Engine Installation Preference

Bob Bidonde

Bob Bidonde

Well-known member
Here's the scenario:
>Model "A" car with all 4 wheels on the garage floor;
>Front bumper, headlight bar & radiator off of the car;
>Hood off;
>Front floor boards off;
>Stock rear engine mounts in place;
>Clutch & brake pedals off;
>Accelerator assembly off:
>Gear shift off;
>Using engine hoist with a single hook;
>Single eye in a spark plug hole.
Do you prefer to install the engine with or without the transmission attached, and why?
 
I'm interested in responses here. My understanding from reading prior posts is that, with the ****** attached, you need some way to significantly pivot the front of the engine up as you extract it. That could be with a leveler or with additional ratchet straps.

I have a similar upcoming project; I was planning to extract with ****** attached and using a leveler.

Edit: I realize you meant installation – I think the same concerns apply, you have to point the ****** down and then level out the engine as it goes in.
 
I just recently installed my engine. Using a cherry picker style lift, I had a lifting device screwed into #2 and #4 spark plug holes but it lifted at a point near #3 spark plug hole. I installed with the transmission. However, I built a little "transmission crane" similar to Tom Wesenbergs, although a floor jack would have worked. I also used a frame spreader. I also equipped my cherry picker with a swiveling eye hook which allowed more flexibility in installing the engine. I had an engine leveller but it took up too much room to be of any use. I had a couple helpers which I recommend at least one other person. It helps to have a way to turn the engine slightly to encourage installation of the U-joint.
 
If there is no problem with the transmission I leave it in.

I have had poor luck with levelers and just use #3 spark plug hole which allows some tilt as needed.

It is doable alone but a helper makes it easier. 2 helpers maximum.

A frame spreader makes it much easier.

No beer till the job is done
 
if there is no transmission issues leave it in the car. save you some work.
pedals, shift tower can stay on. you will need to support the transmission, i use a ratchet strap to suspend the ******.
the rear engine mount is squeezed between the frame rails, the engine will come out and can be installed without spreading the frame but spreading the frame a tiny bit will help.
i have done a few with no spreader and it takes a bit of muscle.
 
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alexiskai said:
When you say it took up too much room, what do you mean?
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I can't answer for Bud but when I used my engine leveler I found it to be too long and hit the firewall. I ended up shortening it ~4" and lifting from #1 & #3 spark plug holes.

I installed it by myself which I would not recommend... :p :p

49698690433_cdffb6df4b.jpg
 
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I had a Harbor Freight leveler and it hit the firewall and was of no use because one needs to have the engine tilt up in the front when raising and lowering. I needed help in my case because my picker cylinder had a slow leak and I had to have someone on it every second. As I said, I had a transmission lift similar to Tom Wesenbergs inside the cowl and it worked really nice because it makes it a two-point pick.
 
Y-Blockhead said:
I can't answer for Bud but when I used my engine leveler I found it to be too long and hit the firewall. I ended up shortening it ~4" and lifting from #1 & #3 spark plug holes.
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I saw in another thread that you recommended a total length for the leveler of 14". I believe I can see a way to shorten the HF leveler to 14" without cutting and welding. I'll report back when I've had a chance to try it.
 
I installed the engine and transmission by myself using a Harbor Freight hoist and a couple of ratchet straps. Yes, it was fun
 
Do you prefer to install the engine with or without the transmission attached, and why?
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If'n the transmission is out I'd install both at once, otherwise...............
 
I had the same setup as the OP when I pulled my engine, except I thought I could get away with not completely disconnecting the throttle system from the rear of the engine (bad move). I used a harbor freight cherry picker and engine leveler that I needed to re-adjust chain position after my first pull attempt, otherwise, no problemo. I did it by myself. I did not pull the ****** with the engine as the extra length and mass increases the possibility of scratching some paint during the operation.
 
I have taken out & installed engines with and without the transmission. In my current situation, the transmission may have some of the poor quality needle bearings in it, so the transmission is coming out.

I can do this 2 ways, (1) pull the engine with the transmission attached or, (2) pull the transmission & clutch housing together after the engine is out. I am going to try (1) first, and fall back to (2) if necessary.
Thanks all for your replies.


 
My leveling bar is way too long too. I have yet to be able to use it successfully, without scratching the daylights out of anything. It's useless.
 
Gene F said:
My leveling bar is way too long too. I have yet to be able to use it successfully, without scratching the daylights out of anything. It's useless.
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Maybe you need to shorten it, sorta like Y-Blockhead shows in post #7.
 
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