An Introduction and a First Early Ford

Uh Oh! That is a later backing plate from a 1939 to 42? I think. You've got Hydraulic brakes! For all that's worth! Some guys love em. Some don't! Granted they're a larger diameter and wider shoe. But they seem to bind up when left alone for a while. and don't use a single master cylinder. Call Speedway Motors and get their catalog. They have a lot restoration, and hot rodding parts that you may consider using. I know they had a Chev two port (2cyl) master Cylinder rebuilt for $35 they were selling. Call them at 1-800-979-0122.
Terry
 
I thought I mentioned this… previous owner was in the process of putting ‘46-‘48 juice brakes and tube shocks on this. I’m rebuilding ALL mechanical brakes. The ONLY Model A brake components remaining on the chassis are the pedal and the E-brake crossshaft. Luckily, I have collected components and I’m starting to sort things out. Ya just don’t realize how many bits and bobs there are to the brakes until you start with… nothing. Ha.

No juice brakes on this car. Maybe on the Tudor daily driver that has yet to be purchased. Gotta sell the ‘63 Cutlass before that happens though…
 
Today I had my “fatigue” day, and Spencer and I dove into our projects. I didn’t get as far as I had hoped… I need to remember that things take a bit longer when working with an apprentice. But we did get the rebuilt water pump in and the cracked water neck replaced with an original part. Spencer does NOT like the smell or the feel of Kroil on his hands. Dad has made note.
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Not too bad inside. This is my first look of any sort inside the engine.
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In other news, a friend from the HAMB put eyes on the Phaeton body I was making a deal for. Looks like we’re still looking for a 4-seat open car body for Spencer’s soup job, folks.
 
So while we're still searching for a body and I'm sorting through brake parts that I've sourced through friends (you don't know how many bits and bobs there are until you start with zero brakes on a chassis...), and laying out the new wiring harness... I've been thinking on what we want out of the motor. Something just a step or two up from stock. So, I have my thoughts, what are some of your thoughts?
 
There's (amazingly) almost no wear on the head casting where the water pump shaft rides. Maybe 1/64". Therefore almost zero endplay in the pump. I was prepared with a shaft collar if needed, but thanks for the check! I'll need those as I go through this and I'm sure I'll overlook something.

R
 
Welcome and I may have missed it, but check that fan VERY carefully. They have tendency to crack and come apart. Get one of the new aluminum fans.

Mike
 
Yes! Original fans (two blade) are very dangerous. Four blade, not so much. But I still worry. The story with the two blades is that Henry made some errors here and there and the Model A two blade fan is one of them.. The blades are two pieces laminated together and as with most laminations, moisture gets between them and they rust from the inside out. You never see it. But you sure see it when the ole banger revs up and tosses a blade out through your hood. Really, they can be dangerous as heck! As Mike says, get a new aluminum ASAP. Right now, The only other really dangerous part on the car is the rear spring. These also are deadly. Do Not Attempt to Take one Off Without a Springspreader
Somewhere in the history of the model A, someone's been killed by this part! I don't know it for a fact, but I'm sure of it! I made a spring spreader out of 3/4 " pipe and ready rod. It twisted that pipe and 3/4 - 10 threaded rod and and sent a piece past my right leg at warp speed , had it hit me, I'd still be limping if I was lucky enough to save the leg. The best parts is, I was warned, but the old "How much can it be?" prevailed. To change the subject, There will be a swap meet in Rieglesville (Bucks Co) Nov 6,about the last for the year. Don't know how far is Mifflinburg, but I like this show. Plenty of people, but not crowded, just a friendly bunch of car lovers. Hope to see you and Spencer!
Terry
 
I’m running a 4-blade fan at the moment, and I’ve gone over it. Seems good. But I take what you say to heart. I recently had an opportunity to advise a young man in the parts store against a flex fan for his truck.

