Remove 1 ton rear brake removal

M

madspeed

Member
Need to replace some leaking wheel cylinders and get the brakes buttoned up. Anyone have a tutorial on how to remove these rears? 39 tonner
 

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!st, place a small drain pan under the end to catch the bearing oil. Next, take off the 8 bolts around the end of the axle. A good whack on the end will usually pop the axle loose. Inside you will find two large nuts with a lock tab holding them. Often times there is not clearance for a normal socket in there so then you need to get one of the thin steel sockets just for this. You may find the last guy took it off with a chisel. Once those nuts are off, the bearing falls out, and the drum slides off.
 
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Should be 3 screws holding drum to hub. If you can't take those out, remove rear axle shaft, bearing retainer nuts, bearings, and slide whole hub/drum off. The axle flange has cone washers, which require you to pound on flange to get them out. May have to back off shoes if the drum has a lip.

Better to focus on removing flathead screws and slide drum off. Panther pee and an impact screw driver will be your friends
 
Ok, got it to this point. I'll need to get a socket that fits this nut. Is it a common size? Largest I have is a 36mm from a Dodge Ram but its no where near large enough. Also, is there a torque spec when reinstalling the nut?
 
Also, I assume the gear oil is normal as its a free floating setup or is there a seal that should be replaced while this is apart? I'll also need new gaskets for the axle to hub, where can those be sourced?
 
When you get the tab bent up and can get the nut off & the lock plate off, could go tighten the inner nut to observe the amount of adjustment, probably less than 1/4 turn. Then if cone and cups look good know what the adjustment should be. I always went snug and back off 1/3 turn, but that was big trucks.
 
I had one of those large sockets that I used for the full-floating hubs on my vintage dirt modified. I got it from Speedway Motors, but that was almost 30 years ago.
 
Ford actually supplied these sockets in tool kits. Hard to find. I have one and traded one to a friend. Had the M for Moore forging.
 
years ago many of the auto parts stores had a variety they would loan out to get the job done. Probably not any more in this world today. 4x4 guys always have them, any of those in your neighborhood ?
 
Rodrelic said:
When you get the tab bent up and can get the nut off & the lock plate off, could go tighten the inner nut to observe the amount of adjustment, probably less than 1/4 turn. Then if cone and cups look good know what the adjustment should be. I always went snug and back off 1/3 turn, but that was big trucks.
Click to expand...

Small world, I'll bet this looks familiar
 

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I should have a NAPA number for the rear oil seal. I will be in the shop in a while and look. I usually make a gasket from a cereal box for the axle flange. Smear both sides with your choice of sealer.
 
Got it all apart and found the rotted wheel cylinder. I'll clean everything up before assembly. Do you recommend painting anything ? What type of lubricant goes on the moving parts, can I use disc brake lube that I have?
 

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I used to use Lubriplate #110 brake lube. Not sure whats in it but a small can has lasted me most of my life.
 
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