UPS Driver
Member
My model a is spitting gas out the carburetor it’s aluminum and says model x on it. I don’t think it’s original? Anyone have words of wisdom?
1929 carburetor
- Thread starter UPS Driver
- Start date
1955cj5
Well-known member
Sounds like a Tillotson.
Where is the gas coming out?
I think you will find that most people will shut down their Model A by first turning off the fuel at the tank valve, and then wait a couple of minutes and the engine will sputter and die of fuel starvation.
This empties the line and the float bowl.
If it still leaks/drips while sitting overnight with the fuel valve off, the fuel valve is probably leaking just enough to eventually fill the float bowl and possibly drip on the floor..
Does you carb look like this?
Where is the gas coming out?
I think you will find that most people will shut down their Model A by first turning off the fuel at the tank valve, and then wait a couple of minutes and the engine will sputter and die of fuel starvation.
This empties the line and the float bowl.
If it still leaks/drips while sitting overnight with the fuel valve off, the fuel valve is probably leaking just enough to eventually fill the float bowl and possibly drip on the floor..
Does you carb look like this?
Attachments
UPS Driver
Member
That’s exactly the carburetor I have! Gas is coming out the opening towards the firewall but only on startup it stops whenever it’s running I do turn gas off just not kill engine with fuel starvation
UPS Driver
Member
While it’s on my mind locally I can obtain ethanol free gasoline is this a good idea for these?
1955cj5
Well-known member
If you turn the fuel valve on, and then just watch, don't start it, does fuel eventually start dripping out the carb throat?
Might be that the float valve needs to be replaced or at least cleaned.
Can you tell if there is a pencil filter inside the tank, attached to the fuel valve inside the tank?
Might put one on your list if you don't have one. Helps keep debris out of the carb.
Might be that the float valve needs to be replaced or at least cleaned.
Can you tell if there is a pencil filter inside the tank, attached to the fuel valve inside the tank?
Might put one on your list if you don't have one. Helps keep debris out of the carb.
1955cj5
Well-known member
UPS Driver
Member
I will check on this! It’s setup reminds me of the several antique tractors my father and I restored . It drips if left open for awhile
Joe K
Well-known member
This is a common flaw which develops in Model A carburetors.
The solution path is to buy the "carburetor level kit" which includes a bolt with a hole in it, a plastic tube, and instructions for attaching them to your carburetor.
The use of the kit is to determine where the level is currently in your carburetor, and allow you a repeatable method to determine changes to the level.
When properly adjusted, the bowl level (regulated by the inlet float valve of your carb) should be "just below" the level of the main "jets" of your carb. There may even be a published level for your Tillitson Model X but I can't remember what exactly this is. You can with a small ruler determine this by putting the rule down the throat of the lower half of your carb - and measuring the distance UP to the carburetor mating flange. Your level determined by the kit should be slightly BELOW this.
You change the level setting by bending slightly the float support - which contacts the needle valve.
You need to be sure your needle valve WILL shut off the gasoline flow. Sometimes the needle wears, or the seat wears, or the (usually) three sided valve stem gets "hung up" in its seat guide. Or you simply have "garbage" under the seat.
While "solid" valve stems were the original and work well when they shut off bubble tight, the best and usual found valve stems include a "buna-n or viton point" where the actual shut off occurs. Viton (white) would be preferred but there are still a lot of buna-n (black) tipped needles out there waiting to be dissolved by the alcohol in the gas.
A buna-n needle is not a death sentence. I had a John Deere 110 lawn tractor which had a buna-n needle - it would soften and gum-up over the winter and "freeze" itself to its seat. No gas flow. A sharp rap with a hammer handle would usually free it for the next year operating season. But a disassembly and inspection of your carb will assure you of proper function no matter if a solid needle or elastomeric tipped.
My experience with the Tillotson X carburetor is POSITIVE. Better than Zenith by most reports. Better mileage, better pickup, no braking stalls. But they do have a defect in the two halves of the carburetor CAN become distorted and affect carburetor action. Pot metal (aluminum?) works but is more fragile than cast iron.
