Got to test that 1929 Tudor

UPS Driver

UPS Driver

Member
So a few questions

I’m 6’3” and it’s a tight fit Snyder lists a discontinued kit to make the seat adjustable. I can’t locate one in stock but it would help. Anyone have a suggestion? (Moving the seat back is all I need)

Next there’s a knocking noise that seems to be at the bottom of the engine. The seller thinks it needs shims worked on (doesn’t scare me but how do you know for sure?) and that it’s not been already done

The worst spot for rust and there’s not a lot is at the bottom of the drivers side door pillar is there a patch panel available? Right below the hinge at the bottom where it and the rocker meets

Otherwise I was impressed with how solid the car is for 93 it’s not bad I crawled under and inside it . It runs drives and stops just not certain about that knocking it has excellent Firestone tires and decent brakes as well as clutch feels good
 
I would make an offer believing that the engine is bad. Like 2k lower, if you want the car. Otherwise Ild move on and look for another car.
An engine can be expensive without knowing the cause..... can be cheap to just replace it too, with a used engine. the choice really is yours.
 
ronn said:
I would make an offer believing that the engine is bad. Like 2k lower, if you want the car. Otherwise Ild move on and look for another car.
An engine can be expensive without knowing the cause..... can be cheap to just replace it too, with a used engine. the choice really is yours.
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Unfortunately the seller is holding at 7200 so I might pass but it’s in decent shape all things considered (looked at much worse) any more nothing seems to be bondo free but this one does is say probably never painted
 
I would never consider it unless there was some way to check the shims. If the shims are used up it's going to be big dollars. Could be 5 - 6 thousand, then you might have a $7200 car.
 
IMG_0716.jpgMy '28 came with a seat adj kit installed, I'm 6' 1" and it sure helps. Here' a pic of the adj clamp that attaches to the seat and slides over the triangular rail
 
Then again this is a good opportunity for 'hop up' of the engine or a good father child/grandchild experience.

Mike
 
ronn said:
I agree with aer. just walk. you will be upside down very fast!
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Starting to lean that direction myself not exactly like there’s a bunch of used engines available reasonably anymore. However there’s always the unknown buying a car that’s pushing a century old. I’m having a hard time finding anything that’s somewhat local even in this price point and see a LOT of them In MUCH worse shape for the same money I.e. locked up rusted out stuff that years ago would have been scrapped! Im debating
 
Have you joined a model A club? If not, I suggest that you do. Club members always know someone who has an A for sale. Also, you would be surprised how many "spare" engines club members have. Sometimes, they will let one go.
 
cheap engines come up on CL- Ive bought some good engines for 250.

rodders want them out of their garage and often they run fine. cheap way to get a car together wo dropping 6-8k for a new engine rebuild. but, you have to get 2k off the price for your time and effort.

so many As out there, you would be best waiting.....
 
You really need to join a local chapter of MAFCA. Not only will this make you aware of other Model As for sale but you could probably get a member to go look at this car with you. They would have a better idea of what is a minor or major problem with this car. For what it's worth I'm a retired UPS package car mechanic.
 
The seats in a Tudor are mounted at the front on a "post" that leans forward usually but can be simply turned around to face the other way. That will give about 1 1/2" more leg room. Henry designed them that way. I suggest you look under the seat to see if the post leans forward or back. In my 1928 Tudor, I replaced the seat with better ones and put those sliders on the shelf. If you buy the car and want them, I could send them to you. Lucky for you, parcels posted here arrive at their destination in the US. The same does not happen the other way around.
All that said, another option for you might be to tell the seller you are happy to buy it at his price if he adjusts the shims and you (or a third party who knows Model As) are happy with the result. IMO, that will tell you whether he is full of BS or telling the truth.
 
I actually like the Tudor sedan because of the lack of a great deal of woodwork, I’m not stuck on a 29 . There’s not a lot of raw material left in my neck of the woods with all the scrap drives coupled with nearly a century of time attrition eventually weeded the majority out. This truly is one of the better shape more original ones I’ve looked at. Typically rusted beyond the reasonable repair cost or so nice that they’re wanting new car prices
 
Hello, if the seller is sure the knock is loose connecting rod , show up with pan gasket and wrenches,drop pan and have a look, find out for sure and see if there is still shims left.And 4 and 1/2 quarts of oil, at least seller gets oil change out of the deal.
 
A 29 Tudor is the most undesirable Model A out there.

while that may seem harsh, it is a fact. I have sold a couple and takes a good long time to
sell them. Not saying they arent a good choice...... but 10k should buy you a prestine one.
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When you buy a boat the prospective buyer pays for a haulout and survey. If something is found wrong with the boat the buyer does not fix it but it goes in the report. The seller either fixes what is wrong or the price is negotiated.

In this case the buyer can pay for the pan to be removed and the bearings inspected but the engine will be put back together exactly as found. Whoever does the inspection will issue a report that should include anything else they found to be wrong with the car. The seller and buyer can then negotiate the price. Of course, this is all contingent on the seller being agreeable to the plan.
 
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