holley tea pot intake

[cvicky]

i'm switching out intake to my holley tea pot with automatic choke
old greasy intake has a tube going through intake from left fitting to right fitting
(choke heat riser )
the intake i want to install has a plug on right side.
can i remove plug and put fitting for auto choke .
i'm assuming the pipe in old intake is not crucial ?
does 58Y stamped on intake mean 1958?

 

[scicala]

Both intkes pictured are the same, and used originally in '56 only.
If you are using a '56 carb with hot air heated choke thermostat, you need to make sure the hot air tube in the bottom of the manifold is there and with no corrosion holes in is, or the exhaust carbon will gum up and eventually destroy the choke housing on the carb.
Also need the brass elbows on each side along with the short tube and nut that attached to the choke housing on the pass side. Need the tube on the driver's side lso tht goes from the brass elbow to the bottom front of the carb for clean air.
All parts I mentioned are available at CASCO (classictbird.com)

Sal

 

[dmsfrr]

What Sal said ^ ^ ^

If you're installing a choke thermostat cover that needs hot air, yes the small left/right tube in the exhaust crossover is crucial, first example photo. It's a heat exchanger tube so only clean outside air goes into the choke cover, and it isn't ruined like in the 2nd photo attached.
On the left / drivers side of the engine clean air is drawn from a tube that extends forward & upward into the carburetor, photo 3.

"58-Y" is the calendar date the intake manifold was cast.
5 = 1955, 8 = eighth month, Y corresponds to the day of the month.

ECZ-9425-A is a '56 model year (only) 4bbl intake manifold.

http://www.y-block.info/casting/intake.html
.

 

[scicala]

Well said dmsfrr.

Also, if using an electric heated choke thermostat, you can just plug the holes for the brass elbows on both sides. That way, if the hot air tube is rotted out, you won't get exhaust fumes.

Sal

 

[dmsfrr]

Well said dmsfrr. ...

Thanks but you said it all, I just added some photos.

 

[paul2748]

What are you trying to do ? Just change 56 intakes or going to 57 or later intake and carb ? The 4th and 5th pic above are for a 57 - 56 is different.

 

[dmsfrr]

edited

Paul,
You were correct. I don't have a photo of a '56 heat tube repair kit and substituted the '57.

 

[cvicky]

the picture of the long sqashed tube is the same as whats in the dirty old intake ( 1st three pics) and its ok so i'm going to reuse it and put tips, now that i know how it works and what its suppose to do
"PAINT" my engine has blue -red- orange what was the engine colour in 55 and code
what is the history , in the 60's i saw a lot of blue on Ford's

 

[scicala]

the picture of the long sqashed tube is the same as whats in the dirty old intake ( 1st three pics) and its ok so i'm going to reuse it and put tips, now that i know how it works and what its suppose to do
"PAINT" my engine has blue -red- orange what was the engine colour in 55 and code
what is the history , in the 60's i saw a lot of blue on Ford's

Original color for '55 Ford car V8's is red, with black valve covers, generator/brackets, starter and pulleys. Air cleaner is argent silver.

Sal

 

[cvicky]

what shade of red in 55 motor torch red is only thing mentioned

 

[dmsfrr]

Torch Red is an exterior body color. Ford 'engine red' is a bit more orange than that.
The engine paint in this photo is from an auto parts store rattle can selection, Duplicolor DE-1605
It could be close to what you're looking for.
If you're only painting the intake manif and trying to match a faded color it's a little more challenging.

If you have a small-ish part the right color, take it to the store with you to compare to the example color of the cap on the spray can.

 

[mercman from oz]

That Red looks good

 

[cvicky]

thx
i went to CTC (canadian tire corp.)and found CDE-1605 engine enamel FORD red in a rattle can
to answer the question what i'm trying to do :
my old 272 was smoking badly and burning 1 quart of oil every 250mi but it ran good -vacuum was good- compression was ok.
SO !! i was convinced to open it up and found it was bored 0.060 over with a ridge top and bottom.
heads were not that great either
now no motor, off i go looking for a Y block, 289 ,302, 5L ....
i finally get a call 272 for sale ... i buy it !
bring it home and dismantle to find : standard bore, looks like original pistons with new rings,gasket set , new timing chain and heads are refreshed with a 2 barel intake
clearances are border line so i'm going to put my intake and T pot , my exhaust manifolds,my standard trans and hope for the best
thx again for all your help !!