ammeter

[larry harding]

helping a friend on a 28 tudor. he ordered a new 30 amp ammeter(it has an alternator now), how is it supposed to be held in place in the dash? i tried bending the tab but couldn't get them tight enough to hold. i think these repop meters are chinese crap like most everything else today, and will fall apart in your hand if your not careful. when i did my 31 pickup a few years ago i finally went with some j b weld to hold it firm. any better ideas?

 

[Dale G.]

Hi Larry,


Start looking for some originals for me to restore. Dale.

 

[ndnchf]

2 weeks ago I installed a quality Nurex ammeter. I bent the tabs, it was still a little loose. So I put some RTV silcone around it on the back. It worked great.

 

[Synchro909]

IMO, silicone, not JB weld, assuming JB weld is an epoxy putty.

 

[Y-Blockhead]

IMO, silicone, not JB weld, assuming JB weld is an epoxy putty.

You assume correctly. A couple of dabs of the Right Stuff keep mine from rattling around. 3 more...

 

[Badpuppy]

Use the original 20A. Ammeter has nothing to do with generator capacity. Load on battery should not exceed 20A.

 

[Rob Doe]

Just get it level. Or else don't post any pics of it. LOL Drives me bonkers.

 

[rotorwrench]

It's hard to compete with an original 20-amp unit. They had a much better magnet and the terminals were real bakelite.

The alternator won't normally put out more than what it takes to keep the battery charged and run normal lighting and ignition requirements.

 

[Brentwood Bob]

Dale G. Sent you a pm.

 

[Bill G]

I have the NuRex high output alternator and the standard 20A ammeter. I have never seen it go beyond 10 amps, even right after a start. I don't think you'll need 30 amps. Having said that, these repops are junk as far as fitting. They all fit loose. I set mine in the instrument panel and sealed all the way around with RTV silicone. Keep it still for 24 hours and away you go.