1930 Model A Tie Rod Loose

W

Wascator

New member
Hi, just got a nice A; noticed the right-hand tie rod end has too much movement. I noticed there is no cotter pin in the end, and the end plug seems screwed in pretty far. The driver’s side has no looseness and it has a cotter pin.
I need to know how to inspect the joint: how to inspect the ball, mostly. I know the other parts are replaceable.
 
Turn the screw plugs out and knock tie rod up past the balls. You should find 1 side has 2 cups and one side has 1 cup and screw end that surround the ball with 1 stout spring on each side. It is too dark out to see which side is the drivers side. The ball needs to be mostly spherical to give smooth steering.
 
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OK thanks. I haven’t been able to turn the screw plug yet; I may have to buy the tool made for that. It’s not rusty at all. Otherwise the steering is very smooth.
 
On reassembly, how tight do you run in the end plug?
Till a little slop?
Till no slop?
1-2 turns past no slop?

Thanks Forum. You folks are THE BEST!
 
The only reference that I've found that tells how to adjust the tie-rod, drag link ends is in my 1965 Ford Truck shop manual that says: "Tighten the threaded plug in the end of the socket until the spring is fully compressed (ball seat bottoms on spring seat). Then back off the plug approximately 1 turn to the point where the slot in the plug lines up with the cotter pin holes in the drag link. Install a new cotter pin through the end of the drag link to lock the plug."

Not sure if this apples to Model As or not.
 
I seem to recall a spec calling for 25% spring compression? That is, if the spring is 1" long then run the threaded plug in until it everything seats, then 1/4" more? Of course, the slot in the head of the plug needs to clear the holes in the tie rod so that you can get a cotter pin in.

JayJay
 
Les Andrews Red Book sez;
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J Franklin said:
Turn the screw plugs out and knock tie rod up past the balls. You should find 1 side has 2 cups and one side has 1 cup and screw end that surround the ball with 1 stout spring on each side.
Click to expand...

I don't see two cups on one side on the tie rod? Are you thinking on the drag link?
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Are you thinking on the drag link?
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Here's how the tie rod and drag link should be assembled:
 

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I was just looking at a catalog photo of the parts kit to try and jog my memory, you are correct since the kit is for either. He may be missing a part or has a broken/wrong spring on the loose side.
 
If the spring is 1" when non compressed. Fully compressed would still be 1/2", since the spring itself has coils with cumulative length, then 25% compressed would be about 7/8". The plug is 16 tpi I think, so tightening 2 turns after all slop is removed would be about 1/8". Does that make any sense?

Jerry
 
Jerry Kzoo said:
If the spring is 1" when non compressed. Fully compressed would still be 1/2", since the spring itself has coils with cumulative length, then 25% compressed would be about 7/8". The plug is 16 tpi I think, so tightening 2 turns after all slop is removed would be about 1/8". Does that make any sense?

Jerry
Click to expand...
A lot more analytical that I was, to be sure.

What I've found in practice is that after a certain point it becomes so difficult to screw in the plug that you just say "good enough" and put in the cotter pin.

JayJay
 
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