tank and fender weltting
- Thread starter Deny1950
- Start date
Mike Peters
Well-known member
Notch out the bolt holes in the welting so that when you install it, the welting will pretty much line up and you will be able to get the mounting bolts through. The gas tanks are the most difficult. Try to slide the tank in from the front with the welting and tank together, mounting holes lined up. Good luck.
Oldbluoval
Well-known member
Not only cut bolt holes…
You will need to cut kerfs in the flat. Maybe 1/2 to 2/3 thru at the curves. Particularly at the tank and cowl. Fender welting goes in pretty well without kerfs until you get to the shield union.
Also the spacer under the windshield goes on before the tank goes in..makes it a lot easier when you get the knack of it.
You will need to cut kerfs in the flat. Maybe 1/2 to 2/3 thru at the curves. Particularly at the tank and cowl. Fender welting goes in pretty well without kerfs until you get to the shield union.
Also the spacer under the windshield goes on before the tank goes in..makes it a lot easier when you get the knack of it.
Big hammer
Well-known member
I made/installed some pulling tabs on the doubled part of the welting, 6-8 inches apart . The pulling tabs where cloth duct tape. Patient and practice ! practice on the fender welt as it’s much easier!
rotorwrench
Well-known member
I'm thankful that I have a sewing machine that I can sew on some tabs in key places to help pull the welting into place. Not all installations require this but I can do it in those situations where it is exceedingly difficult. The welt isn't always long enough on the tail part to be able to grasp it well. The original pyroxylin type welt is much easier to install than the vinyl type. It's not as thick in tail and fits much better.
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
In a nutshell, the best way to install the anti-squeak efficiently is to do it just like Ford did. No need to pull, or tug, or sew tails, ...or any of that nonsense. Just take the time to cut it just like the Ford engineers prescribed.
As a side-note, ever wonder why what we buy commercially available is so difficult to work with? Maybe it is because it is not made like Ford made it!!
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Bill Z
Member
About 4 years ago, on a road trip to Wisconsin, I stopped by the late Roy Nacewics’s place in Michigan to pick up some quality hardware. He was out of tank welting and he graciously took the time to run a few yards through his sewing machine for me. I believe at the time he was the only one using the original Ford pyroxylin material for cowl tank and fender welting. Since Third Generation has taken over, I assume they would be using the same original material. It does make a difference.
rotorwrench
Well-known member
The source for the early style material that the welt was made from came from a company that made hard cover book covers and bindings. The material is a faux leather and is much thinner than vinyl. I've heard that it getting harder to source but Third Gen would be the folks to ask. I could use aircraft grade linen or cotton and coat it with aircraft dope to fill the weave but it would be smooth finish. It can be painted before or after instalation depending on needs.
