Y Block Dampener install

1930artdeco

1930artdeco

Well-known member
OK, so I am onto the installation of my newly rebuilt dampener. I tapped the woodruff key, greased the snout of the crank and installed the pulley with a wood block. It went on fairly well for a bit then stopped. Now I know they are supposed to be easily installed but not supper tough either. What is the trick? Do I need to wail on it more? Do I need to tap the key down some more (probably will do that anyhow)?



I also assume that it should go in so the pulley will be flush with the snout where the bolt goes. Any help would be appreciated as I need to stuff the engine in two weeks.


Mike
 
Did you try to bring it in with the bolt? If that is too short (damper not on far enough) get a longer bolt.
 
paul2748 said:
Did you try to bring it in with the bolt? If that is too short (damper not on far enough) get a longer bolt.
Click to expand...
I wasn't sure how solid the crank thrust bearing was for pounding against so I found a longer bolt and nut. Then threaded that bolt into the crank after sliding a large-ish 1/2 inch drive socket and a short stack of washers on the bolt with the nut near the bolt head. Tightened down on the nut and it pushed the pulley on.

.
 
Last edited:
Lots of dampers have been installed with the BFH with no apparent ill effects. But if it’s all the same, I like to try and avoid banging on stuff like that. From my reading on the subject it is very important that the damper & crankshaft snout have a very close tolerance interference fit, it is designed that way. You could try polishing the snout with fine crocus as well as the inner damper mating surface, and use a light grease. It’s possible the production tolerances are stacked against you. There is an actual bearing installation tool. With a good quality unit it has always seemed to go pretty easy for me, if a little tedious.

I rented the tool for free at Auto Zone (or whoever it is that offers that service). Clean up the keyway and key itself, free of any burrs. Install the key deeply in the keyway, cocked at a slight angle from level. Apply a small amount of sealant around the key/keyway area to help prevent oil leaks.
 
Polishing the crank snout or honing the balancer bore is not what the factory had in mind. It's designed to be a tight fit and hammering it on can crack it in the keyway.

I learned on a 50's Cadillac engine, like an early SBC, they don't have a bolt holding the balancer on, they are a press fit. Heat the balancer to about 180 degrees in an oven. Put some mitts on your hands and one firm rap with a leather mallet and it's on. Under 200 degrees will not damage the seal or elastomer in the balancer
 
There are tools that are specifically designed to remove/install Y-block damper; Casco has them. When I sent my 55 Tbird damper to Damper Dudes to be rebuilt, they commented that it was in better shape than most of the dampers they receive. Why? I didn't use a BFH to remove it. I won't use a BFH to install it either.

Having the right tools for the job usually makes the job easier. Tools aren't cheap, but using the right tool might put you money ahead in the long run. The Tbird dampers are not the same as other Y-block dampers and cost considerably more to replace.
 
Last edited:
I always draw mine in with a longer,Grade 8, bolt and different washer(s) then near the end I install the final stock bolt.
 
Ok. longer bolt it is. I will also make sure that the key is correct height and smooth. Would a hand held torch just on the barrel portion heat it up enough for it to expand and then use the bolts to draw it in?

Thank you,

Mike

By the way what is CASCO?
 
A torch works, just be gentle. It's no different than using a rod heater instead of a press to install non floating wrist pins.
Pulling a balancer on with a bolt, if the crank is drilled, works better if you use a king pin thrust bearing along with the flat washer.
Just remember this, any balancer can crack in the keyway if the interference fit is too tight.
 
The keyway on those is a real tight fit in the keyway slot. If the key is slanted a little too much and the key isn't all the way down in the slot, the damper will bind up on the way down. I always liked to get the key slanted just a tiny bit so that the slot in the damper will clear the top of the key with ease, then force the key to straighten out as the damper goes down. I wouldn't use a hammer to bash the damper down. I always had a little bit longer bolt to get it started down, then I would take the bolt out and add bunches of oversized washers to drive it damper the rest of the way home. Be careful not to strip the threads inside the crankshaft.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top