Oil pan, what am I missing?

RalphM

Well-known member
Getting ready to put the pan on, and nowhere in this gasket set is there anything to fill the rear main cap groove. Am I missing a gasket? And could I just fill it with RTV and make it work?
 

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There should be a length of cork/rubber material about 7" long and about 1/2" by 3/8" section.
This is fitted to the rear main cap.
I believe you should be fitting the gaskets/seals to the block rather than the pan.

When you fit the pan the bare edge you show pushes into the piece you apply to the rear main cap.
 
I might have to cut a section of cork then. Set did not come with it. Going to be hard to put gaskets on block as engine is in car.
 
Is the old one still on the main cap? It might still be serviceable. Not ideal, but an option. Gasket sets I have bought normally have the seal. It's just a straight piece, you might not recognise it as the right piece..
 
Here's a pic of the gasket I believe your after. An old one installed on the main cap... you can see the groove where the pan pushes into it.

487581
 

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Here's the dimensions of the gasket to help make one, from a fram gasket kit I've got on the shelf...

7 7/8" long (×) 7/16" wide (×) 1/4" thick
 

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No it’s not on the cap, I must’ve thrown it away or it fell apart.
You know that almost looks like the cork gasket for the torque tube caps. Maybe I got it mixed up with those.
 
Found this in my transmission gaskets. It’s a little over 11 inches long, and is a quarter inch thick and about .4 inches wide.
 

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Given the total pain in the butt of when there is a leak in this area, why not just order another pan gasket set and do it right?

Also, when you leak a bunch of oil in this area of the pan (and you have a manual transmission), you usually wet down and ruin the clutch disc . . . then you're spending even more money and a heck of a lot more time. Just trying to help yah! :D
 
There is also a impregnated rope type seal that goes in the front of the pan.

I am about to install the all the pan gaskets and the front rope seal. Does the front rope seal need any prep prior to install? Thanks.
 
Yes, it needs to be soaked in motor oil for at least a day . . . I'd probably go for 2. Same with the rear rope seal (if you're using this style).
 
I might have to cut a section of cork then. Set did not come with it. Going to be hard to put gaskets on block as engine is in car.


Ralph ...As far as putting gaskets on block with engine in car, smear the entire PAN RAIL (gasket surface) on the block with light film of wheel bearing grease. Carefully, apply gaskets to block surface. The grease will hold the gaskets in place if you use just enough (NOT too much) grease. Coop/AMERICAN

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hint for fitting sump take 6 bolts same thread as the pan bolts but longer remove the heads and install 3 per side this will hold the gasket in place untill you fit the pan bolts then remove them and fit the remaining pan bolts
 
When I bought a new "one-piece" pan gasket for my Corvette, it came with 4 plastic studs with slots in the end (for a screwdriver) and a "snap -thingy" (for want of a more technical term) on the side. These screwed into the pan bolt holes in the bottom of the block. Screw them in and simply push the pan (with gasket installed) up over the studs which depresses the "snap-thingy's" which then hold the pan in place so the rest of the bolts can be installed. Then using a screwdriver, remove the plastic studs and replace them with the regular pan bolts. Makes installing a pan with the engine in the car a snap and are even quite useful when the engine is not.

Why all of this verbiage for a Chevrolet part? Well, they use the same size pan bolts as a flathead Ford, and the plastic studs are robust enough to be used over and over. I have used my "Chevrolet studs" many more times installing flathead pans than the other.
 

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