1940 Oil Filter Question

Hi All. New to the forum and new to flatheads. I have a 1940 Deluxe Convertible that I just acquired and have a few questions:

I can't find the filter the label on the canister calls for. There is a Fram C4 filter in there now, and can't find that either. All the cross references I can find seem to be a smaller diameter.

I don't understand how this filter is supposed to work?? The oil comes in from the side and drains back to the block at the bottom. The oil doesn't seem to be forced through the filter. How does this work? Those of you with similar arrangements, what are you using for a replacement? Here are a couple of pics.

Thanks in advance,
Nick
 

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Napa 1006 is the filter element. It's a partial flow filter, so some of the oil is directed through the filter and drains directly back into the pan.
 
You have the flow correct, once the oil enters the filter housing it passes through the filter and then into the upright tube which is connected to the oil return line. The replacement filter has seals on the top and bottom to keep the filtered oil inside the filter. The filter housing and it's cap seal off the two ends of the filter.

I don't believe the oil filter housing you have is original to 1940. The 40 oil pan does not have the ability to recieve the oil return line, which is a flex hose that has a couple of different connections points for the returned oil into the engine not the pan.
I suggest you look to the V8 Club for the 1940 restoration book. It is a very good source of reference.
 
Thanks Stud and Terry. I have a Wix 51006, which should be identical to the Napa 1006, although it is a bit smaller in diameter than the C4 currently in there. The upright tube in mine has no holes or perforations for the oil to enter. There are only four holes where the tube is connected to the bottom of the canister for the oil to drain. These holes are below the bottom of the filter. So Terry, you may be right that it's some aftermarket arrangement. But I still don't see how it does any good. The filter will get soaked with oil while the engine is running, and maybe just drain out when the car is shut off? Still a mystery to me.
 
You have the flow correct, once the oil enters the filter housing it passes through the filter and then into the upright tube which is connected to the oil return line. The replacement filter has seals on the top and bottom to keep the filtered oil inside the filter. The filter housing and it's cap seal off the two ends of the filter.

I don't believe the oil filter housing you have is original to 1940. The 40 oil pan does not have the ability to recieve the oil return line, which is a flex hose that has a couple of different connections points for the returned oil into the engine not the pan.
I suggest you look to the V8 Club for the 1940 restoration book. It is a very good source of reference.

Terry, no surprise that you are correct. That appears to be a '41.
 
Thanks Merc. I might have missed those holes if they're that small. Will look again next time I take the cap off. Kube, are you saying the filter setup is '41? Or the whole engine? There is a 59 cast into the top of the bell housing. Is a 59 the same as a 59AB?
Thanks again,
Nick
 
59a would be the engine series, noted by the 59 on the back. 59ab on the heads means they fit either side. 42-48 engines.
 
Thanks Merc. I might have missed those holes if they're that small. Will look again next time I take the cap off. Kube, are you saying the filter setup is '41? Or the whole engine? There is a 59 cast into the top of the bell housing. Is a 59 the same as a 59AB?
Thanks again,
Nick

I can't say for certain what you have there other than the 59 denotes a '42 - '48 block as stated in a previous post.
The only year that had a boss on the oil pan - near the front, was 1941. In '42, the threaded boss was integral of the dipstick mounting bracket.
The filter you have will work fine as it is set up.
 
As most of these engines of that era, things have been changed, updated to make a very usable automobile. If you are not into concourse correct, judged autos, just drive the pants off it. Kube has a definitive knowledge of the "Correct" 1940 Ford Automobiles and even has a book available through the Early Ford V-8 Club website. Enjoy your purchase and I'm just wondering if that was through the recent Mecum Dallas event? A lot of nice Early Ford vehicles to drool at.
 
Thanks cas3 and Kube. Both heads have an "A" cast in the center.
Nick

The heads will not correctly identify the block. Many 24 stud flathead engine components can be interchanged.

It may not matter too you, the fuel pump is incorrect for 1940. Although the one you have will work fine.
 
Thanks cas3 and Kube. Both heads have an "A" cast in the center.
Nick

Nice looking engine. It appears they rebuilt a later 59 motor and re-used the original "A" heads from your 40 car. Nice! Can you share some pictures of your car?

Patrick
 
Thanks for all the responses. I've always been a Chevy guy, so got a lot to learn about Fords and flatheads!!

New tires going on tomorrow. Will take some pics and post then.
Thanks,
Nick
 
Ford must have figured that this optional bypass filter did some good. According the "1940 Service Data Handbook" that came with my '40 2 door, the oil was to be changed every 2,000 miles unless equipped with an oil filter. With filter, oil was to be changed every 5,000 miles, and the filter element every 10,000 miles.
 
PS - Just ordered Kube's 1940 Ford book.
Nick

It's a good read. This book, the 1932 books and the 1935-1936 books should be NY Times best sellers. I have no idea why they aren't?

Have you considered joining the Early Ford V8 Club? The magazine is with worth the small price. National Meets are a lot of fun too.
 
Ford must have figured that this optional bypass filter did some good. According the "1940 Service Data Handbook" that came with my '40 2 door, the oil was to be changed every 2,000 miles unless equipped with an oil filter. With filter, oil was to be changed every 5,000 miles, and the filter element every 10,000 miles.

I'm thinking that was akin to "average miles per gallon" we see these days. Some truth and some embellishment.

Not change the oil for 5000 miles in 1940? I suppose if you were excepting to replace the engine at 35,000 miles that would've been fine.
Even through the 1960's most cars (with MUCH better oils) were suggesting 2000 / 2500 mile intervals.
Methinks a tad heavy on the "embellishment" and a tad light on the "truth" back then.
 
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