Wiring for 12V Gear Reduction Starter

doug.nichols

doug.nichols

Senior Member
I am installing a 12V gear reduction starter from Snyder's. Not quite sure how to wire it up. Can someone take a look at the attached image and tell me if I have it right? Also, does anyone know if this type of starter should have a fuse, and if so, how to wire it into the system?

Thanks
 

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Doug
That will work if the start switch can handle the solenoid draw.
We have been using a small automotive relay on the solenoid circuit to use a smaller start button switch
Run it and let us know
John
 
In addition to any fuse in the solenoid circuit, make sure you have a fuse in the yellow line to the ammeter. 20 to 30 amps.
 
If this starter actually has a solenoid inside the performs some part of the starter action then it could be a fairly high amperage draw. If the unit only has a start relay inside then it may not be all that high an amperage draw or at least no more that a Ford style remote start relay. When they show 14 gauge wires I figure it is high current draw. Many start buttons aren't rated for high amperage.

I don't particularly care for an item that is marketed without giving the proper information for the buyer to work with in order to find parts that will work. For a $250 conversion I'd expect more than just a starter. It's not that easy to come up with a start button these days and a cheapy type would likely fail if it couldn't take the amperage. The least they could do is recommend a part number on the start button. After that it's where do you mount it?

I could rebuild several starter cores for that price.
 
Katy:

The basic drawing (post #1) came with the starter. I added the had written notes. Snyders recommended the 14 ga wire. I made an assumption about where to connect the ammeter wire based on the original wiring of the car. The starter came from Snyders with no instructions.

Doug
 
rotorwrench:

I do not know for sure if the unit has a starter solenoid in it. Similar starters that I see on the web do. This one is distributed by (built by?) Wosp.

Doug
 
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A friend bought one of these starters from Snyders several years ago. He was so "confused" as how to make it work that he gave it to me.

I had already installed a key switch kit that included a solenoid in my pickup. The instructions that were printed on the box the "new" starter came in were sufficient for me to install it with no real problem. Many starts later, it is still working just fine.
 
Or double stack a relay, all my function switches see milliamps to fire a relay that handles the actual load of the function.this allowed me to use a micro switch for brake light for instance.as a benefit the function wiring is minimized as well, I have a milliamp control circuit operating up to 30a load relay.. you can get milliamp controlled relays up to 60a cheap..this is the modern method of automotive electrical circuits..
 

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I used this starter with a key ignition switch and a typical ford starter solenoid, with a 10 gauge jumper wire across the two terminals
 
The picture also shows a 6 volt battery marked as 12 volt. I think a later Ford solenoid might be a good choice to avoid running a heavy current draw into the cab of the car.
 
That starter is a Denso style. They have been used on everything from a Toyota 4cyl to a Cummins in the RAM trucks. Toyota uses a starter relay in their circuit. This is to protect the ignition/starter switch. With a 60A rated button, you shouldn't need a relay.
 
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