Engine temp rises when I get to cruise speed

Tinker said:
Terry this guy is running a blower and maybe it's been addressed.... your bore?

Being it cools down after highway runs at low or idle? Might be a flow issue...

I'd ditch the thermostats. Turbulence for no reason. Less you take this beast out in winter months.


Bummer they don't want to work with you to figure this out. Just makes a better rad.


Best of luck!!!
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Bore diameter is 3.328" so no huge bore here. I'd like to keep the stats in if I could because I do drive all winter.
If enough people think I should remove them for the summer months, I could certainly do that.
Anyone want to add their experience with no stats???

I'm just pissed that they won't good on it after they "assumed I couldn't fit a larger core"
I think it's a BS excuse.
Let's see what I can figure out
I don't need my motor at 180*, but I don't like 210* either.
Thanks Tinker!
 
cadillac512 said:
Joe-
The Speedway pumps are working perfectly on my 260" Merc. I run a recored stock radiator in a '41 Merc and it runs down the road 60 mph at 190 degrees on a 100 degree day (104 here today). 50/50 green ethylene glycol coolant , stock 4 blade crank mounted fan. It'll get to 200 sitting at idle in a drive - through line but never loses any coolant, and I run a non pressurized cap with no recovery bottle.



Terry
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Wow! That's impressive! I wish I had numbers like that.
One day.
 
jrvariel48 said:
Bore diameter is 3.328" so no huge bore here. I'd like to keep the stats in if I could because I do drive all winter.
If enough people think I should remove them for the summer months, I could certainly do that.
Anyone want to add their experience with no stats???

I'm just pissed that they won't good on it after they "assumed I couldn't fit a larger core"
I think it's a BS excuse.
Let's see what I can figure out
I don't need my motor at 180*, but I don't like 210* either.
Thanks Tinker!
Click to expand...
I think 180 is ideal
 
jrvariel48 said:
I tried the liquid tester to check that and it came up clean
Good call though! Thanks Joe
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I did this on my friend Packard, negative test at idle, reving in .
Removed the head, the gasket showed leaking down the center , new gasket cured it

Had a 46 big truck, the flea market truck, always 2 ton load, put in a 49 merc engine, split the exhaust, put a new 69 mustang 302 muffler on it for the second muffler , pulling a hill that bank would overheat, had to throttle by temperature, put a second stock muffler and the problem went away.
amazing that a muffler for a 302 was too restrictive for 1/2 of a flathead.
 
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Been away testing the race car for Speedweek so I'm just catching up on what's happening. Its going to be interesting to see if the shroud modification accomplishes anything. Its best to try one thing at a time however the shroud modification's may be the last experiment.
Ronnieroadster
 
Kurt in NJ said:
I did this on my friend Packard, negative test at idle, reving in .
Removed the head, the gasket showed leaking down the center , new gasket cured it

Had a 46 big truck, the flea market truck, always 2 ton load, put in a 49 merc engine, split the exhaust, put a new 69 mustang 302 muffler on it for the second muffler , pulling a hill that bank would overheat, had to throttle by temperature, put a second stock muffler and the problem went away.
amazing that a muffler for a 302 was too restrictive for 1/2 of a flathead.
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I would think that would show up even at idle, apparently not. This is something I'll keep on the back burner for sure.
The exhaust issue is also vey intriguing. I'm using 12" long Smitty's mufflers. The system has very few minor bends except the 90* bends where the exit the side of the car.
Thank you,
Joe
 
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Ronnieroadster said:
Been away testing the race car for Speedweek so I'm just catching up on what's happening. Its going to be interesting to see if the shroud modification accomplishes anything. Its best to try one thing at a time however the shroud modification's may be the last experiment.
Ronnieroadster
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Ronnieroadster, I hope your testing went the way you wanted it to.
I'm very skeptical about the shroud mod doing anything so it's actually the first thing I did. I'm also not 100% sure this particular fan without the shroud will do much either. I believe the fan and shroud are designed together so I don't know if the fan by itself will be enough. I'm going to try testing it today if the weather holds up.
If that fails, I'll change my initial timing to 12* and see how that goes.
After that I'll change jets to richen things up a bit
Before I remove the shroud, I owe a phone call to Sam from CCI, the makers of the fan/shroud, to let him know what happened. He was pretty confident that this would do the trick. I'll ask him if that fan could be run effectively without the shroud.
Thanks Joe
 
This test is being done without the grille/lower grille pan.

First test complete-nothing changed. 73* outside temp.
I cut the shroud and moved it higher as recommended by the manufacturer.
I drove the backroads at 10-20, 20-30 and 30-40 mph and the temp stayed at about 190*.
As soon as I got on the highway past 55mph it went up to 205*
after about 2 minutes off of the highway, the temp dropped back to 190*

Test 2 complete-nothing changed 79* outside temp
Fan and shroud stayed the same.
I bumped up my initial timing to 12*
Temp went up to 190* again cruising at low speeds and shot up to 205* again at higher speeds.

