Looking at my first Model A

UPS Driver

UPS Driver

Member
Hello everyone from Northern KENTUCKY! I stumbled on the forum the other day and have to say it’s very informative for a newby. I’m looking at a 1929 sedan that has an original numbers matching engine (matches the title) it runs, drives, and stops also tagged. It’s about an hour from where I live so not too far. My mechanic experience is mainly antique farm tractors so it doesn’t really scare me badly. There appears to be some rust starting on the lower doors and cowl area but actually for a car so old it seems solid (probably use as is and leave body alone). Just wanted to ask if there were any Achilles heels to be aware of ie “see this walk away “ the fella is asking 7200.00 it includes a top wood kit and a new vinyl top kit . Thank you
 
one thing you want to watch out for is the wood in the body. tudors dont have all that much, but the 4 drs do. Open and close the doors and make sure they arent sagging. Woodwork could be your achilles heal, but all doable.

the price and distance seems quite fair. the 4 drs tend to be worth a little more then the tudors. In 29 they made more tudors then any other body style.

Hope you get it and enjoy it. Your tractor experience will come in very handy!
btw welcome!
 
Thank you it is a Tudor sedan. It’s been switched to a 6 volt alternator but although I’ve always been in the “if it’s not broke don’t fix” club probably make it 12 (do it on old tractors often) I like the reliability of a one wire delco setup. Any reason it shouldn’t be done? I’m not worried about original it’s already not a museum piece just thinking it’s usually easier with wiring and more reliable in other applications
 
Hey fella congratulations on your new purchase! My brother converted his A to 12 volt for convenience purposes and reliability. He upgraded his lights and the bendix on the starter to prevent damage. He loves it and I will do the same to my ‘’30 Tudor. Lots of people will disagree but I just feel it would be much more convenient for me as well for a long list of reasons I won’t bore you with. Good luck with your A hope you enjoy it!
 
One wire alternators always require a little more rpm to excite the unit into coming on line. If a person runs a carefully placed alternator light and uses the other two wires, it will excite as soon as it starts turning.

The old 3-brush 6-volt generator does fine as long as it is maintained but it is low on output. It works OK when the lights are the largest continuous electrical load. 12-volts opens up other possibilities but any installed electrical accessories will have the associated need for further electrical system wiring and circuit protection. The coil will either need a ballast or a change to a 3-Ohm coil for 12-volt operation. The horn will also need to be changed for 12-volt operation.
 
regarding the horn, have bought several 12 volt horns from the 1970s for not much and easier to go that route. the original horn has a bit more value and can be shelved or sold.
the repro horns look pretty good.
 
Thank you all for your replies it seems that the car might not have been apart and maybe even original paint has anyone here actually done the top wood kit on a tudor themselves? Is it horrible or is it an afternoon kind of thing? Really interested in hearing from someone who has done it
 
Question I’m bringing the car to Kentucky from another state I know about the VIN being on the block and will verify it matches title for myself before handing over cash but it has to have the VIN inspection from my sheriffs office. So has that ever been a problem for anyone here?
 
Ok, here is the deal. That VIN number on the block is just a block number not a real vin. If you want to verify that it is matching numbers you have to lift the body off of the frame-royal PIA. Also, if those are the original brake drums, redo the entire brake system with cast iron drums. The original steel are ok but they will have brake fade.

Mike
 
1930artdeco said:
Ok, here is the deal. That VIN number on the block is just a block number not a real vin. If you want to verify that it is matching numbers you have to lift the body off of the frame-royal PIA. Also, if those are the original brake drums, redo the entire brake system with cast iron drums. The original steel are ok but they will have brake fade.

Mike[/QUOTE
Unfortunately I have to have inspection done to transfer Title to my name so the block is the VIN as far as I’m concerned (definitely not interested in having a local official decide the vin isn’t valid because it’s not what their book says) just spoke to a deputy locally that has a T and A he’s familiar and said he’s willing to help so no worries there. Thank you as well for the brake drum tip!! I’m sure I’ll have to go through everything and change all fluids and adjust brakes pack wheel bearings etc . I’m VERY grateful for the help you all !
Click to expand...
 
Many engines were swapped out on model As over the years. so there are other ways to do vin checks........

doest make the car junk or parts on either count.
 
ronn said:
Many engines were swapped out on model As over the years. so there are other ways to do vin checks........

doest make the car junk or parts on either count.
Click to expand...

I definitely don’t think it makes them junk it’s just after a ridiculous experience with a 67 Harley I purchased out of state years ago that its a circus act that I’d prefer not to repeat. A deputy that did vehicle inspections decided that a VIN had to be where he said (engine numbers were the vin here too) and tried to make me get a Kentucky issued VIn number after many arguments and showing proof the the sheriff himself it was solved just not something that I care to deal with again
 
You need to resolve the VIN questions before buying the car. Otherwise it is just parts. I live in Ohio, and they can be picky. I have been down the VIN road before...
 
What VIN question? If the engine number matches the title, that's all you need. If it didn't, you'd have a problem. If the inspector doesn't know that the engine no. is the number on the title, then maybe there is a question, but if you have a LE friend who understands this, there shouldn't be an issue.
 
I live in Kentucky and purchased my 30 Cabriolet from Oklahoma a few months ago and getting it inspected was no problem at all using the engine number.
 
there is a great YouTube video explaining about the VIN and motor numbering system. MODEL A FORD ENGINE NUMBERS; WHAT DO THEY TELL US? It is a great video but i think i did something wrong trying to upload it. check it out. Preacher is correct
 
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