Pertronix 1282 on '56 T Bird with 312 engine

[RKS.PA]

This is my first post on this forum, but I've been over on the Flathead side for quite a while.

I'm working on a '56 T Bird that I bought about six weeks ago. The points/condenser ignition quit on me and I decided to go with a Pertronix electric. I know the arguments for staying with the points and on my '47 59AB, that's what I've done. But, I also built a '27 T coupe hot rod with a 283 SBC in it and it had electronic ignition which worked well on that engine.

I'm learning as I go with the Y Block and I like it very much. Today, I installed the Pertronix unit and the engine fired right up. After about 10 minutes of running, the engine started to misfire. Taking the distributor cap off revealed shavings from the magnetic ring that rubs against the unit. (This is a no air gap setup.) I cleaned these out, re-installed the magnetic unit and she fired right up on all cylinders. Ten minutes later, same misfiring. This time I cleaned up the distributor and put a thin coat of dielectric grease on the magnetic ring and re-installed. Will test again tomorrow to see if this helps.

Has anyone else had and experience like this? I'm wondering if my distributor shaft has a wobble??

Appreciate any and all help you all can provide this newby!

 

[40cpe]

Un less something has changed, there should be an air gap between the igniter and the magnetic ring. Move the igniter away from the ring about .030" and try it.

 

[RKS.PA]

Un less something has changed, there should be an air gap between the igniter and the magnetic ring. Move the igniter away from the ring about .030" and try it.

Thank you 40cpe, I will try that tomorrow and report back. The instructions for the 1282 say to be sure the ring is seated, but the air gap isn't needed. (My experience suggests maybe it is!!)

 

[dmsfrr]

. . . After about 10 minutes of running, the engine started to misfire. . . .

. . . I'm wondering if my distributor shaft has a wobble??
Appreciate any and all help you all can provide this newby!

Misfire - -
Did you remove and bypass the original Ballast Resistor? If not, the module will be getting an incorrect lower voltage and usually will not operate properly.
Or... you may need to change the ignition coil to one that doesn't need an external resistor. Yours might be getting too hot from the slightly higher voltage???

Dist shaft wobble - -
The distributor has an oil fitting for the upper shaft bushing. They were often overlooked, causing excessive wear and allowing the shaft to wobble.

 

[paul2748]

I have a Pertronix II in my 56 Bird. The instructions say to have a gap. They supply a plastic piece to set the gap. Call Pertronix. I understand they are are good for service calls. Mine runs great.

 

[40cpe]

More thought on this: You just bought the car, do you know which distributor is in the car? Sometimes the '56 load o matic distributor is changed out to the later mechanical/vacuum advance distributor. According to Pertronix they take different units.

 

[RKS.PA]

Thank you all! I removed the resistor and pretty sure the dist. is the original Load o Matic.

Also, I made sure I'm getting a full 12 volts to the positive terminal of the unit. And, I also replaced the original coil with the recommended Flame Thrower.

Today, I'm going to see what I can do to move the unit out .030 or so to see if that corrects the wear issue.

Thanks, too, for the recommendation to call Pertronix tech support!!

 

[paul2748]

You can tell what distributor you have by removing the cap and looking inside. On the 55/56 distributor you can see the advance springs. On the 57 and later, the springs are not visible.

 

[RKS.PA]

You can tell what distributor you have by removing the cap and looking inside. On the 55/56 distributor you can see the advance springs. On the 57 and later, the springs are not visible.

Thank you, Paul. I did that and can see the advance springs, so I have an original LoadoMatic. And I did oil the unit.

Also, I called Pertronix tech support and found out that although the instructions say "Air gap adjustments are not needed." Old, Never Did This Before, Richard had mounted the unit using the three alternative mounting holes in the lower plate such that the magnetic ring and the ignitor unit were touching each other....no air gap here!!! Using the center hole created a space between the two parts of about 1/16th of an inch and it cured my problem!!!

She's running great now!! I feel pretty confident in my knowledge of early Fords, but this later one is a whole new ball game!!! I did successfully replace the rear main seal and installed a new oil pump to stop the leaks....so far so good on that one, but I know these engines have inherited the "seal issues" from their older brothers!!!

Once again the Ford Barn has saved the day for me!! Thank you to those who responded to my request for help!!

Regards....Dick.