Joe K
The solution path is to buy the "carburetor level kit" which includes a bolt with a hole in it, a plastic tube, and instructions for attaching them to your carburetor.
The use of the kit is to determine where the level is currently in your carburetor, and allow you a repeatable method to determine changes to the level.
When properly adjusted, the bowl level (regulated by the inlet float valve of your carb) should be "just below" the level of the main "jets" of your carb. There may even be a published level for your Tillitson Model X but I can't remember what exactly this is. You can with a small ruler determine this by putting the rule down the throat of the lower half of your carb - and measuring the distance UP to the carburetor mating flange. Your level determined by the kit should be slightly BELOW this.
You change the level setting by bending slightly the float support - which contacts the needle valve.
You need to be sure your needle valve WILL shut off the gasoline flow. Sometimes the needle wears, or the seat wears, or the (usually) three sided valve stem gets "hung up" in its seat guide. Or you simply have "garbage" under the seat.
While "solid" valve stems were the original and work well when they shut off bubble tight, the best and usual found valve stems include a "buna-n or viton point" where the actual shut off occurs. Viton (white) would be preferred but there are still a lot of buna-n (black) tipped needles out there waiting to be dissolved by the alcohol in the gas.
A buna-n needle is not a death sentence. I had a John Deere 110 lawn tractor which had a buna-n needle - it would soften and gum-up over the winter and "freeze" itself to its seat. No gas flow. A sharp rap with a hammer handle would usually free it for the next year operating season. But a disassembly and inspection of your carb will assure you of proper function no matter if a solid needle or elastomeric tipped.
My experience with the Tillotson X carburetor is POSITIVE. Better than Zenith by most reports. Better mileage, better pickup, no braking stalls. But they do have a defect in the two halves of the carburetor CAN become distorted and affect carburetor action. Pot metal (aluminum?) works but is more fragile than cast iron.
Joe K
UPS Driver
Member
I have an Economy Power King tractor with the same rap it with the screwdriver handle malady lol it’s worth noting it did the same with the car
UPS Driver
Member
Thank you to all for the help with my new project
rotorwrench
Well-known member
I generally attach an inlet pipe and blow through it while gently pushing up the float to insure it shuts off at the proper level. The level is close to the level of the main feed in the venturi. The Tilloson is an easy carb to work with and is fine for driver cars.
Some folks like the Marvel Schebler carbs but I don't see a lot of difference. They are both good aftermarket carbs. The zinc die cast fragility is the only thing a person has to be careful about. The castings warp easily so they shouldn't be tightened up too tight on the fasteners
Some folks like the Marvel Schebler carbs but I don't see a lot of difference. They are both good aftermarket carbs. The zinc die cast fragility is the only thing a person has to be careful about. The castings warp easily so they shouldn't be tightened up too tight on the fasteners
johnbuckley
Well-known member
Going off topic perhaps.... I have never had much joy using this fuel gauge with Tillotsons as I have never found specs for the fuel level in Tillys other than various books saying invert the upper body and then adjust the float to 1 inch from the flat surface of the body ... not very scientific as obviously float weight makes a difference to this rough and ready advice. Can anyone give the correct measurement for the fuel level on a Tilly? and tips on how to achieve it ?
UPS Driver
Member
Going off topic perhaps.... I have never had much joy using this fuel gauge with Tillotsons as I have never found specs for the fuel level in Tillys other than various books saying invert the upper body and then adjust the float to 1 inch from the flat surface of the body ... not very scientific as obviously float weight makes a difference to this rough and ready advice. Can anyone give the correct measurement for the fuel level on a Tilly? and tips on how to achieve it ?
These are the questions that keep me watching these threads!! Thank you all for the free sharing of your knowledge. As my father and grandfather both told me they wished they could leave me with their knowledge! Dad was an excellent car guy grandpa a building contractor and unfortunately I find myself taking a lot more time to figure out things they made look easy. The help provided on this Forrum helps guys like me immensely
UPS Driver
Member
Little cleaning with carburetor cleaner and it’s acting a lot better thank you for all the help