Engine Stand Question

jtucker

Member
When mounting a model A engine to an engine stand, which bolt holes should be used?

The crankshaft sticks out so far in the back that it is proving difficult to get solid mount to then engine stand head.

Thx.
 
Mount to the coolant inlet on the side of the engine. Use grade 5 or better bolts that are fully engaged in the threaded holes. Use washers if too long. I had to weld my arms to the plate to keep them from rotating. I can grind the weld away if the stand is needed for a more modern engine (doubtful).
 

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Mount to the coolant inlet on the side of the engine. Use grade 5 or better bolts that are fully engaged in the threaded holes. Use washers if too long. I had to weld my arms to the plate to keep them from rotating. I can grind the weld away if the stand is needed for a more modern engine (doubtful).

I usually see bottom supports that mount to the oil pan holes in addition to those in the picture. I suppose if the pan and head and starter and manifold are all removed the engine will be considerably lighter.
 
It sounds like the OP is trying to mount the engine from the back without an adapter...


TOB
 
Although the photo in my post shows a stripped engine, the engine was mounted on the stand while it was being disassembled. The two threaded holes in the side of the block are enough to support the assembled short block (no manifolds, starter, generator, head, etc. but including the flywheel housing, flywheel, clutch assembly, and pan). Not having the pins in the holes for the bolts for the pan means that the pan can be installed while the engine is on the stand. It also means you don't have to buy the adapter.
 
This is my hookup to an engine stand:
 

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Bob, That will work well except when it comes time to mount the flywheel housing, flywheel and clutch parts. Those parts should be installed with the engine vertical, nose down.
 
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