29front fender brazed and rivits

Fat

Fat

Junior Member
Found this pic in my phone. Trying to see color of steering wheel, cant tell. Is the factory hole made for a spare?
More rivets and molded sickle bar? Its hard to see but was brazed long ago, I’m thinking I will braze that crack, maybe more rivets to sew up that crack?
 

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My father used to repair rust out holes and cracks by brazing, and years later I noticed the paint bubbling from the brazing flux trapped underneath the paint. Its best to weld the crack and include a reinforcement behind the bead. Adding brass by brazing just complicates a proper weld made by gas or MIG.
 
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The problem with brazing is it's not as strong as welding. This is a problem for sheet metal repair. As mentioned before, paint doesn't like to stick to uncleaned brazing repairs, and most people don't bother sandblasting it again afterward to get rid of it.
That particular spot on the fender likes to crack and has to be repaired right for it not to do it again.
 
The problem with brazing is it's not as strong as welding. This is a problem for sheet metal repair. As mentioned before, paint doesn't like to stick to uncleaned brazing repairs, and most people don't bother sandblasting it again afterward to get rid of it.
That particular spot on the fender likes to crack and has to be repaired right for it not to do it again.
 
Well I doubt you could make it worse. If nothing else available ….have at it!!
That’s what was done 50+ years ago!! I’ve un-done a lot of that
 
Thanks for info, it figures that my first idea would be not the best option.
I now understand how the spare tire holder works.
This past summer I had 220 ran in garage thinking I would buy a wire feed welder. I have a little more stuff to move to make a dedicated stall.
I will make more pics when ready to do anything to it and post here to get it done correct.
 
Brazing will not hold up to the vibrations. Weld it. Your picture shows a few rare items on the truck, that original side mirror is one and the spoke brake drum is a keeper, it's late 1931 and cast iron , not steel. Enjoy your "A". LRF
 
katy said:
I don't think that's a factory hole, the hole for a spare is on the vertical portion.
Click to expand...

My mistake, I see, looking in the JS's, that the 28-29 side mount bracket goes up through the splash apron and the 30-31 side mount bracket goes through the side of the splash apron. I never realized there was a difference.
 
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I only use brass when joining heavier reinforced structural parts together where it can take the heat. The heat it takes to properly melt brazing rod is too high for thin sheet steel. The brass isn't all that weak but the steel around it is compromised and therefore weakened from its normal state. I just weld it with RG45 soft steel filler rod and an aircraft torch when I weld thin sheet steel. If the joint is close enough, I often don't need any filler but the rod there helps to cool the weld so I always have it in hand. The key is patients. A person has to move around a panel and weld a bit at a time to minimize warping. A hammer & dolly can be used while hot most times to take the small amount of shrinkage out that comes with welding. RG45 flattens easily. ER70 wire is too hard.
 
I have a very old MECO that is known as aviator torch; no longer made.
It is very small with a small flame. I also have a smaller one I use to repair more fragile things. Works on 5 lb pressure
 
Any torch that is small and has tips that will go down to .2 to .5 mm or there abouts can be considered as an aircraft torch. A lot of thin wall chrome moly tube aircraft frame structures was welded up with those little torches before TIG systems were developed for common use. The Harris model 15, Victor model J-28, and Smiths versa torch are still available as far as I know. I use an old Victor that is a bit smaller than the J-28 for the real thin stuff.
 
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