I’m a bit away from taking the rear spring out, but I absolutely won’t do it without the right tool and everything wrapped in chain. I’ve successfully avoided even a close call due to suspension components and stored energy thus far on my old stuff. Is one of the suppliers’ spreaders considered better than the others?

Rieglesville is only about two hours from home. This project is likely going to 7 days for the duration, so it’s tough to say if I’ll have that day off.
 
I Rarely buy what I can make. So a friend of mine was building a race car and had some scrap chrome-moly tubing he would have eventually junked. It was 1 1/4" I.D. and from that I fabricated a spring spreader that I have used successfully several times.
Terry
 
I just about have my brake situation sorted - Model A rears with new cast drums, 32 fronts. Ted's Floaters all around. Need to order Ted's kit, "consumables" like springs, grease seals, etc. I'm short the e-brake handle and ALL rods. Getting close.

I've been thinking more and more on what we want out of the motor. Something just a step or two up from stock. So, I have my thoughts, what are some of your thoughts? Anyone run dual UPdrafts?
 
Better fix up the compression first. Next bore your A manifold to B specs and put a B carb on it. About the CR ratio, 4.2 is pretty lame. You can cut the stock head down about 1/8" (.125) Or you can get a Police Head, or you can get a mod. B head with a 3 bolt water pump,(about $ 125) or you can get a new Snyder's head 5.5 to 6 CR for $325 plus. There are some cam grinders (Jim Breirly in this group is one) who can fix you up with an improved cam. There are others Bill Stipe is another. Multi Carb. and Downdraft manifolds are available . Then there's lightening the flywheel and other things you candors to keep up with traffic. But first get it running and see what you're dealing with.
Terry
 
I’ll certainly get everything running well stock, first. Promise. :)

I have a B dizzy sitting on the bench, waiting patiently.

Compression, certainly. I’ve had a couple thoughts on that. I have a buddy with a Police head that could be had, and I like the idea of staying with vintage parts. Stock heads are easy enough to come by for short money, and taking .125” is straightforward enough… does that give reliable results? I like the DIY approach to that. Also feel ok trying my hand at porting on a stock head when the time comes for something like that. Likely the most reasonable and achievable approach is a Snyder’s 6:1. Known results and all that.

Interesting to note: my buddy’s T gow job has a stock head but bumped compression from domed pistons. Come to think of it… that’s how Buick put out different compression versions of the 215 V8 too. Hmmm….

I don’t think I’m quite ready to go “inside” for cams and flywheels and such just yet. Those things will likely wait until I build up an engine from a block, rather that modify something that seems good but is basically unknown.

Intake and carb(s) are sort of where most of my daydreaming is spent. I’m sure I’m not alone there. Stock first. Boring out the intake to B spec is interesting! I had been told to look for a B carb and manifold, but this is the first mention of modifying the A intake to B bore. I like it.

Most often I hear “Go downdraft and put a Stromberg on it for easy gains” quickly followed by “you’ll probably need a fuel pump” and then “and definitely a fuel pressure regulator.” Ha. I actually like the idea of dual updrafts if going a step above a B carb and intake. I always wonder what real life difference there is between dual updrafts and a single 97 on the same mild 6:1 Model A banger…
 
A "B" dist. can be good, BUT it's very hard to time with an "A"cam cover I believe the B dist. is 19 degrees off the A dist. It gets confusing!

Boring out an A manifold to B specs is fairly easy but you need a Bridgeport or a healthy drill press and a large angle plate. It involves boring the long 4 "runner with a 1.250 drill. Stock A manifold is a cast finish, 1.125. Then polish it. I used to do it and all my cars have bored mainfolds. Mod. A s starve for fuel and this mod helps a little. Your gain is about 4 hp. Doesn't sound like much, but 4 hp on a 40 hp engine is ten percent. It's relatively cheap mod. You should be able to scrounge a B carb for about $30-40.
Terry
 
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And then...
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…then there were two. Well… 1.5? Almost one? I don’t know. There’s a whole car in here somewhere…
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