brakes
- Thread starter coolcoupe
- Start date
Flathead Fever
Well-known member
I have stock '50 Olds self-energizing brakes on the '28 Ford Mitchell Muffler Pickup that were installed when the flathead drivetrain was switched out for Olds power back in 1950. They kept the Early Ford hydraulics on the front. That sucker stops really well and straight. There is nothing unsafe about the balance of the brakes. It's the rest of the car that feels like a death trap to me. Here some photos of the entire drivetrain swap in 1950.
Attachments
Flathead Fever
Well-known member
The Mitchell Pickup was the first hot rod ever road tested in a magazine. Wally Parks did the testing in Hot Rod Magazine. He was happy with the self-energizing brakes on the rear and the Early Fords in front, except that they were sensitive and slid with too much pressure because of the light weight of the car. A '40-'48 car is going to stop differently. I'm building a '34 pickup with Lincoln brakes front and rear. On my '32 roadster highboy project I like the radiational look of the Early Ford backing plates on the front so I might run Lincolns just on the rear. I have a '32 2-window that somebody started building. Early Halibrand in the rear with F-100 self-energizing brakes, on converted 9-inch axles and Early Ford Brakes up front with Buick drums.
It's been years since I started the Mitchell Pickup up. I think it was the last Pasadena Reliability Run. It sees daylight about every ten-years. It should have that barn-find patina by now.
It's been years since I started the Mitchell Pickup up. I think it was the last Pasadena Reliability Run. It sees daylight about every ten-years. It should have that barn-find patina by now.
Attachments
Last edited:
I just ordered drums and backing plates with no problems, must have run out fast as they just got a large order in? They are out of the repro rear hubs which necessitates reusing the stock hubs with new studs to use their drums. I've sold quite a few sets of rear Lincoln for the 40's rear ends and Brian is right the fronts should also be changed for the proper balance. I will check the status of drums and report back.
Brian
Well-known member
A few years back I installed an Auburn two speed diff into my jailbar. The Auburns used 12" Bendix brakes, like Lincolns of the era. That jailbar was downright dangerous with the Lockheeds on front and Bendix on rear; the rear brakes would lock up with the resultant crazy antics...I fixed it by adapting 12" bendix brakes to the front.
That is my experience, hence my warning in my above post.
That is my experience, hence my warning in my above post.
I suggest you send an e-mail to Boling Bros and pose your question to them.
bolingbrothers@gmail.com
bolingbrothers@gmail.com
rich b
Well-known member
The original studs are swedged; the swedge needs to be cut to remove the original drums. The swedge is easily cut with a 5/8" hole saw. The original studs will no longer work and would be too short anyway as the cast drums are thicker than the original drums. Boling Bros lists the part number for the studs on their website and also sell a kit with serrated studs and a reamer, or you just get studs locally if you have the means to open the holes to .60.
Last edited:
There are no front drums, the same drums work front and rear. You can use your stock hubs with new studs. I assume your thinking of doing the BB 12 inch rear backing plates? Another option is to use the BB backing plates with the 1.75 wide shoes and use your stock drums. I've sold several kits F&R to customers using the 1.75 shoe BB backing plates and retaining their stock Ford drums. Several different options.
V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
If Gary ("Krylon32") does not, or is not able to supply you with new, proper-length studs, you can get the proper studs from Dorman. To utilize the "MT Products" drums, you'll need to cut the swage holding each original wheel stud into the stock drum/hub assembly using a 5/8" hole saw. You'll ream the five holes to 0.600" in the hubs and replace with specific Dorman #610-234 studs.
Coop
.
Because you need to drill out the swedging to remove the Ford hub from the drum. Also, Boiling Bros. brake drums are great, but are cast steel all around. Ford drums were cast iron rings welded to a sheet metal center allowing them to use short studs.
Replacing the studs in no big deal. You need to ream out the holes approx. .010 (Boiling brothers will tell you and now sell the correct studs) and the new studs are toothed so the will wedge into the old hub.
Nice thing about using Boiling Brothers drums is you can take the drums off without a puller since they become slip on drums like a "modern" car.
I highly recommend using their drums. They are excellent and perfectly round out of the box.
Haha, I didn't see your post. I believe Boiling Bros. sells the correct studs, but don't get them from them. Get them from Rock Auto. They are like 3/4's less in price than anyone else.
It took me a few hours going through the Dorman catalog to find the correct ones. Glad Coop posted the correct part number.