Condenser

[John Gibson]

Where does one find a condenser that is the correct diameter and length for the original 32-36 coil? Napa has a guaranteed fit that is probably correct for a Model A, it certainly isn’t correct for 32-36. Napa part is Echlin FA5 and it is .666 inches in diameter whereas the genuine Ford is .75 inches. Length is about the same for both. I can replace ground strap to fit. Genuine Ford condenser is the one on the bottom.
Thanks,
John

 

[35fordtn]

The only condensers that could fit up like a original are left with two options.... The Carpenter 1937-41 Condenser that you could un solder the original brakcet and solder your original on to.. Issue here is the condenser itself is not very high quality..

The Model A condenser I cut the strap off where it overhangs, grind it smooth and solder on my original strap. It is small diameter but otherwise fits and performs well.

 

[Chuck Kuntz]

I have some NORS 32-36 condensers (Most are Standard Brand) for $15 each.

 

[TerryOH]

Unless your car is a 4 Cyl I would stay away from the model A condensers. They do not have the correct electrical characteristics as the V8 condensers.

 

[35fordtn]

Unless your car is a 4 Cyl I would stay away from the model A condensers. They do not have the correct electrical characteristics as the V8 condensers.

The Model A's are .24 mfd a original is a .36.. This would be no issue unless you left your car sitting for hours idling.. I have 8k miles on a Model A condenser in a V8 no pitting on the points or any issues.

Went this route after two NOS condensers left me stranded

 

[tubman]

I have spent a lot of time working with condensers. I have found that the actual rating in micro-farads is not that important. An engine will run fine over a wide range, the only difference being in the wear (material transfer) on the points.

That being said, a .24 μF is probably a better match to a "modern" coil than one rated at .36 μF. And just about every engine out there is using a "modern" coil, since most of the original coils have deteriorated to the state that they are no longer usable. I believe this is the case even for the vaunted "Skip's coils" that are so widely used.

 

[Bored&Stroked]

Old NOS condensers are usually the WRONG way to go . . . as they've deteriorated over time and are usually bad right out of the box, or will soon go bad.

 

[John Gibson]

Here’s my updated Model A condenser on the top of the photo. Laser welded and never got hot enough that I couldn’t hold in in my hands. This particular one is the NAPA one that has a “Guaranteed Fit”. Ha
John

 

[petehoovie]

Here’s my updated Model A condenser on the top of the photo. Laser welded and never got hot enough that I couldn’t hold in in my hands. This particular one is the NAPA one that has a “Guaranteed Fit”. Ha
John

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

I'm using this modern condensor that I fitted into the casing of an original '33 to '36 condensor. This turned out perfectly and looks like the original setup when in place on distributor. I've put about 2000 miles on my '35 fordor sedan using this condensor, and so far the engine has not missed a beat. Planning to make more of these for back up and friends who want to try these.

 

[John Gibson]

Wiring diagram for 33 through 36 V8’s shows a red wire connecting to the condenser and the coil. Condenser is shown with a ground. In this attached photo there appears to be a connector on the condenser that is missing a wire. My 36 doesn’t have a wire either. How is the condenser wired up?
John

 

[rockfla]

John
The condenser slides into the coil and is held in place by the roundhead slot machine screw, that’s where the condenser derives the power. On the opposite end the soldered on ground strap gets grounded and sandwiched between the distributor and block by one of the mounting bolts, that’s all, there is NO wire that get attached to the condenser. The only wire In that area that gets attached is the Ignition wire to the coil lug.

 

[petehoovie]

John
The condenser slides into the coil and is held in place by the roundhead slot machine screw, that’s where the condenser derives the power. On the opposite end the soldered on ground strap gets grounded and sandwiched between the distributor and block by one of the mounting bolts, that’s all, there is NO wire that get attached to the condenser. The only wire In that area that gets attached is the Ignition wire to the coil lug.

 

[John Gibson]

After scratching my head, reading everything that was posted on the Barn, doing a lot of reading the mystery has been solved! The culprit is shown here on this message. Engine would run, but wouldn’t rev up much at all. Rube Goldberg engineering at its best! Thanks to all who chimed in and helped.
John

 

[petehoovie]

After scratching my head, reading everything that was posted on the Barn, doing a lot of reading the mystery has been solved! The culprit is shown here on this message. Engine would run, but wouldn’t rev up much at all. Rube Goldberg engineering at its best! Thanks to all who chimed in and helped.
John

 

[ndnchf]

Reviving an old thread.

I see a couple of you have soldered a strap onto a new model A condenser for use in a '32-'36 distributor. I'm thinking of doing the same thing for my '35 distributor. I like the so-called burnout proof model A condensers sold by Snyders, Brattons etc. They are more expensive, but especially made to take the intense heat of their location in a model A distributor right above the exhaust manifold. I run one in my '31 model A. It seems they would have the best chance of surviving the heat used to solder on a '35 type grounding strap.

For those who have done it, are they holding up well?

Thanks,
Steve

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

Update on my previous post #10 from last year. That magneto capacitor shown in my old post is working like a champ! I'll never use an original stock capacitor again, either old used or NOS, except to salvage the can/case, and use it to mount that magneto capacitor shown in my post from last year.

 

[petehoovie]

Update on my previous post #10 from last year. That magneto capacitor shown in my old post is working like a champ! I'll never use an original stock capacitor again, except to salvage the can and use it to mount that magneto capacitor shown in my post from last year.

 

[ndnchf]

Well I had an extra high quality "burnout proof" model A condenser, so decided to try soldering the V8 condenser bracket to it. First the model A bracket was cut off, then the surface tinned. Then the bracket was removed from the dead V8 condenser. First the solder was melted, but found it riveted in place too. So drilled out the rivet and removed it. Then soldered it to the new condenser. The new condenser is slightly smaller in diameter, but should work fine.

The soldering heat had no ill effects on the condenser. It read .246mfd before and after soldering. Then it was put on my Herbrand coil and condenser tester and checked under load with a coil. It worked just fine.

So I think I have a suitable replacement.

 

[Brendan]

Unless your car is a 4 Cyl I would stay away from the model A condensers. They do not have the correct electrical characteristics as the V8 condensers.

after you change the strap the Model A condenser works fine, i have had one in my 36 pickup for 5 years