Ordered Snyders 6.0 head, now a couple quick questions

Smokedtires

Smokedtires

Senior Member
1st, it looks like it comes in natural metal finish. I ordered a quart of engine green to paint it before installing. Aside from cleaning oils from the surface, should I consider spraying it with primer before applying the green paint?

Second question refers to removing the old original head from the block. Les Andrew's book says to drain coolant, then loosen all head nuts slightly then starting the engine until it stops d/t head being loosened from block. Any thoughts on this method?
 
Smokedtires said:
Les Andrew's book says to drain coolant, then loosen all head nuts slightly then starting the engine until it stops d/t head being loosened from block. Any thoughts on this method?
Click to expand...

I've never heard of actually starting the engine to remove the head, but a common tactic is to remove the head nuts and then crank the starter without the key on. If the head is not stuck, the piston compression should pop it loose.
 
I would clean it with a little lacquer thinner and then use a brush to paint. No primer needed. I would not start it to get the head off. Just bump it over if needed.
 
Okay sounds good. Thanks everyone. Hoping to tackle the painting this weekend, then the install as we get closer to warmer weather.
 
check head before installing for straightness with straight edge , just checked one 2.5 thou hollow in middle , need to get it resurfaced, two identical heads both new one has less relief over the piston area, ??? Stinking hot day in NZ
 
I agree no primer. After cleaning it with lacquer thinner or acetone warm it with a torch to the point of being a bit uncomfortable to handle and paint it warm.

Be sure to tape or plug the holes for the spark plugs so the threads remain bare. Same with the holes for the studs and for the distributor.
 
1crosscut said:
I agree no primer. After cleaning it with lacquer thinner or acetone warm it with a torch to the point of being a bit uncomfortable to handle and paint it warm.

Be sure to tape or plug the holes for the spark plugs so the threads remain bare. Same with the holes for the studs and for the distributor.
Click to expand...


Won’t the stud and distributor bores rust if you don’t paint them?
 
I agree to paint it bare after a good cleaning.

I use the method of loosening the nuts then starting the engine. My engine never starts as the compression immediately loosens the head. My head studs are not stuck in the block and I take as many out as I can before removing the head. I use the double nut method to remove any studs that need a little persuasion.

You will be happy with the 6.0 head. The combustion chamber shape is excellent. Remember that you won't need nearly as much ignition advance.
 
alexiskai said:
Won’t the stud and distributor bores rust if you don’t paint them?
Click to expand...

I believe the bare metal is needed for a good ground for the distributor. I just smear a bit of oil on the sides of the bore before installing the distributor.

Usually a fairly tight fit for the studs so paint just makes it more difficult to slip the head down over the studs. Pretty much any moisture getting into the studs would be from a leaking head gasket. If one is using a modern coolant I don't think that rust will be much of an issue.
 
I would paint it in the house, this time of yr. I have no garage heat.


then their is the wifes oven, for a bit of baking.........
 
My experience is that the run engine to pop the head technique rarely works, and if it does work it is usually on a recent head installation. I also find that stuffing the cylinders with rope rarely works. I use this technique with a lot of success:
 

Attachments

  • Cylinder Head Removal – Lumber Technique 188kb.jpg
    Cylinder Head Removal – Lumber Technique 188kb.jpg
    58.6 KB · Views: 184
So many great tips. Thanks everyone, these will all come in handy. My car is an older restoration so crossing my fingers the head and studs come off without too much trouble.
 
Don’t you have to loosen the distributor hold down screw as well? Seems like if the head pops up, then that would stress something out? Maybe it doesn’t move enough to matter?
 
Chuck Sea/Tac said:
Don’t you have to loosen the distributor hold down screw as well? Seems like if the head pops up, then that would stress something out? Maybe it doesn’t move enough to matter?
Click to expand...

What is there to be stressed? When the head lifts, the tongue on the distributor drive disengages from the slot either at the camshaft drive end or at the bottom of the distributor, the distributor stops turning and the motor stops running. Nothing to do with the distributor has any stress.
There is no reason the distributor couldn't be left in the head when it comes off.
 
I agree, check for flatness, just had to surface one .005
To mask the spark plug holes and distributor hole or any other round hole cut a piece
of paper and roll it up and insert in the hole before you paint. ( Roll in a cylindrical shape
don't ball it up) Easy masking.
 
I use copper anti seize on studs and distributor holes. Primer that is not Hi Temp may peel all off no need for it with engine paint
 
Head is painted. Flatness was less than .0025. Now waiting for warmer temperatures to start the installation process. . Thanks all.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top