Lamar Wadsworth
Senior Member
I've been told that there is a difference between '55 and '56 door latches and striker plates and that the '56 version is better. Is swapping them a bolt-in? Is there enough difference for it to be worth it?
'55 vs. '56 door latches & strikers
- Thread starter Lamar Wadsworth
- Start date
dmsfrr
Well-known member
'56 was the first year for the "Lifeguard" safety upgrade.
The '56+ striker plate on the door post has a screw-on mounting plate that is more likely to 'contain' the door star-wheel inside the striker plate assembly.
'55 style are on the car painted red.
The '56/'57 Lifeguard style latches are shown on the car painted pale yellow.
I do not know if they are a bolt-in swap.
.
The '56+ striker plate on the door post has a screw-on mounting plate that is more likely to 'contain' the door star-wheel inside the striker plate assembly.
'55 style are on the car painted red.
The '56/'57 Lifeguard style latches are shown on the car painted pale yellow.
I do not know if they are a bolt-in swap.
.
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Lamar Wadsworth
Senior Member
Thanks for the pictures of both for comparison. Looks like it should just be a matter of having the '56 striker plates to go with the '56 latches.
dmsfrr
Well-known member
The depth of the recess in the door post for the striker plate assembly.
(as close as I could measure on a partially curved surface. Both are T-birds)
'55 = 3/8 inch. '57 = 1/2 inch.
Overall length of the star wheel out from the door surface. '55 = 1/2 inch. '57 = 11/16 inch.
Thickness of the striker plate assembly, not including the shim behind it.
..'55 = 1/2 inch. '57 = 3/4 inch.
.
(as close as I could measure on a partially curved surface. Both are T-birds)
'55 = 3/8 inch. '57 = 1/2 inch.
Overall length of the star wheel out from the door surface. '55 = 1/2 inch. '57 = 11/16 inch.
Thickness of the striker plate assembly, not including the shim behind it.
..'55 = 1/2 inch. '57 = 3/4 inch.
.
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Daves55Sedan
Well-known member
The '55 and '56 full-size car bodies and doors are the same stamp. I'm not sure if the mounting holes are the same, but I have heard that some people have swapped their original '55 latches and striker plates for the '56 safety latches and strikers. At the worst, you might have to drill a new home for the latch mechanism but I doubt it.
you can't mix the '55 latch mechanism with a '56 striker and vice versa. If you make the switch, it has to be all '56 parts.
you can't mix the '55 latch mechanism with a '56 striker and vice versa. If you make the switch, it has to be all '56 parts.
Lamar Wadsworth
Senior Member
I'm going to try to find a good set of '56 latches and strikers since the latches are worn out on my '55 Fairlane Town Sedan.
miker98038
Well-known member
If anyone’s interested I can post a picture of a 55 door and a 56 door jamb, with a hand made adapter. It’s on my 55 bird. And the brazed on the right rear quarter 1/4” low at the tail light.
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Jwawhite
Well-known member
Have you seen the new Striker? It comes in two pieces....this does not include the lower cover with the two eyelits for the screws. This two piece Assy seems one can just order the two tooth catch only--- next time they need to replace it. This piece fits over a tube, one of the screw mounts.
Got it from Larrys T Birds last week.
Almost perfect adjustment on door, but striker cannot move backwards enough for a flush door.
Also do not push on the window to close the door with the interior escutcheon off, they break. Palm to face.
Got it from Larrys T Birds last week.
Almost perfect adjustment on door, but striker cannot move backwards enough for a flush door.
Also do not push on the window to close the door with the interior escutcheon off, they break. Palm to face.
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Patrick brophy
Senior Member
Dmsfrr,is the pale yellow 56/57 paint correct? Is that on a car or Tbird.
I am still in the pre paint stage and it would be nice to know.
dmsfrr
Well-known member
This may be way more info than you need to know? Since I'm not sure which aspect of the 'correct paint' question you're asking about. I'm assuming you're asking for your '57 Thunderbird.
Do you know the Color Code letter(s) on the Data Plate? Are you staying with that color, or going with something else? Two links...
https://www.ctci.org/decoder/
https://www.ctci.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/print03.jpg
The pale yellow car in my photos above is a '57 T-Bird, built 'late' in the model year, approx Nov. 20 of '57 (due to the '58 Birds not being ready for production).
The Build Date of your '57 may be helpful.
Some paint colors used on the late '57 Birds were actually '58 colors.
http://automotivemileposts.com/tbird/prod1957tbird.html
In the fourth photo, with the 3 screws and latch hardware mounted to the door...
the latch hardware should Not be over-painted with the pale yellow paint color of the door.
'56 Birds used a few different paint colors than '57, some were the same.
http://www.portholeauthority.com/thunderbirdETC/tbird/colors56.html
Both the '57 and *late* '57 T-Bird paint colors are shown at this link...
http://www.portholeauthority.com/thunderbirdETC/tbird/colors57.html
The '57 Bird in my two door-latch photos above has been several other colors and was repainted by the most recent previous owner in the pale yellow shown. It's lighter than the original color, was somewhat blotchy and got dust in it before it was fully dry. It's currently sanded down and primered... sitting in my garage until its repairs and paint job move farther along.
If you're looking for a particular color for a particular year of vehicle, I use the website at this link as a place to gather basic information before going down to the local automotive paint store.
https://paintref.com/paintref/index.shtml
> > > Be aware that some/most old paints were made with ingredients that are no longer legal to make & use. A new matching color may have to be re-created using 'modern' paint ingredients & formulas. In addition... there are now several different types & styles of paint and methods of application to achieve a final paint job. I won't even pretend know what they all are (base coat/clear coat, single stage, etc, etc.) but do ask about them and the benefits of each before you make up your mind.
Most good automotive paint suppliers have a 'color gun' that can read surviving original paint and create a new formula to try out for color matching.
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Patrick brophy
Senior Member
Sorry about the backwards manner of my first post above.
What I was referring to was your lower left hand photo that shows the two lock mechanisms on the door being painted.
The two sets that I have do not appear to have been painted.
The lower center photo shows that piece is not painted, nor is mine.
When I questioned if the paint was correct, I was referring to whether the two mechanisms were to be painted was correct, not the color. Sorry.
Yes ,I am working on a 1957 Thunderbird. This one was built 3/12/1957
dmsfrr
Well-known member
my thoughts runneth over
The door latch and striker plate hardware was plated, not painted, from the factory.
The color appearance of the latch hardware shown on the red door is slightly more correct.
But... the attaching screws shown painted red should actually be the same plated silver-ish color.
That car has been repainted as well, as evidenced by the slight amounts of overspray.
(photo below)
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Patrick brophy
Senior Member
my thoughts runneth over
The door latch and striker plate hardware was plated, not painted, from the factory.
The color appearance of the latch hardware shown on the red door is slightly more correct.
But... the attaching screws shown painted red should actually be the same plated silver-ish color.
That car has been repainted as well, as evidenced by the slight amounts of overspray.
(photo below)
Ah, that answered my questions. Many thanks.