Right now it seems to point to the radiator.
As I was taking the car apart on Friday I have to tell you I was not happy!
Lee from Brassworks is really a pompous guy and is not taking any blame for this and that pisses me off.
I did speak to Chuck at CAR here in Jersey that ronnieroadster recommended and he'll build me a 4" core.
I don't have a problem fitting the 4" core I just can't get a puller in there. This is where Lee "ASSUMED" I needed a 2 5/8" core. That's just dumb, plain and simple.
I told him I WILL NOT run two fans and this will be his excuse for not accepting responsibility.
I know a puller fan is better, but it's hard to believe a pusher can't get the job done.
Thanks, Joe
 
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Get a real radiator in there and your pusher fan will likely be just fine. Pompous guys really annoy me....fragile egos.
 
jrvariel48 said:
I know a puller fan is better, but it's hard to believe a pusher can't get the job done.
Thanks, Joe
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A puller fan with a shroud creates a vacuum within the entire shroud.
A pusher fan creates a turbulence beyond the perimeter of the blades that prevents free air flow at those points beyond the perimeter of the blades.
 
ford38v8 said:
A puller fan with a shroud creates a vacuum within the entire shroud.
A pusher fan creates a turbulence beyond the perimeter of the blades that prevents free air flow at those points beyond the perimeter of the blades.
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I guess the only real way to tell is to put this puller fan on another radiator
 
Joe I use a relatively small diameter puller electric fan that I located between the blower pulleys and idler assembly on both of the family Deuces. Since the fan is only needed around town once you have a radiator that's working better the size of the fan I feel will not need to be very large. Todays electric fans are really thin thanks to the pan cake type motors actually thinner than the much older fans I have from the last century.
To test how much of the radiator core the fans I use actually pull air threw on my Deuces if I put a sheet of paper at any location on the outside of the grill the paper will stay in place I'm surprised on how well just a small puller works.
Ronnieroadster
 
Ronnieroadster said:
Joe I use a relatively small diameter puller electric fan that I located between the blower pulleys and idler assembly on both of the family Deuces. Since the fan is only needed around town once you have a radiator that's working better the size of the fan I feel will not need to be very large. Todays electric fans are really thin thanks to the pan cake type motors actually thinner than the much older fans I have from the last century.
To test how much of the radiator core the fans I use actually pull air threw on my Deuces if I put a sheet of paper at any location on the outside of the grill the paper will stay in place I'm surprised on how well just a small puller works.
Ronnieroadster
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That’s comforting to to know. Do you remember the details of you radiator build from CAR? They gave me a quote on a 4” 7 row
Thanks Joe
 
Joe here's the dimension first the core is 3-1/2 inches thick remember this is a 32 so the original radiator support and mounting is no more than 3 -1/2 inches wide. The core is a staggered tube design with full fins from side to side the tube count side to side is 27.
I'm not able to count the the number of tubes from front to back due to the staggered arrangement but I will say there's a lot of them maybe less than seven but is hard to tell.
Since the tape was out measured the fan as well its 12 inches in diameter and being old its 4 -1/2 inch's out from the core.
 
Ronnieroadster said:
Joe here's the dimension first the core is 3-1/2 inches thick remember this is a 32 so the original radiator support and mounting is no more than 3 -1/2 inches wide. The core is a staggered tube design with full fins from side to side the tube count side to side is 27.
I'm not able to count the the number of tubes from front to back due to the staggered arrangement but I will say there's a lot of them maybe less than seven but is hard to tell.
Since the tape was out measured the fan as well its 12 inches in diameter and being old its 4 -1/2 inch's out from the core.
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Great thanks Ronnie!
 
FWIW, everything else being equal, and if my memory serves me correctly, you can simply extrapolate coolant temps at different ambient temps based on the difference between the ambient temp you wish to theorize about. For example, if you have a coolant temp of 205F at 80F ambient, and want to know what the coolant temp would be at 100F (under the exact same operating conditions), you would simply add the difference between the two ambient temps to the coolant temp. So, under the same conditions, at 100F ambient, the coolant temp would be 225F. At least that is how we used to calculate coolant temps at higher than available ambient temps.
 
Ziggster said:
FWIW, everything else being equal, and if my memory serves me correctly, you can simply extrapolate coolant temps at different ambient temps based on the difference between the ambient temp you wish to theorize about. For example, if you have a coolant temp of 205F at 80F ambient, and want to know what the coolant temp would be at 100F (under the exact same operating conditions), you would simply add the difference between the two ambient temps to the coolant temp. So, under the same conditions, at 100F ambient, the coolant temp would be 225F. At least that is how we used to calculate coolant temps at higher than available ambient temps.
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That sounds right to me Ziggster
Thanks Joe
 
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