possible clutch adjustment?

L

lincofish@charter.net

Junior Member
Hi all.
I'm working on a 1930 roadster. The running gear was already in the car and seemed fine until I tried to put it in gear and found with the pedal to the floor it was barely disengaging. I've opened the inspection cover and measured the finger distance from the pressure plate and found it to be over 3/4".
I really don't want to try to adjust the PP through the inspection hole, which got me wondering if I could get enough throw by raising the pedal height by altering the stop ring on the pedal shaft. Anyone tried this?
 
You need to adjust the turn buckle on the pedal if that doesn't work most likely you sheared the pin in the clutch shaft or cracked the arm outside the bellhousing.
 
This is the turnbuckle mentioned above. Normally it is used for clutch pedal adjustment.

Ideally you would like 1" of pedal movement before the throwout bearing contacts the pressure plate arms.

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I have the 1" free pedal but the pedal height started out to close to the floor, so it barely disengages. So my easy solution was to raise the pedal height to get more throw.
 
What you measured at the fingers of the pressure plate appears to me to be correct. I suspect there may be a crack in the clutch lever at the pin securing it to clutch shaft. The adjustment of the turnbuckle on the lever sets the distance the throw-out bearing is back from the pressure plate when the clutch is engaged so it does not rotate. The distance is usually 3/4 to an inch. The finger adjustment determines where the clutch disengages in the pedal stroke.

http://www.santaanitaas.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/pressure-plate-adjustment.pdf

Tom Endy
 
To see if you have a crack in the clutch pedal bushing where it is pinned to the shaft, remove the floor boards and see if a crack opens up when you push on the clutch pedal. The crack is due to a design flaw from the Ford factory.
 
I had a similar problem where I would keep adjusting the pedal and it would slowly lose it’s adjustment. It ended up being the pin slowly sheared on the throw out bearing fork. As it slowly sheared it would slowly change the pedal free play. I ended up pulling the rear end and AA 4 Speed trans then swapped out the bellhousing for a good spare one I had.
 
One of our club members had a similar problem The fork pushing the trow out bearing was cracked at the bottom of the fork. It was not visable looking at it from the top. It took awhile for him to realize that was the problem. Worked fine after the fork was replaced.
 
Also, remove the top cover of the flywheel housing (right in front of the gear-shift) and check to see you have a spring on your throwout bearing housing to transmission. This pulls back the throwout bearing when you're not pressing on the pedal.



I have seen an "ear" that the eye end of the spring attach to break off. It can be replaced with a screw eye.


Joe K
 
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