Effect of too large point gap

I am. Very handy. Don't have to turn the engine over and hunt for the high side of the cam. Just remove the rotor, pull back the point arm, insert the tool over the cam, measure and adjust as necessary.
 
I just read that tool's description and instructions. If I follow correctly, the only advantage is it eliminates the need to rotate the engine to get the point arm block up on the cam. You still need to set the gap with an included feeler gauge. Is that correct?

I have one of those special crank nut wrenches, so turning over the engine is easy to do while watching the points. So unless I'm not understanding correctly, for me, I see no advantage to the point tool.
 
ndnchf said:
I just read that tool's description and instructions. If I follow correctly, the only advantage is it eliminates the need to rotate the engine to get the point arm block up on the cam. You still need to set the gap with an included feeler gauge. Is that correct?
Click to expand...

Yes, that is correct. The "blade" on the tool is essentially a feeler gauge, and it is stored inside the tool.
 
true, but still high enough to zap you if you accidentally touch a plug or a distributer wire when messing about under the hood with it running. only made that mistake once, I am happy to say.
 
Tom Endy said:
I have always set the points at .020, then set the timing. A new set of points will start closing up as the rubbing block wears. As they close up the timing changes. Before 1000 miles the car will not run well and you will notice you have to keep moving the spark advance handle up.
Tom Endy
Click to expand...

I find this interesting. When the rubbing block wears and the gap closes up, the timing retards. And you indicate you have to retard it more (move lever up?)?

I would think you would have to advance it to compensate (pull the lever down). :confused:
 
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