Getting distributor rebuilt

Couple things: We have no idea as to what year engine and therefore what type of distributor? If it is an original engine (given your picture), then it has a slotted tang that will only allow the distributor to be reinstalled in the correct orientation. The slot is only 1/16 off center, so make sure it is not 180 degrees "off" - so don't force it back in if the bolts don't align. Also, make sure you purchase a new gasket before you put it back on. Lastly, make sure you select a vendor that the Fordbarn approves of - as we have at least 2 different guys that know what they're doing.

Best of luck,
B&S
 
Assuming the avatar picture is your car, IF you will notice when you remove it from the car, look on he back of the distributor and you will see a keyway. Notice that it is offset.....It is NOT centered SO when you reinstall it you need to be SURE that keyway fits back into the end of the camshaft gear. IF you do search here on the barn there are several post about the "best" way to do so.... I made me some alignment pins out of 5/16-18 bolts. Thread the pins in where the bolts go, slide the distributor onto the pins....before you attach the caps, you can put your thumb (or thumbs) through the cap opening while pushing the distributor back against the motor, turn the rotor with your thumb(s), once the keyway lines up with the cam gear you will feel and hear it click back!!! Then you can hold it in one place with one hand and unscrew one alignment pin at a time and reinstall the bolt with the other hand. It only will fit one way. The other thing I do IS once I have it back in place...BEFORE I put the caps on I have some one rock the car back and forth while in gear, watch the rotor and make sure it turns back and forth with the car rocking....You are DOUBLE sure you are where it needs to be!!!!
 

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Thanks. Dosen't sound too difficult
Sorry I forgot to mention the car is a 1938 delux, 85 hp. I have a small leak in my radiator tank so I'm removing it for repairs. Should make acess to the distributor easier. Again thanks for the advice.
Terry
 
civilwarlife said:
Thanks. Dosen't sound too difficult
Sorry I forgot to mention the car is a 1938 delux, 85 hp. I have a small leak in my radiator tank so I'm removing it for repairs. Should make acess to the distributor easier. Again thanks for the advice.
Terry
Click to expand...
MUCH...especially IF the Radiator is out when you re-install the Distributor. NOT sure who are where you are having your distributor repaired by??? Michael at Third Gen Auto or CharlieNY.....both here on the Barn IF you have decided.
 
After reading here, I made some alignment pins for my recent distributor job. Made the job so much easier and I didn't have to worry about messing up the gasket.

What a terrific idea!
 
I don't use 'alignment pins' - I just use short 5/16 NC to 5/16 NF studs for my distributors. I leave them in - in place of bolts and just use washers/nuts to hold the distributors down. Best way to go by far.
 
Bored&Stroked said:
I don't use 'alignment pins' - I just use short 5/16 NC to 5/16 NF studs for my distributors. I leave them in - in place of bolts and just use washers/nuts to hold the distributors down. Best way to go by far.
Click to expand...

Good idea. I've often thought of studding all components. Water pumps, oil pan, dizzy, intake, etc. Maybe on the next engine which I have some wild ideas for....

As for the rebuild, others above have mentioned that Charlie NY or Third Gen Auto will do an outstanding job of rebuilding your unit.
 
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Bored&Stroked said:
I don't use 'alignment pins' - I just use short 5/16 NC to 5/16 NF studs for my distributors. I leave them in - in place of bolts and just use washers/nuts to hold the distributors down. Best way to go by far.
Click to expand...
You don't really need to try and find 5/16 course and fine thread double end studs.....You can use a 5/16-18 by like 1" or 1-1/4" long alloy socket set screw, its super easy to install and tighten into the block and then Use a 5/16 NC nut on the other end....The set screw is then "basically" your "permanent pin".
 
cwl,
The rebuild on these distributors is pretty straight forward....but....often over looked is the wear between the rotor shaft and the big bronze bushing in the rear hub.
Usually there is more wear on the bearing diameter of the rotor shaft than on the bearing itself. It is my feeling that machining that diameter back to being straight and round and fitting selectively an undersize bushing is critical to the rebuild. Replacing the old bushing with an off the shelf standard size bushing does address the taper and out of round wear on rotor shaft big diameter. I like to fit the shaft and bushing with
a .001 running fit.

JMHO,
Charlie ny
 
Charlie ny said:
cwl,
The rebuild on these distributors is pretty straight forward....but....often over looked is the wear between the rotor shaft and the big bronze bushing in the rear hub.
Usually there is more wear on the bearing diameter of the rotor shaft than on the bearing itself. It is my feeling that machining that diameter back to being straight and round and fitting selectively an undersize bushing is critical to the rebuild. Replacing the old bushing with an off the shelf standard size bushing does address the taper and out of round wear on rotor shaft big diameter. I like to fit the shaft and bushing with
a .001 running fit.

JMHO,
Charlie ny
Click to expand...


And who knows...."Charlie ny" might even run your distributor on his dedicated test engine, as he is seen doing here, likely testing a carburetor that he just blueprinted. Coop


RbMre09.jpg
 
mustang1215 said:
How can I reach Charlie new york
Click to expand...
cas5845@yahoo.com (716) 440-8952 OR


Charlie Schwindler
5845 Cole Road
Orchard Park NY 14127


Put what you want him to fix in a box with a "signed" blank check with your contact information and just send it....He'll get it back to you.....That's what I've done for years!!! Charlie will let you know how much it is.....You won't be disappointed!!!!
 
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