Engine stuck. Suggestions?

Red Mark

Red Mark

Junior Member
Looking for some suggestions for getting my '30 coupe engine unstuck. I was last working on the rear end last fall and before winter. I went to roll it over with the hand crank (which I make a habit of doing every so often while it's laid-up).This time it was stuck good. I poured oil (Marvel) in the plug holes and let set all winter. I'm just getting back to work on the car & it's still not turning over. Now I've got issues at both ends of the car:mad:. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks!
 
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I used an end plate with a broken alignment ring, a broken starter drive, a piece of 5/8" rod, and a large nut to make this tool for getting engines unstuck. Or, at least give it a good try! :D

Short of having a tool like this, I'd remove the starter and use a good prybar against the flywheel teeth, using the starter hole as a fulcrum.
 
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SWEET TOOL, Tom! I'll be rummaging thru my spares tomorrow. I assume by your post that there is more leverage at the flywheel than at the hand crank? Not comfortable with the hand crank. Pulling up = pulled back muscles. Pushing down = skinned knuckles. Nothing good can come of it. Thanks for the info.
 
Red Mark said:
SWEET TOOL, Tom! I'll be rummaging thru my spares tomorrow. I assume by your post that there is more leverage at the flywheel than at the hand crank? Not comfortable with the hand crank. Pulling up = pulled back muscles. Pushing down = skinned knuckles. Nothing good can come of it. Thanks for the info.
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Thanks,
Yes, this does offer much more leverage. Since the starter drive has 10 teeth and the flywheel has 112 teeth, you can divide 10 into the number of flywheel teeth (112) to figure the mechanical advantage, which is 11.2 to 1. And then you use a large box wrench on the nut and you'll have some REAL leverage. Just don't go ape and break the flywheel teeth.:eek:

You're right that nothing good can come from cranking too hard on the crankshaft bolt. You could try the hand crank, but don't try too much leverage on the bolt by using a socket and large breaker bar. A few weeks ago someone said he's now trying to remove the broken bolt from trying this.

Unless water got into the engine, I can't imagine it's too stuck from setting a year or two. One other thing that will stick an engine is running it for ONLY a few minutes, then letting it set for 6 months. I found this out the hard way in the 70's when I ran my 29 Chevy and 63 Studebaker for about 5 to 10 minutes only, then let them set for 6 months. Both engines need to come apart now.:mad: I no longer like to start any engine unless it's going to run at least 30 minutes or more.
 
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When this happened to me, I tried the MMO in the spark plug holes and still had no luck. I pulled the head and whacked the top of each piston with a hammer on a block of wood until I hit the one that was stuck. It popped free right away. I put it all back together with a new head gasket and the engine ran fine. I'm sure there was a mark on the cylinder walls where the rings stuck but I did not have time to mess with it.
 
Did you do anything between the last time the engine was free and when it was stuck? Maybe replace the starter and use to bolts that were too long and jammed against the flywheel?

Charlie Stephens
 
Just purchased a '29 Roadster Pickup that was driven into a garage and sat (not run or driven) for 23 years. Haven't done anything mechanical as of yet. When I get to the engine I will keep everyone posted.

Jerry
 
Charlie Stephens said:
Did you do anything between the last time the engine was free and when it was stuck? Maybe replace the starter and use to bolts that were too long and jammed against the flywheel?

Charlie Stephens
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Haven't touched the engine. It's up on jack stands while I do some rear end work. I just like to roll it over with the hand crank every few months to keep things loose. This time, no such luck. It was fine 10 months ago, so I don't think it'll be too difficult to break loose. But, it's not happening with the hand crank. Thanks for all the advice.
 
I've had what seemed to be a stuck engine several times, and it was the starter drive jammed onto the flywheel teeth. I learned, probably on this forum, that putting the car in 3rd gear and rocking it backward will cause the engine to turn in reverse and pop itself loose. You'll know when it frees up. There will be a loud metallic clank. Worth a try.

Always a humbling experience when you have friends along for a ride and a crowd gathered around the car to hear it start up. That's when it always seemed to happen.

BTW, the problem went away when I changed over to one of the new starter drives.
 
I want to thank Tom Wesenberg for the tool idea. I have had an engine in a doodlebug that a fellow wanted, but not in its stuck condition. We tried the oil, crank and everything else mentioned above (didn't want to take the head off) with no luck. When out in the parts boxes, found everything and an hour later had the tool made and bolted on - slight no effort turn with the wrench and it was free, with no strain on the engine. His idea for the tool is excellant.
 
JTW, the credit should go to Jim Mason, as I first saw that tool on his website some years ago.:D

Don't you just love AMERICAN made tools that really work!:)
 
Does anybody know that when you put oil in spark plug holes it is above the valves not the pistons. Good Luck with your problems.
 
gunmetal blue said:
Does anybody know that when you put oil in spark plug holes it is above the valves not the pistons. Good Luck with your problems.
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After reading Gunmetal Blue's post I thought to myself "Of course I know that, but it will undoubtably run into the cylinders". Then, I realized that most of those valves are sitting open, and most of the MMO is simply running into a manifold. He has a good point. You really need to snake a tube over to the cylinder side, then fill thru the tube. It's easy to forget you are working with a flathead.
Sometimes it's the obvious stuff that's the hardest to see. I'm still looking for a bendix gear to make one of those tools. Thanks again for all the help.
 
I used a oil can squirter and yes some drained down the exhaust but alot made it to the cylenders and it broke free using the crank tool on the front..... also Ive heard you can push it with the trans in gear and it will help bust it loose but I wasnt brave enough to try that
 
SUCCESS!!!:D
A prybar against the flywheel teeth worked like a charm. Very little effort required. Thanks to all for the advice.

Now, I can paint the starter while it's off.
 
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