I can put it up on the forum. But I suspect that's already happened.

Cheers
Mick
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top