Engine Rebabbiting Service

U

ursus

Well-known member
I noticed on the MAFCA site that Bill Barlow of Bend, Oregon has retired from rebabbiting Model A/B engines. As he had several helpers in this activity, has anybody taken this over from him? Bill Barlow was a master of this craft.
 
I cannot help you with your question but have a related response.

You can re Babbett the engine and line bore it yourself. The tools are available on the internet. It helps to have some experience in re babbetting engines.

Note that Babbett is a proper name after Isaac Babbett who developed the metal alloy. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Babbitt_(alloy)
 
Having seen babbitt poured and line bored, it isn't something that an inexperienced person could successfully pull off without many hours of practice following the up front investment in a couple thousand $$ worth of equipment. I would prefer to leave that to somebody with the requisite experience, hence my inquiry.
 
ursus said:
Having seen babbitt poured and line bored, it isn't something that an inexperienced person could successfully pull off without many hours of practice following the up front investment in a couple thousand $$ worth of equipment. I would prefer to leave that to somebody with the requisite experience, hence my inquiry.
Click to expand...

This is a very wise man.
While I have not poured babbitt, I have removed my fair share in preparation of boring for inserts.
What I can tell you is that I can tell who knew what they were doing, both in the application and type of materials used.

This is an example of the craftsmanship being lost these days.
You cannot learn this from watching a video.

Best of luck in finding a competent shop, John
 
Bill was training his grandson last I saw him, a few years back. Have heard he is doing babbitting as a side business, but do not know for sure.
 
Erik Barrett in Auburn CA..

The digital thermometer has taken a lot of the art out of pouring babbit..but it is an interesting process requiring experience and skill.
 
johnneilson said:
This is a very wise man.
While I have not poured babbitt, I have removed my fair share in preparation of boring for inserts.
What I can tell you is that I can tell who knew what they were doing, both in the application and type of materials used.

This is an example of the craftsmanship being lost these days.
You cannot learn this from watching a video.

Best of luck in finding a competent shop, John
Click to expand...

John,
Well said. I’ve done a small number of them but have plenty of other full time A work. Fortunately we have a local guy that’s all he does. Palmer Lawson. He’s 84 but still at it and does a wonderful job on mains. We use AER ‘s inserted rods.
The new burtz blocks are a great option but I still don’t think it’s for the novice to do their own. It is nieve to think that anyone can do it. Those that say that have obviously never done it, and to think you can by watching a few videos and buying a fixture online. You have to be part machinest and understand the Babbitt process, temperature, and machining of all the mains including thrust. It is indeed an element of experience. My friend Arlyn in Sam Diego said he’s not pouring Babbitt anymore with the advent of the new blocks.
Larry Shepard
 
The new engines seem like a smart idea. The new engines are scat cranks, with inserts all the way, right?
 
Gene F said:
The new engines seem like a smart idea. The new engines are scat cranks, with inserts all the way, right?
Click to expand...

No.


SCAT crankshafts have 3 main bearings and 4 counterweights. The main journals are 1.625-inch diameter and the connecting rod journals are 1.500-inch diameter. The inserts used are special and only available from AER.


The new engine crankshaft has 5 main bearings and 8 counterweights. All 9 bearing journals on the new crankshaft are 2.000-inch diameter. The inserts used in the new engine are also used in small block Chevy, 6-cylinder, and 4-cylinder engines and are available at NAPA, O'Reilly's, Amazon, eBay, and any local auto parts store.
 
“It helps to have some experience in re babbetting engines.”

Well YEAH …. Not a DIY project…seriously
That is not for a novice in tools, facilities and experience
 
Remember also that it's not only the skill in preparing and pouring the babbit - knowledge of the A engine and fixturing is required to maintain correct distance from the cam bore to crank, crank offset to the cylinders etc. The investment in tooling and fixturing would be hard to justify for most owners.
 
I have cast 1000's of lead bullets, some from pure Babbitt 40 years ago. But there's no way I'd attempt to pour rod or main bearings. I've helped a veterinarian spay 100s of dogs and cats, but I'll never try it.

In the immortal words of Clint Eastwood...a man's gotta know his limitations...��
 
Gene F said:
Sounds even better yet Terry.
Click to expand...

IMO, they are the Holy Grail. Their cost is about the same as having an original engine rebored, bearings poured and machined but with one of these, you have a new and much better designed engine that will probably outlast us.
I believe they are good for 200 hp easily and 5,000 rpm - something beyond the imagination of engineers back in the 1920s.
 
Synchro909 said:
IMO, they are the Holy Grail. Their cost is about the same as having an original engine rebored, bearings poured and machined but with one of these, you have a new and much better designed engine that will probably outlast us.
I believe they are good for 200 hp easily and 5,000 rpm - something beyond the imagination of engineers back in the 1920s.
Click to expand...

I stood so long at Terry's table in Kerrville I thought they would charge me Rent ! The manufacture and tolerances are amazing. I'll say it again. When and if I need a new motor for my Fordor it will be a Burtz. Period.
 
David R - Did you check with Schwalms in Strasberg, pa.? They’ve been at it for many years. Though the last I conversed with them, they often are backlogged 6 months out. I have one of their rebuilds, very nice job.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top