1934 generator help

34 fordor owner

34 fordor owner

Senior Member
My 34 has been running amazingly since getting it started. but now I want to move on to making sure it’s charging so I can drive a little farther and not worry about being stranded. Would i need the whole generator rebuilt or would I just need a new regulator? Here is a picture of what I think is the regulator.
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Is the generator charging at all? What does the ammeter show? If it shows it's charging, just drive it around the block a few times and if it all looks good, drive the wheels off of it.
And yes, your picture is of the cut out which was used before the voltage regulator was used.
 
Although I can tell a cutout from a voltage regulator, I am an 8BA guy with no specific knowledge. It seems our young friend here is unfamiliar with the charging systems on pre-39 DeLuxe Fords. Perhaps it would help if one of the more experienced members would explain this in more detail, especially the function of the "third brush".
 
tubman said:
Although I can tell a cutout from a voltage regulator, I am an 8BA guy with no specific knowledge. It seems our young friend here is unfamiliar with the charging systems on pre-39 DeLuxe Fords. Perhaps it would help if one of the more experienced members would explain this in more detail, especially the function of the "third brush".
Click to expand...

I have a brief video about 3rd brush adjustment. While I show a model A generator, the adjustment is the same.

https://youtu.be/PL94VX3GIq8
 
Your cut out is an early aftermarket replacement missing the cover. The pulley should be held to the armature by a 5/16 castle nut and cotter pin. With all the electrical tape on the generator wires I would suggest you have the generator rebuilt. New sealed bearings in the front and have the rear bushing replaced. have new Ford brushes installed and have the internals cleaned and the wires replaced. Then you will have some piece of mind.
 
Alright I plan to have it rebuilt and do a little more learning on early ford charging systems. The ammeter is not showing anything at all just sitting in the middle. Another quick question when I go to stop at a stop sign the car sometimes dies even with the clutch in any help on this? Thank you all
 
The front bearings are not sealed, they are two small tapered roller bearings back to back,do not replace them with a sealed ball bearings, the tapered rollers are there for a reason, to take the fan thrust.
Lawrie
 
The replacement for the original open double front bearings is two sealed bearings. The two bearings can take the load of the belt better than the original bearings and fit the front housing without modification. Many of the aftermarket suppliers sell a kit for the change, sometimes the kit included a new rear bushing.
 
I have been in contact with someone who is going to get me set up with a rebuilder that is an hour away from where I’m at and also get me a new cut out. If anyone could help me figure out the stalling out issue when I stop it would be awesome. Thank you all again.
 
I would suggest you consider the NuRex cutout; it incorporates a diode (and heat sink). The cover does not have the Ford script, but otherwise presents well.
 
Stalling could be several things. Start with the least expensive. Look at the Carburetor float height adjustment. adjust the Carb. idle mixture screws for the highest vacuum reading. Should be steady at about 20" check spark plug gaps, check continuity of all plug wires (all should be solid wire core with nearly 0 Ohm resistance).
 
Terry said:
Stalling could be several things. Start with the least expensive. Look at the Carburetor float height adjustment. adjust the Carb. idle mixture screws for the highest vacuum reading. Should be steady at about 20" check spark plug gaps, check continuity of all plug wires (all should be solid wire core with nearly 0 Ohm resistance).
Click to expand...


Finally got time to check my float height but I’m a little confused on where it needs to be set though. Other posts say 1 11/32 but after a watching a Charles price video on Holley 94 he says 1 5/16. Also I can’t find the tool they give you in kits for the height but heard it can be made from cardboard. Starting at height of float then working down so screws and plug gaps. Thank you!
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11/16 is the fuel level, but you most likely do not have the proper tools to check this level.
With a gauge set to the bottom of the float both sides (not at the soldered seal) from the top casting seal surface, Without a gasket, so height is between 1-3/8 to 1-11/32" with the air horn inverted as shown in your photo. Cut a gauge from rigid paper.
 
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