Where did you install your switches?

DRG-ler

Senior Member
Hey guys, I'm in the process of developing an air vent for my Tudor using 3D printing, which blows the air from the heater fan onto the windscreen from the inside. This should be covered by the dashboard, but also takes up the entire space behind it. However, it is then no longer possible for me to install any switches or indicator lights in the dashboard.

Now I'm looking for alternatives where I could install these switches without it looking bad. But they should already be in the driver's field of vision. Where can you install them without them being a nuisance? The idea was above the windscreen, but you can't get the cables neatly laid there. I also had the idea of building a kind of round box around the steering column, but I'm not 100% convinced of that yet.

What other ideas do you have?

Regards Andy
 
I attached my switch for the fog lights to the underside of the gas tank. I used the strong magnets, glued to the switch.
 
I loosend up the gas tank, and slid a switch mounting under there. Then I tightened it back down. Put it on the passenger side. Not a switch i need to flip very often. I simply reach under there, and when I feel it I just flip it the other way.
 
How may switches? I needed just 1 for my turn signals so I removed the dash light
 

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Well, for me it will all be a little more. That's my problem. I want to wrap a wiring harness myself and retrofit some functions. Switches for heater fans, fog lights, heated rear windows and reversing lights are planned. I also want to add a knob with a switch for a hidden radio. There are also indicator lights for fog lights/rear lights, high beam and indicator lights.

That's quite a lot, and it should all be in the driver's field of vision. You don't see them in the kick panel. I also planned to hide the radio speakers in the kick panels. I would use the foot switch for the "headlight flasher".
 
I installed my phone charger ports on the seat riser panel, plenty of room for switches and they are out of sight/out of the way...
 
I killed two birds with the one stone. We all know about the problem of leaky fuel tanks and how a solution is to use one of the later steering support brackets. These are not available for RHD so I fabricate a bracket which incorporates the top half of the original bracket that I cut off from under the tank. I make it from 3 mm (18") sheet and shape it to hols a couple of gauges, switches and warning lights (like high beam, turn indicators, alternator warning light) They are right there in my view and easy to hook up by bringing wires and tubes up the steering column. On the cars where I am still using a Zenith carburettor, I put a hole for an extended (by about 6") choke rod to be in the same (ish) place as original. I paint the bracket the same colour as the dash and it looks like it belongs there, which it does.
 
We need a photo.

I killed two birds with the one stone. We all know about the problem of leaky fuel tanks and how a solution is to use one of the later steering support brackets. These are not available for RHD so I fabricate a bracket which incorporates the top half of the original bracket that I cut off from under the tank. I make it from 3 mm (18") sheet and shape it to hols a couple of gauges, switches and warning lights (like high beam, turn indicators, alternator warning light) They are right there in my view and easy to hook up by bringing wires and tubes up the steering column. On the cars where I am still using a Zenith carburettor, I put a hole for an extended (by about 6") choke rod to be in the same (ish) place as original. I paint the bracket the same colour as the dash and it looks like it belongs there, which it does.
 
We need a photo.
You wanted pictures.
First picture. I have spoken often here about our long trips with camper in tow. This is the rig (1929 Phaeton)
Second is the cast steering support that I made in that car with (L to R) Switch for driving lights, warning for driving lights on, an old watch for time keeping and under those is the controller for the electric brakes on the camper. The two lights up high in the middle are turn signals and charge light with choke under them (choke only with down draught carby) Temp gauge on the right. Oil pressure is under the speedo.
Third is a fully fabricated mount with (L to R) oil pressure, turn indicators and switch for driving light bar and choke underneath. Temp on the right in my 1930 CCPU
Fourth is the first one of these I did in my 1928 Tudor. My cast aluminium support again with turn indicators, charge light and choke
Last is my distressed farm Ute. It is supposed to look rough. On the left is temp, then high beam, then turn indicators and choke/GAV moved to the left of the steering column. I run a B carb on this and a 2 tooth steering box so I had to cut the intake manifold and turn the carb mount so that the intake faces the motor a bit. That meant the choke/GAV didn't line up so I moved it to the left and put a small universal joint in down near the floor. Out of sight to the right is another switch that connects the left and right hand turn signals together. If I turn on one indicator and that switch, I have hazard lights.

You got pictures!
 

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DRG, are you keeping the original gas tank? If not, cutting the bottom out can give you a ton of room.
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I know this won’t help the OP issue.
If anyone is looking for a position for a single switch, you can replace the lower driver’s side dash rail bolt with a switch. It was done on my 29. Tudor for a switch for a rear fender mounted parking light. A pull on switch looks decent in that position if the mounting nut is round.

The fender mounted parking light has a white toward facing lens and red rear facing lens so you use a single bulb for overnight parking and gave you a better chance of starting the car in the morning. Some towns back in the day required you to keep parking lights on at night when parked on the street
 
The fender mounted parking light has a white toward facing lens and red rear facing lens so you use a single bulb for overnight parking and gave you a better chance of starting the car in the morning. Some towns back in the day required you to keep parking lights on at night when parked on the street

Something like this?
 

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Something like this?

Chrysler used something very similar to that. (or is that from a Chrysler?) The requirement for a light on at night might even still be in some places. The last European car I owned had a system where once he ignition was turned off, the turn signal lever turned on the parking lights on one side of the car or the other.
 
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