Engine temp rises when I get to cruise speed

B-O-B said:
Have you checked out the RMI-25 site. it may help.
Click to expand...
B-O-B,
It seems like it's more helpful for a rusty system. My motor only has a few thousands miles on it with new pumps, hoses, heater core and radiator. With all the different coolants and mixtures I've tried, I drained the system at least 10 times and never saw any rust. I did however order a bottle and I'm willing to give it a try. The 15 bucks won't kill me.
At this point, I don't think it could harm anything.
I'd like to hear from anyone an the barn that's using this product. I'll post results either way.
Thanks Joe
 
Quote: "I agree KiWinUS and I'm running out of things to try out. I'm going to try the larger overflow tank for $hits and giggles just to rule it out. After that, I'm at a lose"




Actually the next step in diagnosing the problem is to reinstall the cheap Ebay aluminum radiator. If it cools better, then....you know.



Terry
 
I'll give it to you for persistence. Most would have given up.


Custom engine, custom cooling. Everything must work in concert. Nothing is an island.


Not sure what the motor cost but you might be able to find a rad shop that will build you a rad with all the original mounting components and look with an large aluminum core.


Beyond my paygrade.
 
Just my 2 cents .We changed a customers 38 std to a mercury motor he came back after driving a bit complaining of overheating , on the old motor he had a 11" pusher fan outside and a alternator to power it .I suggested he best get rid of the alternator and fit the Ford stock fan and Generator back on .I then added the largest 12 volt pusher fan on the front i that i could find , we drove that with a 6 volt /12 V conversion regulator ,We added a shroud around the stock fan (not like the one depicted here ) needs to be designed correctly ,Now the customer rarely turns on the electric fan , I think with a electric fan you get air block at high speed ,a stock fan running of the motor speeds up as the motor does and moves more air ,at high speed it will pull more air through as it speeds up than just having a electric one that just has air bouncing of the front of the grill , ,a efficient fan system will enhance a lower performing radiator ,I have experimented with all this on several cars .A electric fan stays at one speed were a mechanical fan speeds up as the engine speeds up .do it as Henry did fan and shroud ,Sorry not knocking any one this just worked for me , ,As said a four row or aluminum core can work to
 
Last edited:
tubman said:
What happened to the aluminum radiator that cooled the car adequately?
Click to expand...

I still have it. The problem is it looks like crap. It's one of those ebay china specials. It doesn't bolt right in either. I had to make a lot of brackets to make it fit properly. It did work, but it was only installed while the current radiator was being built.
 
cadillac512 said:
Quote: "I agree KiWinUS and I'm running out of things to try out. I'm going to try the larger overflow tank for $hits and giggles just to rule it out. After that, I'm at a lose"




Actually the next step in diagnosing the problem is to reinstall the cheap Ebay aluminum radiator. If it cools better, then....you know.



Terry
Click to expand...

This seems to be the consensus!
 
FlatheadTed said:
Just my 2 cents .We changed a customers 38 std to a mercury motor he came back after driving a bit complaining of overheating on the old motor he had a 11" pusher fan outside and a alternator to power it .I suggested he best get rid of the alternator and fit the Ford stock fan and Generator back on .I then added the largest 12 volt pusher fan on the front i that i could find , we drove that with a 6 volt /12 V conversion regulator ,We added a shroud around the stock fan (not like the one depicted here ) needs to be designed correctly ,Now the customer rarely turns on the electric fan , I think with a electric fan you get air block at high speed ,a stock fan running of the motor speeds up as the motor does and moves more air ,at high speed it will pull more air through as it speeds up than just having a electric one that just has air bouncing of the front of the grill , ,a efficient fan system will enhance a lower performing radiator ,I have experimented with all this on several cars .A electric fan stays at one speed were a mechanical fan speeds up as the engine speeds up .do it as Henry did fan and shroud ,Sorry not knocking any one this just worked for me , ,As said a four row or aluminum core can work to
Click to expand...

Problem here is I can't run a stock fam. There's just no room with the blower snout and idler pulley.
 
Tinker said:
I'll give it to you for persistence. Most would have given up.


Custom engine, custom cooling. Everything must work in concert. Nothing is an island.


Not sure what the motor cost but you might be able to find a rad shop that will build you a rad with all the original mounting components and look with an large aluminum core.


Beyond my paygrade.
Click to expand...

All true, and I have a bunch in the motor believe me.
 
jrvariel48 said:
Could my current radiator get fitted with an aluminum core?

Does the entire radiator need to be aluminum?
Click to expand...


I don't believe so, since the brass tanks need to seal to the core headers and solder's not going to work. Aluminum cores are normally welded to aluminum tanks or crimped with gaskets to plastic tanks.
However, you may be able to get a better, higher capacity copper core installed to your tanks. Nothing better than a quality, properly sized copper core with correct tube count, spacing, and fin count. $$ though (again :mad:).


Terry
 
cadillac512 said:
I don't believe so, since the brass tanks need to seal to the core headers and solder's not going to work. Aluminum cores are normally welded to aluminum tanks or crimped with gaskets to plastic tanks.
However, you may be able to get a better, higher capacity copper core installed to your tanks. Nothing better than a quality, properly sized copper core with correct tube count, spacing, and fin count. $$ though (again :mad:).


Terry
Click to expand...

OK thanks for that information. If that's what I need to do...
 
I too believe that 205 degrees is too hot - given the short amount of driving you did. Also, you really weren't under any heavy load (that you said) and it wasn't 100 degrees out.

If it was mine, I'd give Brassworks another try and see if Lee can meet you 1/2 way - to put in a bigger core and lower the temp another 10 degrees or so. Even though you have a pressurized radiator, the higher the heat of the engine, the more chances for detonation (especially with a blower) - and detonation is bad JuJu for an engine.

While this is a big an expensive pain in the butt - it is the right direction to head. I'd also much rather run a quality copper core radiator than an aluminum one -- for aesthetics and longevity.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top