6 volt to 12 volt voltage regulator

C

casper_wcx13

Junior Member
Does anyone know where i can get a voltage converter ? Ever since it was converted the gas and temperature gauges are incorrect. I have aftermarket gauges but i want to eliminate them and stick with the stock gauges.


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casper_wcx13 said:
..... I have aftermarket gauges but i want to eliminate them and stick with the stock gauges.
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What year vehicle is it?

The original 65+ yr old gauges may or may not be as accurate as you hope. Confirm their correct operation before placing too much trust in them.

In theory, if they were working correctly before... "The fuel and temp gauges will work on 6 or 12 V and are not polarity sensitive."

The original King-Seeley "6v" gauges work on current flow and heat, not voltage. Diagram attached below.

More info and quote above from this link...
https://www.ctci.org/battery-for-6v-to-12v-conversion/
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Attachments

  • 'King Seeley' fuel gauge diagram '55.jpg
    'King Seeley' fuel gauge diagram '55.jpg
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The heater blower motor, the seat motors and window motors will work on 12V, but they will run very fast. The seat motor running too fast should be no problem. The heater motor running on low speed will be acceptable. The window motors will require some expertise in use in order to prevent mechanical damage but most of my customers don’t change them. Can if you want, they may cost you up to $300 ea for 12V window motors. You might use a dropping resistor in the motor ground wire circuit to drop the voltage but I have not determined what the correct value would have to be. Maybe someone else knows. It will have to be a very high power resistor, maybe 1000 watts and it will give off some heat. I don’t have a 6V window motor to test or I would give you the numbers. I would recommend just using the window motors as they are and release the window switch before the window gets to its stop. This may take some practice but it is easy.

Walt Nuckles
4/10/01

Footnote -

If the 6 volt gauges do not work when the 12 volt conversion is made install a 10 ohm 10 watt wire wound resistor between the gauges and the power supply to gauges. If the gauges still do not work it may be necessary to replace the gauges and the sending units with 1956 12 volt units.
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All of that just inspires confidence in the recommended suggestions -

1 - A POWER SEAT that will crush your rib-cage on the steering wheel if you are not quick on the switch ...

2- A POWER WINDOW that may clip your cigarette if not quick on the switch ...

3- And the ever popular blower motor that will blow your fedora off ...

Was an IGNITION RESISTOR mentioned anywhere?
 
I used the Ford Instrument Voltage Regulator on my 54. These are available almost anywhere, including your local parts store. Used on 57 and up Ford products. 65 Mustang is one application.
 
i used the mentioned mustang resistor on my 55 wagon but changed the amp gauge to a voltage gauge starter stayed the same just spun faster everything worked great
 
KULTULZ said:
All of that just inspires confidence in the recommended suggestions -
1 - A POWER SEAT that will crush your rib-cage on the steering wheel if you are not quick on the switch ...
2- A POWER WINDOW that may clip your cigarette if not quick on the switch ...
3- And the ever popular blower motor that will blow your fedora off ...
Was an IGNITION RESISTOR mentioned anywhere?
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You might be reading more into the description than is actually there.

I've got a '55 Bird with the 6v power seat and window motors running on 12 volts. The speed they operate at seems very normal to me. Not having owned it when it was 6v I don't know how slow they were back then. If they were much slower than now they would seem too slow.

I can't speak directly to the 6v gauges and heater fan as the originals in this car were damaged or missing and replaced with 12v parts. Other '55 owners I know with original 6v gauges on 12v say they work fine. The add-on gauge voltage regulator can be considered a back up plan, as needed.

Yes, installing an ignition ballast resistor is mentioned in the article.
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If I had a 55-57 BIRD, and their value being as much as they are, I would most certainly want it and all accessories to work correctly, especially on a 6 to 12V conversion which is dangerous in itself if not performed correctly.

The procedure(s) outlined in that article are too vague and on a hit or miss method(s). If I had one come into the shop for this conversion, the customer would have to understand the procedure(s) and possible ramifications of a MICKEY MOUSE job.

If he/she/it/mutant didn't realize the shortfalls, he would have to take it elsewhere as I would be liable for any heart breaking ramifications.

I see the IGN resistor now but what about the points/condenser?

And this disclaimer really sums it all up -

Footnote -

If the 6 volt gauges do not work when the 12 volt conversion is made install a 10 ohm 10 watt wire wound resistor between the gauges and the power supply to gauges. If the gauges still do not work it may be necessary to replace the gauges and the sending units with 1956 12 volt units.

Wire wound resistors can be purchased at Radio Shack like the one pictured.
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So if one does not fry the gauges/circuitry, just go the the safe and logical method.

I'm sorry but much of the TECH found there (especially DISC BRAKES) is not very sound or practical.
 
If a person gets a good quality solid state voltage regulator for the fuel quantity, coolant temp and oil pressure indicators then the old King Seeley units will work just fine. There are poor quality ones out there so it pays to get ones specifically made for the purpose or follow a U-tube video and make your own. The little integrated circuit CVR units are truly constant voltage regulators and will give a set amount of voltage all the time unlike the old chopper type instrument voltage regulators that worked on an average voltage by controlling the current level with points and a bi-metallic switch. Many of the modern replacements for those have the modern IC/CVR substituted inside the case.

When Randy Rundle started making these, he called them the runtz voltage drop but they are just little voltage regulators made to drop the voltage for a modest current draw, They generate little or no heat when used separately. Resistors consume the current and drop the voltage but they get hot when dropping the current levels so special mounting conditions have to be observed.
https://www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com/electrical_parts.php
 
rotorwrench said:
When Randy Rundle started making these, he called them the runtz voltage drop but they are just little voltage regulators made to drop the voltage for a modest current draw, They generate little or no heat when used separately. Resistors consume the current and drop the voltage but they get hot when dropping the current levels so special mounting conditions have to be observed.

https://www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com/electrical_parts.php
Click to expand...

Now that is a good referring URL.

Look at Runtz Voltage Drops in the cataloging,
 
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