I was able to find front brake shoes but am having trouble getting the drums to turn once the new ones are on. The adjusters are all the way in and everything else looks correct but when I put the drums on, about an inch before they're all the way on, they get really tight. I can push them on with some force and they will barely turn, but it takes a bit of force to get them to turn. Since I'm just pushing the car around the yard cuz the engine is still being assembled, I took the shoes back off. I'm thinking about maybe sanding the linings down a little, thinking maybe they're thicker than stock ones were. Is there any special way to sand them down?
Lincoln Capri front brake shoes issue
- Thread starter B-ster
- Start date
miker98038
Well-known member
I think what Paul is asking is were the metal parts the same. Curve, mounting locations, etc.
Back in the day new shoes were ground to match the arc of the drum. So the linings might be oversized, either on the ends, the middle, whatever. As drum brakes disappeared, only the old line or truck shops can do that now.
Given you had to force the drums on, my first thought is the linings were oversized to fit drums turned all the way to their tolerance. Or beyond.
Back in the day new shoes were ground to match the arc of the drum. So the linings might be oversized, either on the ends, the middle, whatever. As drum brakes disappeared, only the old line or truck shops can do that now.
Given you had to force the drums on, my first thought is the linings were oversized to fit drums turned all the way to their tolerance. Or beyond.
I did have the drums turned. Mainly because they've been sitting so long and second trying to get a little more space between the drum and shoes. The shoes are very close to the original. I had to drill another hole in the metal for a spring that attaches to a tab on the backing plate. Do you know if I can just use dry sandpaper and try to remove evenly?
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KULTULZ
Well-known member
Your only out is to find a brake service shop that has the ability to properly arc the shoes. They will need the drums to make the shoes match. Many brake reline shops offer this if they reline the shoes themselves.
Can you show a photo of the spring you are referring to? It sounds like the same method used on the 54-55 FORD.
Don't can or core the old shoes. Were the replacement linings the proper length as per the take-offs?
rich b
Well-known member
Maybe it is the way the picture present; but it looks like the notch for the anchor pin is "higher" on the new shoe. If so this would locate the shoes lower instead of being centered on the backing plate.
If that is just digital distortion and the shoes are the same; check if the backing plates have a bolted on top anchor pin; you could loosen it (making sure it is free to move) and with it loose see if the drum will go on and turn. If it does, tighten the star wheel adjuster as tight as it can go, then tighten the top anchor, and finally loosen the adjuster and see where things are at.
If that is just digital distortion and the shoes are the same; check if the backing plates have a bolted on top anchor pin; you could loosen it (making sure it is free to move) and with it loose see if the drum will go on and turn. If it does, tighten the star wheel adjuster as tight as it can go, then tighten the top anchor, and finally loosen the adjuster and see where things are at.
KULTULZ
Well-known member
Do the replacement brake shoes lining table and web match what you took off the car (and even they may not be correct)?
That spring you show was used for an eccentric adjustment on FORD-MERC. I don't see the eccentric for LINC, although the spring is shown. Is the anchor for the spring part of or attached to the backing plate?
The anchor pin looks to be adjustable. Do you have the proper SHOP MANUAL?
Where did you source the shoes? Make sure before you begin modifying them that they are correct.
That spring you show was used for an eccentric adjustment on FORD-MERC. I don't see the eccentric for LINC, although the spring is shown. Is the anchor for the spring part of or attached to the backing plate?
The anchor pin looks to be adjustable. Do you have the proper SHOP MANUAL?
Where did you source the shoes? Make sure before you begin modifying them that they are correct.
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The shoes came from kanter. $70 for fronts, couldn't find any where else.
The tops of the new pair appear to have a shallower curved part where it butts up against the anchor pin. That would make the shoes stick out a bit making it too tight.
I do have the correct manual. It doesn't show the eccentric spring that I drilled the hole for, but it is on the car. And there is adjustment for eccentric cam. I didn't know about the anchor being adjustable but I see it in the manual. How does the anchor adjustment work? I see where I loosen the nut on the back of the anchor pin and tap the pin inward. How does that change anything and if it's out of adjustment can it cause my issues?
The tops of the new pair appear to have a shallower curved part where it butts up against the anchor pin. That would make the shoes stick out a bit making it too tight.
I do have the correct manual. It doesn't show the eccentric spring that I drilled the hole for, but it is on the car. And there is adjustment for eccentric cam. I didn't know about the anchor being adjustable but I see it in the manual. How does the anchor adjustment work? I see where I loosen the nut on the back of the anchor pin and tap the pin inward. How does that change anything and if it's out of adjustment can it cause my issues?
rich b
Well-known member
The anchor pin is in a slot which lets it move up and down; this in turn moves the shoes up and down allowing them to be centered and concentric to the drum.
There isn't a lot movement in this adjustment; but it can cause a problem.
It listed as a major adjustment to be done at the time of installing new shoes.
I described an easy way to set this in my earlier post.
If your drums still have the slots for a feeler gauge; you can adjust per the manual.
I marked on your picture the area that looked different between the new and old shoes. If this is as it appears; the shoes would be held too low.
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KULTULZ
Well-known member
The brake shoe web is incorrect.
If the original shoes are installed, does the drum fit correctly? This is also a crap-shoot as the take-offs may not be correct.
If you move the anchor pin, will the drum fit over the new shoes? That pin adj. is not intended to allow the fitting of incorrect shoes on the backing plate, but to fine tune proper brake shoe placement on the backing plate.
If you move the pin and the drum will then fit over the shoes, you might try it. If the adj. does not help, you will need (IMO) to have the old shoes relined (riveted) and have them arc ground to the drum new diameter.
This is a heavy car on front drum brakes. No room for guessing.
Are you sure you have the correct LM WSM for the 1954 model run?
If the original shoes are installed, does the drum fit correctly? This is also a crap-shoot as the take-offs may not be correct.
If you move the anchor pin, will the drum fit over the new shoes? That pin adj. is not intended to allow the fitting of incorrect shoes on the backing plate, but to fine tune proper brake shoe placement on the backing plate.
If you move the pin and the drum will then fit over the shoes, you might try it. If the adj. does not help, you will need (IMO) to have the old shoes relined (riveted) and have them arc ground to the drum new diameter.
This is a heavy car on front drum brakes. No room for guessing.
Are you sure you have the correct LM WSM for the 1954 model run?
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KULTULZ
Well-known member
What is the source of that info?
rich b
Well-known member
Word of mouth, I'd say.
I was putting new brakes on my '56 F-100 about 50 odd years ago and after messing with a loose anchor pin and reading on how it was supposed to be adjusted, I found the new drums didn't have feeler gauge slots.
I talked to the old guy at the alignment shop and he clued me in on setting the anchor pin that way.
Been doing it that way ever since.
I'm sure the heel and toe numbers do not come out 100% to spec; but it works in the face of no other reasonable way to do it.
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