Jerold Ebke
Member
What sanding block (brands) would anyone suggest for a rookie to use to follow complex curves on the fenders for bodywork and primer sanding?
Fender sanding blocks recommendations
- Thread starter Jerold Ebke
- Start date
This is a very good kit to get you going.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003978QGQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003978QGQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Oldbluoval
Well-known member
The Amazon link looks pretty good. I’d suggest hook and loop rather than PSA
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
See below....
My experiences with sanding Model-A fenders would say the Dura-block pads are too rigid for Model-A fender work.
It is my opinion that the bodyman needs to first learn the correct techniques of blocksanding with their fingers only. Jerold, I am going to assume you have mastered this, ...however if you have not, study this first mastering which direction to sand with your fingers, and how much pressure is too much on the sanding media where you are not 'riding' the media.
The reason I do not recommend using a hard block, -especially the Dura blocks is because the contact area of a flat block on a curved surface is minimal. Every stroke will result in a flat line (-or streak) being introduced into the substrate. In my shop, we use a specific sanding pad that is designed for curved surfaces however the expense of those sanding pads is likely too costly for the average hobbyist. Instead of those for a hobbyist application, I would suggest using a generic kitchen sponge with the sanding media wrapped loosely. The sponge should be pliable enough to conform the the curvatures of the fender, yet still provide enough support for the sanding media to not create flat spots or streaks.
[FONT=Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif]A model A restorer gave me an excellent tip for sanding complex curves many years ago. It has worked great many times! I have successfully use this method for years on my 3 model A restorations. You cut a piece of ABS 1/8" thick plastic about the same size as a paint stirring stick - about 1" to 1 1/4" wide and about 12" long. You then wrap the ABS "stick" with 80 grit sandpaper or what ever sandpaper you want to use and then bend the ABS to the contour of the curved area to be worked on, sanding in the X pattern like you normally do. The ABS plastic can be bent a lot, as it is quite flexible.[/FONT]
Rusty Nelson
Rusty Nelson
Brokenvette
Member
For a rookie, use Brents method. Durablocks are excellent for flat surfaces to level the primer. I use my fingers and the sponge on curves ;works great. I have used this method on C2 vettes, model A's and MGA's.Also I have done gas pumps many curves on then. Good luck.
Phil Brown
Well-known member
https://www.linearblockingtools.com/
These work very well if you match the thickness of the block to the curve that you're working on. But, they are not cheap.
The key to any block that you use is that its flexibility has to match the amount of curve in the panel that your working on.
Flexable with firm sanding surface will be your friend on an A fender
These work very well if you match the thickness of the block to the curve that you're working on. But, they are not cheap.
The key to any block that you use is that its flexibility has to match the amount of curve in the panel that your working on.
Flexable with firm sanding surface will be your friend on an A fender
ModelA29
Well-known member
These might fit the bill. https://www.eastwood.com/soft-sanders-6-pack.html
Big hammer
Well-known member
Made my own blocks, 3/4 in armaflex closed cell installation glued to 3/16 rubber backer. The size of 1/4 abrasive paper, wrapped around the block, a lot of water with some soap. It was flexible enough to bend in my hand or laid flat. Shade tree at its best, took my time as this is just a hobby for me, not making a living
Jerold Ebke
Member
Thanks so much for all the suggestions. I have done the hammer/dolly work and filler using some soft flexible sanding blocks, learning as I go.
I have multiple coats of filling primer applied, but have been hesitant to start to try to sand the primer wanting to have a good outcome. Indecision paralysis.
I can proceed with the soft sponge.
Brent, just for fun I would be interested in seeing the brand of your soft sanding block.
Never know, I may be able to get the acquisition manager to sign off on the purchase. ��
I have multiple coats of filling primer applied, but have been hesitant to start to try to sand the primer wanting to have a good outcome. Indecision paralysis.
I can proceed with the soft sponge.
Brent, just for fun I would be interested in seeing the brand of your soft sanding block.
Never know, I may be able to get the acquisition manager to sign off on the purchase. ��
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
https://buymirka.com/collections/mirka-soft-sponge-hand-sanding-pads
IMO, spraying Guidecoats are a thing of the past mainly because of the graphite guidecoats were troublesome if they managed to get into a seam or hole, -and most paint manufacturers will void their warranty if an unapproved paint (-such as something from an aerosol rattle can) is used.
Because of the above, most shops now use products that have the guidecoats built into the primer itself. We use the Evercoat Super Build urethane primer, and like it because it is DTM, sprays on as a thick hi-build primer, and lays-down well using a 2.2 tip. Once it is dry, it turns pink in color however when the shell is sanded-off, it turns gray ...so the guidecoat is built in. Other primer/surfacers now do the same, so ask your paint jobber what they carry and recommend.
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BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
Boy, ain't that the truth!!
Paint products have seen anywhere from a 50%, -to over a 150% price increase since COVID. A great example is Rage body filler. We were paying a little less than $50 a gallon a few years ago, and now it is $100.00 more a gallon than what it was. Then if that isn't enough, it used to be that you received a full gallon of filler in the can whereas now you only get a little more than ¾ a can full!!
Another is PPG's Black Concept was under $500 a gallon 2-3 years ago and it is nearly $900 a gallon now, plus another $230 a quart for the hardener. The issue IMO is now with the price of paint materials, most people cannot afford to take chances with mixing paint materials, -or doing something that the manufacturer will not stand behind. Who would have ever thought the day would come when it would cost over $3,000.00 for paint materials alone to paint a Model-A??
Yes sir, that day is rapidly approaching. The issue is the 3M vinyl we use on our race cars is getting really expensive too! Below are some pix of Blake installing the vinyl wrap on our race car ...in an effort to save some money.
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