New Guy

Welcome, Eddie! This is a great group with a wealth of information. Perhaps you can check around and see if there are any other flathead folks near you so you can pick their bran! Lol!

Again, welcome …..

Good morning Tom !!! I haven't found anyone near me running flatheads ... the cars I've seen are Chevy small block (perish the thought) in all makes of cars. LOL I spend my share of time on here reading other posts about issues they have and take what I can from there. The Merc' and I are both olg guys and a work in progress !!! :P
 
Good morning Roy. I've checked and rechecked everything on the carb, float /fuel height, reset idle screws (holding steady 20mb vacuum ...... it may be a piece of crud got stuck somewhere. I have an electric pump on it for priming ... mech pump is running 4psi.

4 lbs is a bit high, and may be the cause for the leak. If I had to guess, it probably doesn't leak when it is being driven, since the engine is constantly depleting the supply. Probably needs a good cleaning an a rebuild kit, especially if it has been setting for awhile.

Two ways you can go at it: one, the kits are readily available and it it is a relativity straight forward process, if you like doing things yourself, or:

I am offering Carburetor Rebuild, repair and Professional Restoration Service.

Expertise in Domestic Carburetors with over 50 years of
Experience !

Specializing in Vintage and Classic Car/Truck Carburetion.
(1940's - 1950's - 1960's - 1970's)

Passenger Car
Truck
Performance Car/Truck
Multi-Carb Setups
Marine
Industrial

All Carburetors Are Rebuilt To Meet OEM Specification, Or
Customer's Unique Specifications.

Sal Cicala (scicala on Ford Barn)
Email: sal_cicala@yahoo.com
Ph. (586) 612-1650


When you get a chance, post a few picture of the car.
 
:)GB...I think you have had a couple bumps tonight ![/QUOTE

I was referring to the way they both keep a resevoir filled with a similar valving system. A pretty ingenious system at that! Only bumps these days are when this old wagon I been on since August hits a pothole and I bump my head on the sideboard. Still the life of the party! (insert roll eye imogee).... Oh, and pass me that teapot.
 
4 lbs is a bit high, and may be the cause for the leak. If I had to guess, it probably doesn't leak when it is being driven, since the engine is constantly depleting the supply. Probably needs a good cleaning an a rebuild kit, especially if it has been setting for awhile.

Two ways you can go at it: one, the kits are readily available and it it is a relativity straight forward process, if you like doing things yourself, or:

I am offering Carburetor Rebuild, repair and Professional Restoration Service.

Expertise in Domestic Carburetors with over 50 years of
Experience !

Specializing in Vintage and Classic Car/Truck Carburetion.
(1940's - 1950's - 1960's - 1970's)

Passenger Car
Truck
Performance Car/Truck
Multi-Carb Setups
Marine
Industrial

All Carburetors Are Rebuilt To Meet OEM Specification, Or
Customer's Unique Specifications.

Sal Cicala (scicala on Ford Barn)
Email: sal_cicala@yahoo.com
Ph. (586) 612-1650


When you get a chance, post a few picture of the car.

If you click on my name, I have an album started with a few pics. I have a rebuilt carb on it now, that's why I'm thinking I may have gotten some debris in it from before. I had to change out my gas tank ..... 70 years and probably a lot of sitting didn't do it any favors. Lots of crud, rust, etc. I didn't check to see how much pressure I was getting with the electric pump running ..... if I remember, the info on it said 5-8psi. I'm gonna rebuild the old carb myself, take my time and see how it works out.
 
:)GB...I think you have had a couple bumps tonight ![/QUOTE

I was referring to the way they both keep a resevoir filled with a similar valving system. A pretty ingenious system at that! Only bumps these days are when this old wagon I been on since August hits a pothole and I bump my head on the sideboard. Still the life of the party! (insert roll eye imogee).... Oh, and pass me that teapot.

The only "bumps" I take these days are from my weak front seat springs, or the coffee cup. LMAO !!!!:)
 
If you click on my name, I have an album started with a few pics. I have a rebuilt carb on it now, that's why I'm thinking I may have gotten some debris in it from before. I had to change out my gas tank ..... 70 years and probably a lot of sitting didn't do it any favors. Lots of crud, rust, etc. I didn't check to see how much pressure I was getting with the electric pump running ..... if I remember, the info on it said 5-8psi. I'm gonna rebuild the old carb myself, take my time and see how it works out.

If I remember right, pressure should be between 3 and 3 1/2 lbs.

Put a disposable fuel filter in the line and change it out from time to time. Mine is back by the tank, but away from the exhaust,

Are you running radials or bias ply tires?

Very nice car, well cared for.

