Oil pressure problem

The way I see it, without that pickup added, the effective oil level is 1 1/2" lower, and the pump could easily cavitate through not having the pickup low enough in the pan. I think that is your problem Rudolph.
 
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Brian said:
The way I see it, without that pickup added, the effective oil level is 1 1/2" higher, and the pump could easily cavitate through not having the pickup low enough in the pan. I think that is your problem Rudolph.
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I will give it a go, but this is the only engine that I have seen with a tube like that, the other round tin things i can see were never intended to have one, I will have to grind out where they have swaged a plate into the bottom to fit it as the tin pan for this pick up is too rusty and thin to use.

Should there be some kind of seal on the oil pump to block?
 
jimvette59 said:
The original oiling system has a .060 " restricter in it and 1/4 " lines. I use a restricter at the gauges also. Those lines look humongus JMO
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That is if you're running a cartridge Fram type bypass filter that dumps the outlet into the pan. Without the restrictor, you'll lose a lot of oil pressure and probably the cannister would leak all over the place.

His situation is different (he has a modified block that forces the oil out one port, through the filter and back into the oil galley) - it is not a bypass style system.
 
One thing I wonder is we made the fittings and line from the block bigger, i am running the early long body pump, I am using a Windsor spin on oil filter, it had 30 psi at idol and 40 when driving. Wondering if i should bypass the oil filter for a bit and see if that helps
 
I'd say just fit that pickup part and see what happens. There should be gaskets between the pickup tube and the can and the can and the pump adaptor. (I think).

I have had some success fitting O rings at the base of the pump. The French pump uses an O ring here. I use 3 smaller O rings and make sure the pump fits flush.

Mart.
 
Mart said:
I'd say just fit that pickup part and see what happens. There should be gaskets between the pickup tube and the can and the can and the pump adaptor. (I think).

I have had some success fitting O rings at the base of the pump. The French pump uses an O ring here. I use 3 smaller O rings and make sure the pump fits flush.

Mart.
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Yes going to fit that pick up, it was swaged to the outer tin pan but i will put a gasket in between both parts and the bolts will bold it on.

I wonder to if the relefe valve is sticky? The one in the front of the block. I am going to dedicate this week to the problem
 
Rudolph said:
One thing I wonder is we made the fittings and line from the block bigger, i am running the early long body pump, I am using a Windsor spin on oil filter, it had 30 psi at idol and 40 when driving. Wondering if i should bypass the oil filter for a bit and see if that helps
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You don't need to isolate your oil filter, and the diameter of the fittings won't effect the pressure.
 
I cut oil filter #3 open, engine has probably done 350 miles, no bearing chunks, was a slight amount of small partials in the puddle in the bottom of the filter housing but probably ok for an old engine witch is still running in,
 
I put that pick up tube inside the screen holder and got a copper oil pressure gauge line and moved it down to the filter outlet and not the block, also got a better quality non automotive oil pressure gauge and took it apart and brazed on a tube for a light bulb and deleted the brand name from the face.

I am running 20W50 oil now, for the temperature and the hard grind up the hills, about 10 psi difference when at idol but it dosnt go over 40 psi.
 
Brian said:
it didn't go over 40 lbs before did it? Hopefully you've sorted it once and for all.
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It may of been it sucking a bit of air and a crappy oil gauge.

Hot oil pressure is basically the same with 10w30 and 20w50 when driving but idols with more pressure on 20w50
 
Have the baffles in the oil pan been removed? If so oil may be moving away from the oil pump pick up. There should be a gasket between the round metal cup and the oil pump body
 
I took the releaf valve out just to be on the safe side and found compared to another spring and plunger it was a bit different in every dimension, I had a brand new springs the correct length and a plunger out of another motor, installed it and oil pressure behavior is dramatically different, it seems to stay at 30 psi at 1000 rpm instead of 45 psi.
 

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Rudolph said:
I took the releaf valve out just to be on the safe side and found compared to another spring and plunger it was a bit different in every dimension, I had a brand new springs the correct length and a plunger out of another motor, installed it and oil pressure behavior is dramatically different, it seems to stay at 30 psi at 1000 rpm instead of 45 psi.
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505290
 
The top of the plunger I removed from the motor is more pointy, i think it may of been hanging up on the side of the tapper and not seating sometimes.
 
Went for a drive, weather is pretty hot, has about 30 or more psi when Starting from cold, when it warmed up it dropped down to 25 psi at idol and and is around 27 at 1000 rpm, its very steady now, I am thinking that heavy spring may have been something to do with the funny readings.
 
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