Need help to remove the crankshaft pulley

Dbbc

Dbbc

Senior Member
Aloha
Drop the oil pan and found some big chunk of metal in the pan. It is coming from the crank shaft pulley or the piece that goes before it with a indentation in it (sorry donʻt know the name for it). Anyway trying to get the bolt out, but to no avail. Any tricks? I hear to try to rest the wrench on the frame, driver side - passenger side? and crank the engine?
I am guessing also that the bolt unscrew counter clock wise? is that correct?
Any help greatly appreciated.
mahalo
daniel
 
It does un-screw in the usual counter-clockwise way. I've attached a pair of locking pliers to the nut, rested the pliers against the generator side of the cross-member, remove the spark plugs, and rock the car, in 1st gear, until the nut freed up. Good Luck....
 
Aloha
Thanks Chuck, I am trying. I am using a ratchet with an extension thru the crank hole at the bottom of the radiator, and the ratchet is resting on the mount for the bumper driver side, I guess it is correct. I am rocking the car in gear but so far no luck. Maybe an impact wrench would be better? Will try some more #!#(&!$&(&!).
mahalo
 
Some of those old replacement pulleys were made from zink die cast and they were not good replacements. Most were two piece to make it easier to remove the pulley with the front cross member and radiator in the way. Old pulleys with damage can be a bear to remove sometimes. I had to remove the radiator to get one off before.
 
Impact gun will work. Try to use a 6 point socket. Penetrating oil overnight first. Them start with about 40 lbs of air. Bump it up about 5 lbs at a time, until it comes out. Not worth the risk of snapping the bolt off in the crankshaft.
 
Impact wrench is a good idea. Otherwise rest the wrench against something solid to resist the normal clockwise rotation of the engine as viewed from the front and use the starter motor with the transmission in neutral.

If it is the two piece version, people have welded something onto the inner part to remove it. Heat helps. Removing the radiator helps.

Raising the front of the motor up helps. If you raise the front up, remove all put one of the rear bolts that bolt to the engine on each side of the stock rear motor mount and undo the front motor mount. Loosen the remaining bolts in the stock rear motor mount. Use a piece of wood under the engine pan when you lift the motor. If you have the Float A Motor rear engine mounts, you can just remove the bolts that go through the pads.

If you rock the car, use third gear. The nut will loosen going forward.

I have just used a 2 foot breaker bar with the car in high gear and the emergency brake full on. I also block the rear wheels from going backwards. The nut loosens counter clockwise.
 
Last edited:
Dbbc said:
Aloha
I hear to try to rest the wrench on the frame, driver side - passenger side? and crank the engine?
I am guessing also that the bolt unscrew counter clock wise? is that correct?
Any help greatly appreciated.
mahalo
daniel
Click to expand...

I did that once... by mistake! I started the car with my ratchet nut still in place after timing the car. I was lucky the wrench didn't hit anything except the lower radiator hose but spun the ratchet nut right off. Attempt at your own risk.

I think I would go with the impact.:rolleyes:
511508
 

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Aloha

Got it. Thanks to all of you who gave advice and support. Not really a car guy but I do get by. Just love the Model A. Attach is a pic of the issue, the pulley seemed fine, but not the spacer, luckily it did not seem to have made any damage inside the engine block.
Mahalo again.
daniel
 

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Search for a good quality pulley. There have been discussions on the Barn about this.

You did good work finding and fixing the problem. Another step in becoming a "car guy." You may have to replace the rope seals. The modern rope seals are good quality.
 
Dbbc said:
Aloha

Got it. Thanks to all of you who gave advice and support. Not really a car guy but I do get by. Just love the Model A. Attach is a pic of the issue, the pulley seemed fine, but not the spacer, luckily it did not seem to have made any damage inside the engine block.
Mahalo again.
daniel
Click to expand...

Now you need to change your name. I vote for the "Honolulu Car Guy".

Congrats.
 
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