Vin tag says:
Built in Metuchen, NJ
Color = 11 - Sherwood Green Metallic
interior = 380 - Green & White Check B/Cloth
Production date = April 8th, 1953 (Wednesday), 318th built that day
 

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Hi Eddie, I looked at the pictures of your car. That looks like one
Very Nice, well kept up '53 Merc, and a rare 2 dr. besides.

You will get her running good and you'll have lots of fun
cruising around in that (chick magnet) lol, lol. ;);)




.
 
Greetings. My dad told me a story. Grandpa bought a new '53 Merc and every summer they towed a trailer behind it from the farm in North Dakota to California, across the hot desert, and it never got hot, they never had a problem with it. My dad was a flathead guy but he always especially fond of those late model Merc motors.
 
If I remember right, pressure should be between 3 and 3 1/2 lbs.

Put a disposable fuel filter in the line and change it out from time to time. Mine is back by the tank, but away from the exhaust,

Are you running radials or bias ply tires?

Very nice car, well cared for.

Vin tag says:
Built in Metuchen, NJ
Color = 11 - Sherwood Green Metallic
interior = 380 - Green & White Check B/Cloth
Production date = April 8th, 1953 (Wednesday), 318th built that day

Fuel filter inline before electric pump ...... bias ply type tires from Coker
 
Greetings. My dad told me a story. Grandpa bought a new '53 Merc and every summer they towed a trailer behind it from the farm in North Dakota to California, across the hot desert, and it never got hot, they never had a problem with it. My dad was a flathead guy but he always especially fond of those late model Merc motors.

My Dad thought the only engine worth driving was a flathead. My temp gauge is messed up, I guess ..... I'm running 160* thermostats with bypass holes drilled @ 6 and 12 and it still shows hot. Still working on that one. **rolling eyes loud enough to hear them clank** :D
 
My Dad thought the only engine worth driving was a flathead. My temp gauge is messed up, I guess ..... I'm running 160* thermostats with bypass holes drilled @ 6 and 12 and it still shows hot. Still working on that one. **rolling eyes loud enough to hear them clank** :D

After replacing the two sensors twice, and two different gauges, I gave up and went to two separate gauges. The drivers side runs around 5 degrees hotter than the passenger side. I was able to verify that with a heat gun.

Go to Harbor Freight and buy a laser heat gun, then you will know what the temps really are. Odds are, it isn't really running hot, especially if it isn't overflowing.

https://www.harborfreight.com/121-infrared-laser-thermometer-63985.html
 

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Good morning folks !!! My name is Eddie and I live in Middle Tennessee. Thanks for letting me join the group. I own a '53 Merc', all stock (as far as I know) and I'm trying to get it running right (not much luck there) LOL
I'm an old guy who's new to flathead engines and I may ask a lot of questions because I don't know about things.
Thanks again for letting me in the barn !!!


Me Too !! I'm a 40 + year mechanic at the end of my run. Trying to learn about the V8 flathead, not even close to my flathead Studebaker.
 
Me Too !! I'm a 40 + year mechanic at the end of my run. Trying to learn about the V8 flathead, not even close to my flathead Studebaker.

Well, Hiram, I've never considered myself a mechanic (of vehicles) and my knowledge is mostly trial and error .... but I do believe the flathead to be a different animal altogether. LMAO !!!!!
 
After replacing the two sensors twice, and two different gauges, I gave up and went to two separate gauges. The drivers side runs around 5 degrees hotter than the passenger side. I was able to verify that with a heat gun.

Go to Harbor Freight and buy a laser heat gun, then you will know what the temps really are. Odds are, it isn't really running hot, especially if it isn't overflowing.

https://www.harborfreight.com/121-infrared-laser-thermometer-63985.html

After reading your comment about the sensors, I gave myself a good old fashioned "dog cussin" for not paying attention to my own engine ..... never thought about the second sensor on the right bank !!! **face palm** I ordered a single post sensor and got my heat gun. When I take the sensor out of the equation, I'll check the gauge VS temp gun and see what happens. I'm a slow learner at times !!!!
 
After reading your comment about the sensors, I gave myself a good old fashioned "dog cussin" for not paying attention to my own engine ..... never thought about the second sensor on the right bank !!! **face palm** I ordered a single post sensor and got my heat gun. When I take the sensor out of the equation, I'll check the gauge VS temp gun and see what happens. I'm a slow learner at times !!!!

Glad to hear it worked for you. Now it's your turn to educate someone else.
 
Glad to hear it worked for you. Now it's your turn to educate someone else.

I changed the right bank sensor ... no surprise here, but it was (I believe) an original .... temp gauge doesn't rush to the hot side, thermal shows head temps @ 160* + - .... right bank a few degrees warmer than left. PROBLEM SOLVED !!! Thanks for your input and help. I appreciate it !!!
 
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