1940 dual exhaust

I don't think Meineke is really the best place to ask about this. A "non-chain" shop would be better (if you can find one).
 
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if youve got to change a manifolds why not change both for a set of FENTONS work well sound great and dont look out of place and where a common place item in the 40s just a thought
 
When I re-read all the posts I realized that Zeke had suggested Waldrens Exhaust. So, I sent them an email inquiring about the possibility of purchasing a left side exhaust pipe. Having that I think would solve my problem. Sid
 
Never challenge someone that turns down a job. They don’t want to do it. This job has been done on early Fords thousands of times. Find another shop.
 
Here is a good set-up.This is not my car, just think this is a good example.
1940-ford-coupe.jpg
 
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Sorry,I should have informed everyone that is not my car.I wish it was though.I can not remember where photo come from but I think it was a memeber on here.
 
Question. Should the Tailpipe be up higher to notch in cross member ?
And should the downward bend be behind the cross member/ axle farther back in car ?
Stretch
 
40ford said:
Sorry,I should have informed everyone that is not my car.I wish it was though.I can not remember where photo come from but I think it was a memeber on here.
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My mistake, you did mention that it was not your car.
It does however look like someone used EMT conduit. I have found 1-3/4" exhaust pipe is the same O.D. diameter as 1-1/2" EMT. The EMT does have a thinner wall then exhaust piping, but you can bend the exhaust pipe in the same electric conduit bender. At least for this size.
The problem with using EMT it has a galvanized finish on both inside and out which produces dangerous fumes when welding.
 
40ford said:
Sorry,I should have informed everyone that is not my car.I wish it was though.I can not remember where photo come from but I think it was a memeber on here.
Click to expand...


My mistake, you did mention that it was not your car.
It does however look like someone used EMT conduit. I have found 1-3/4" exhaust pipe is the same O.D. diameter as 1-1/2" EMT. The EMT does have a thinner wall then exhaust piping, but you can bend the exhaust pipe in the same electric conduit bender. At least for this size.
The problem with using EMT it has a galvanized finish on both inside and out which produces dangerous fumes when welding.
 
I had a similar experience on my 40 until I rectified that last year.
1. 2006 Stock manifolds, cross under engine and then again at crossmember under the U-joint. Voila dual exhaust.

2. 2021 - Speedway Fentons and Red's Fenton to muffler pipe. No go. Fentons hit the steering box and muffler job would not mess with it further.

3. 2021 - Reds 38-40 steel headers and muffler shop pipe out to tail pipe. No mufflers anymore. Looks and sounds great.

For Sale - Briefly installed pair of Fenton Cast iron headers and Reds adapter pipes, new. :)
 
solidaxle said:
My mistake, you did mention that it was not your car.
It does however look like someone used EMT conduit. I have found 1-3/4" exhaust pipe is the same O.D. diameter as 1-1/2" EMT. The EMT does have a thinner wall then exhaust piping, but you can bend the exhaust pipe in the same electric conduit bender. At least for this size.
The problem with using EMT it has a galvanized finish on both inside and out which produces dangerous fumes when welding.
Click to expand...

ssffnomad said:
Question. Should the Tailpipe be up higher to notch in cross member ?
And should the downward bend be behind the cross member/ axle farther back in car ?
Stretch
Click to expand...

I would say aluminumized exhaust pipe.
Also a very neat job with minimal bends, no it doesn’t follow the factory routing but does the job with the fewest bends.
Interesting note is the the mufflers are set farther back than where most people would mount them.
I’ve alway understood the farther back the muffler the quieter the sound. When you mount the mufflers as far forward as you can it will have more rasp and bark. Smaller id will be higher velocity and more bark to the sound. The larger pipe will be lazier deeper sound.
Ive read optimal set up is smaller pipe in front of the muffler to have high velocity hot gases as far as the muffler then increase in size after the muffler to help the gases exhaust the pipe as it cools and losses velocity.
There is a whole chapter on where and how to have a crossover pipe which I think most flathead owner would agree would ruin the flathead sound.
I like the sound of dual 1-3/4 pipes mufflers and I feel 2” duals is overkill for 100hp flathead and dulls the sound. IMHO
 
Talked to a flathead friend yesterday who advised that about a thousand left side rear dump exhaust manifolds were made for California police cars with flathead engines. This was so that they could be equipped with dual exhaust, to give them more power, to better catch the bad guys. Sid
 
sid carey said:
Talked to a flathead friend yesterday who advised that about a thousand left side rear dump exhaust manifolds were made for California police cars with flathead engines. This was so that they could be equipped with dual exhaust, to give them more power, to better catch the bad guys. Sid
Click to expand...

Not to critique your friend, Sid, but based on JWL's extensive dyno testing, duals on a flathead don't make much, if any, difference in horse power. (JWL posts here and has written an excellent book on the effects of many flathead modifications.)

In my case, I'm "hooked" on duals for flatheads and it's about looks and sound!! Have used both Fentons and Reds. (I may be a candidate for an intervention or a therapy group!!)

JMO.....Dick.
 
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