Help with 32 Coupe Lower Grille Shell Fit

Fredb_

Well-known member
I'm working on a project that I "inherited" from a friend and I've never put a 32 together and don't have a finished one that I can go look at. I'm fitting the front tin together and already did a metal repair to the lower LH side of the shell. I'm thinking these corners where grille shell, fender and rock shield come together is missing metal but not sure on which piece. Pictures and help appreciated.
 

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I've done quite a few fendered 32 Fords and that area you are concerned about always requires considerable massaging to look correct especially if you are using any reproduction parts. I've spent a lot of money over the years to get that area to look right. You may have to add meal to close up the gap if that's where your heading?
 
I've done quite a few fendered 32 Fords and that area you are concerned about always requires considerable massaging to look correct especially if you are using any reproduction parts. I've spent a lot of money over the years to get that area to look right. You may have to add meal to close up the gap if that's where your heading?

Yes, I was thinking I would have to add metal to something and the top of the rock shield looks like the best candidate. I thought it might be best to ask for advice or opinions before I do anything else. Thanks for letting me know it’s not an unusual issue.
 
I checked and my most recent 2 FF builds, my delivery and 5 window That seems to be an area I don't take detailed pictures of?
 
Out of curiosity, how many and which parts in the pictures are reproductions?

Front fenders are reproduction. Rock shield has a couple of repairs so I’m not sure on that piece. The grille shell has a few dings and I removed two or three colors of paint so it might be original, but definitely an older piece.
 
The front apron below the radiator shell is either a mediocre reproduction or an original that has been improperly repaired. It should have the exact same outward curvature in the center as the bottom of the radiator shell. If there is an original type 1/2" x 1/2" x 3 1/2" (approximate) felt space riveted to the top of the lip of the apron, it is worthless given the lack of proximity to the bottom of the radiator shell. It should be a snug fit.


In fact, it looks like the radiator shell is too far forward, likely the result of what I presume to be cooling coils for an A/C unit. The fit problem you are experiencing at the front is a preview of a hood fit problem if the radiator shell isn't moved back to an original position (or the car is intended to be without a hood).
 
The front apron below the radiator shell is either a mediocre reproduction or an original that has been improperly repaired. It should have the exact same outward curvature in the center as the bottom of the radiator shell. If there is an original type 1/2" x 1/2" x 3 1/2" (approximate) felt space riveted to the top of the lip of the apron, it is worthless given the lack of proximity to the bottom of the radiator shell. It should be a snug fit.


In fact, it looks like the radiator shell is too far forward, likely the result of what I presume to be cooling coils for an A/C unit. The fit problem you are experiencing at the front is a preview of a hood fit problem if the radiator shell isn't moved back to an original position (or the car is intended to be without a hood).


Thanks for the additional info. I have had the hood on and it's a decent fit in my uneducated estimation. Having never inspected closely an original front end I'm in learning mode. Yes it's not a stock chassis or drive train but wanting it to be somewhat correct if possible.
 

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Thanks for the additional info. I have had the hood on and it's a decent fit in my uneducated estimation. Having never inspected closely an original front end I'm in learning mode. Yes it's not a stock chassis or drive train but wanting it to be somewhat correct if possible.
509030


509031
 
In looking at your earlier photos, I note that the left front fender appears to be attached to the frame rail, unlike the fender on the right side. But in both instances the bottom edges of the radiator shell are touching the top of the lip on the fenders, which they should clear by about a 1/4 of an inch. It is hard enough when working with all original parts, let alone with a mixture of original parts and reproduction parts from various sources.
 
In looking at your earlier photos, I note that the left front fender appears to be attached to the frame rail, unlike the fender on the right side. But in both instances the bottom edges of the radiator shell are touching the top of the lip on the fenders, which they should clear by about a 1/4 of an inch. It is hard enough when working with all original parts, let alone with a mixture of original parts and reproduction parts from various sources.


I like the way you observe details. I did leave one bolt out on the RH fender to rail but it's secured forward and back of that hole. I've got a slim 1/8" gap between the bottom of the shell and fender lip. It's a little close and I might take a little off.
 
Before you trim the radiator shell, what do you have between the radiator and the front cross member in the way of a rubber pad?
 
I'd add 1/8" or 3/16" worth. That should also help with the fit of the bottom of the radiator shell and the front apron.
 
Hope this helps!
 

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And these!
 

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I don't necessarily recommend doing what I've done here, but with a little filler and paint this will look much better in my opinion. Before and after metal work. I admit that I'm basically a novice when it comes to body work. I used some round stock and formed it to the radius of the lower edge of the shell, then welded it to the apron and feathered it in.
 

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